C100: Please Explain the EF-S Setting
- Thread starter mhood
- Start date
Stephen Mick
Totally Usable
Basically, from what I can see, the C100 does a very, very slight "push-in" on the sensor to accommodate EF-S lenses. It didn't seem to me eye to be enough of a "zoom" to really affect picture quality all that much, but I'd need to do more testing to be sure.
I'm also not entirely sure that ALL EF-S lenses need to have this enabled to work. Others have reported using the Tokina 11-16 without the EF-S mode enabled, without any issues.
I'm also not entirely sure that ALL EF-S lenses need to have this enabled to work. Others have reported using the Tokina 11-16 without the EF-S mode enabled, without any issues.
The EF-S 17-55 2.8 is fine without the EF-S enabled.
However you need to be careful when the IS (image stabilization) is turned on -- if you make sudden movements with the camera,
the optical elements will shift enough that you will see vignetting in the corners.
I uploaded a sample which demonstrates this:
http://www.palsomedia.com/c100/
File: C100_1755_IS_On.MTS
The lens was zoomed at the 35mm setting.
Edit: This was tested without any hood on the lens.
J Davis
Veteran
for c300 no issues, therefore should be same with c100
+1 this is my c300 ( and c100) go to lens
Eric Coughlin
Veteran
I read on one of these topics that someone had mapped the EF-S option to a button. How do I do