Po Flo DIY Kit

MagicCat

Well-known member
Last year, I made a couple Kino-style fixtures using a kit available from a private aquarium supply company. Essentially, I made up two Diva-Light equals. However, I used a light weight aluminum case that breaks into two halves, each having two 55watt fixtures self contained within. Because they use very propriatary reflectors only available through this particular dealer, the light output is amazing. Considerably more than the Kino it was modeled after.

This week, I built a 96 watt version of this fixture from another kit available from the same dealer. This time, I built the case much differently. I used a piece of 5 inch PVC pipe, ripped it in half, mounted the 5 sided reflector within the trough or half moon shaped PVC, put some barn doors on it made from Coroplast (same material as those plastic Yard Signs you see during political season) and mounted the 32 inch by 5 inch PVC Chassis on a Lolipop style mounting bracket. Very similar to the Kino mounting system. Only mine came off a wheel chair leg and arm support system.

The results are wonderful!! It is sturdy enough that I could almost stand on the darn thing. Due to the 5 sided reflector design, the light output is a little more directional than fixtures using a parabolic reflector, and IMHO, is considerablly brighter than any other fixture in it's class and wattage rating.

I will eventually post some pics once I get it presentable. If you have a chop saw, a table saw, and a drill. You can make the basic chassis in about an hour.

The Reflector kit is available here http://www.ahsupply.com/96watt.htm Be shure to look at the 55 watt kits too. I use genuine Kino Lamps, however, I found the 96 watt 55k lamp he has there, to be Identical to the Osrams and Kino lamps. The fixture I made up is setup to be similar in performance and output to Kino's Vistabeam Single, Class of lights. It ran me 105 for the ballast, reflector all sockets and plugs, and the lamp.


Drawbacks?? The reflector shape actually does what they claim it to do. It is extremely bright, compared to anything else I have seen. It is intended to make the light hit the top of a fish tank with as straight down of an angle as possible, effectively cutting through the water rather than reflecting off of it. In Video Land this means a more direct beam is produced. However, because it is NOT a parabolic design, and 5 sided, it will produce very very small vertical shadows due to the creases in the polished aluminum reflector. This is not a big deal unless you decide to run it open faced, or open faced while outside where it may wiggle in the wind. I use some cloth diffusion material I found at Wallmart. It does not cut the light output by more than maybe a guestimated 1/4 stop.



Although my total costs were under 125 dollars complete, and I save hundreds if not thousands in creating similar quality and light output instruments as the big brand names. Remember, Time is money!! If you are not into all the trouble of making these, and dedictating yourself to working out tweaks, I strongly recommend just buying a fixture pre-assembled, RTG. These days you can get a quality fixture, with a good ballast and lamps for under 300 dollars that will compete with the best of them.


David
 
I'd love to see some pics too. I did something similar, but didn't buy the AH Supply kit. I had the bulbs and ballasts, so I just ordered reflectors from Richard at Cool Lights.
 
Here are some pics of the final design. It cost about 140 bucks total. Give or take ten bucks. It is very very rugged, Water Resistant and was brighter than my expectations. Im now making 5 more for our personal use. And, Im going to refit my 4 55watt Kits into ripped PVC. They are currently in square fixtures. The are almost half the length and awesome for spot fills.. I'm going to sell off all my pro softboxes and lowel softlights. These are MUCH more practical and 10 times more rugged than anything I have seen out there.

I used off the shelf aluminum screen framing for the barn door frames, a little bit of painted coroplast for the doors. The hinges were off the shelf hinges that had removable hinge pins. I stuck long threaded screws into the hinges and tightened them down with a nut, so the doors are stiff and dont flop around.

The holders are similar in design to the Kino Lollipop design, they came off of a wheelchair. I had extensions welded on and a socket for a 5/8ths light stand stud.

I don't have a picture of it, but, I actually stood on the fixture. Being that it is made from a 4 inch round piece of PVC, and a PVC End Cap ripped in half length-wise, it is extremely durable and pretty light.


By the way, that is not electrical tape on the barn doors, that is a very durable Vinyl tape normally used to repair rips in Tarps.


Enjoy!!
 

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I should also note, the 55k lamp in this came from AH Supply. It is a no-name. I have always used genuine Kinos because they made me feel warm and fuzzy inside. However, this lamp was the same price as the kino, so I decided to take a chance and buy it along ith the kit, and hope I would get something close in color temp and save on shipping. When it arrived I put it up against my Kino's and ran the video signal through a scope. It is basically identical in color temp. Dont be afraid to buy these lamps from AH if you buy a Bright KIt. It WILL match up ith your Kino and Osrams. Instead of buying the lamp seperately, I suggest you save a few bucks on shipping and order it along with the kit. It is safe and you wont be sorry.

I would like to re-iterate, the reflector on this light is unique. Due to the 5 sided design, it really does do as claimed and punch the light in a more uniform beam straight forward. However, it also tends to throw some very very faint shadows due to the creases runing lenghtwise. You will not see this running it open faced unless it wiggles or the wind blows it around a little. I use a tiny bit of tough spun diffusion on it, and it takes care of that problem.

Humbly, I think this reflector design is MUCH better than a smooth concave design. When I built my first versions, the light output from this was notably brighter in this, versus than the typical smooth concave design most manufacturers use. I tried several variations of the german made high polished chrome reflectors. (which this one is too, per AH's site) This was the brightest by far. I am NOT a technical engineer in the lighting industry, so I cannot back this claim up with any hard data. But as someone who uses this stuff day in and day out, like many of you, from years of production, I have gained the ability to percieve subtle differences in lighting and light output. This was a winner!!
 
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That turned out really great. Thanks for posting the pics. I always wondered how the AH Supply reflectors preformed. I built my 2x55 using the Cool Lights reflectors, but I might pick up some of the AH ones to compare.

Are you ballasts built into the housings?
 
I was all excited when I built my 2x55 fixtures,. However, now that I have this 96 watt, it really rocks!! I can always flag the light out if I don't need it, but, IMHO, it is quite a bit brighter than a pair of 55's.

I run my ballast externally in an aluminum box. The enclosure itself serves as an additional heat sync. (DONT BOX EM IN without air, or some sort of heat dissipation method!!! or they will shut down on you automatically from overheating)

Nice thing is, the ballast from AH that runs the 96, is the same ballast that runs the pair of 55's. You have to wire it a little different. However, with a little forethought put into the ballast box and connectors going to the fixture, it would not be hard to make it dual purpose. You would just use a proprietary connector of some sort, so you don't get the two confused when hooking them up out in the field. This way, you could build additional fixtures for one ballast for use as a twin 55's or a single 96 power supply, and go to war with the army you want, not the one you got. per-se.

I really want to build a Bar-Fly style fixture, but the guy at AH was unsure of how to wire up his ballasts, for a four tube- square 4 pin configuration. It would be really awsome if this ballast could do that as well, or at least a pair of Barflys. Those things are super handy for spot fills and close proximity lighting. I just cannot bring myself to spending the money Kino Want for them. Mercury glass filled tubes WILL be outdated in just a few years as LED Technology comes down in price and goes up in lumens.

I cannot justify buying any new manufactured lighting at this point in the game. The whole world of production lighting is changing drastically, and permanently. DIY or inexpensive Florescent lighting like Coolights are are a GREAT interim. Low watts, high output and you can practical use toilet paper for diffusion paper!!. (no more fires or blown fuses) Im sure a day is near when 20, 40, or even 100 watt individual LED's will become available. When that happens, I bet ALL the Hollywood books on HMI lighting and practical application will have to be completely re-written.

Between the introduction of multi-format Solid state Cameras, instant editing on a laptop, and LED lighting. It sure is an exciting time to be alive and in the industry!!!

David Walker

P.S. Just imagine: I just saw a 45 watt, 1,200 dollar LED Par can that could throw a usable beam over 40 feet!!!. It was for stage and theater. If the color were right, it could have easily replaced any 500 watt Fresnel lamp out there. Maybe even replace a 100 or 200 watt HMI, if used in close proximity.... And this is just the beginning!!.
 
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THose look like they could be really really heavy. Not though? Can you post up some sample footage lit with those?
 
Yes, I will try to post some pics later this weekend. I will also attempt to weigh them. I do not mount the ballast on the light, that keeps them MUCH lighter. Beleive it or not, they are not very heavy. I suppose you could get a hole saw and start drilling 1 or 2 inch holes in the PVC to lighten it up even more. The exchange would be a loss of structural integrity.

I will say this. I have mounted this on a light weight lowell aluminum light stand without the mandatory need to sandbag it. Not recommended though. I too, was concerned about the weight of the PVC, but in the end, my concerns were not well founded.

I guess it all depends on what you consider light and heavy. Keep in mind, even the 55 watt version has much better output than a Diva Light. The Diva's suffer from the lack of an effecient reflector. Not to mention, the Kino Design will not take much abuse and MUST be put in a case if you want to keep them functional and looking good. To me, that is just more stuff to drag around..

If someone wants to really duplicate the Kino Design, you can always buy some 8 or 10mm coroplast. At 40 bucks for a 4'x8' sheet, It would probably even be cheaper to make than this PVC version!!

The most difficult thing to emulate in the Kino DIVA design ate the hinges. That is some kind of small mic goose-neck type material. I could not find anything suitable for DIY processes. As far as the bells and whistles on Kino's: Dimming can be done on DIY kits with 6 dollar ND gells. DMX control is cool, but never even used by the average user.

Ive seen what the Kino's look like in a rental shop after a year of usuage, that is why I started looking at another design. That is ONLY my opinion. Im sure others may disagree.

Keep in mind, I also am building 6-96 watt lights, and two dual 55 watters, for a aobut the same, or less, than it costs for a pair of 55 watt Divas. That includes 55 and 32k lamps for all fixtures.

Again, The kino Diva's do not have the same light output either due to the lack of an efficient reflector.

David
 
Cool
A few years ago I had built a unit using an AH Supply dual 55w unit and Coroplast I really liked. Had to swap out the wiring harness and hardware for the tubes as I didn't need waterproofing it ran a bit warm, and wanted to lighten the unit for travel. It's been in storage for the last couple of years along with other stuff from years gone by.
Nothing is worse than getting back from a tough job and finding that American Airlines has managed to smash all of the Kino tubes in the Diva on the same flight. But using PVC for a single or double 96w is a great travel solution that would work well with swapping out the harness and hardware. I especially liked the shape of those compact electronic ballasts from AH.
BTW, the Kino tubes I believe have a spike in the blue frequency and may yield a quality slightly off color when not used with their ballasts. I actually preferred the quality of light output by the Osram tubes to that of the Kinos. They have a great CRI and read out perfectly on my Minolta color meter.
 
I've purchased several of the AH Supply kits, and have them in my studio (I'll take pic's and post). I made up fixtures with 2x55 and 4x96 - the 4x96's are pretty bright...



G.
 
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Great find. :)

Can you share some actual shots that were used with this light?

Also, do you have any photo metrics for it? I'd love to know the foot candle reading at 3' 6' 12' 18' & 24'. Or at the very least, the incident reading at ISO 320 at 12' ....
 
Here are some screen grabs from footage shot this weekend. No CC yet, still working on post.

Shots and info on how I put mine together in another upcoming post.
 

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Thanks for sharing. Any chance on getting some photometrics?

I'm looking forward to seeing how you put yours together. Are the units something that you can easily hang on a regular light stand (Baby stand), or is something like a C-Stand or larger required?

One last question- has anyone tried any off speed filming- either high or low speed / frame rates? Is there any flicker with these lights?
 
Bump on Ryan's request on the photometrics, and potentially any video shot with these lights as the key, fill, etc. David, do you have video showing the reflector creases, and pics of the diffuser material from Walmart you bought and how you mounted it?
 
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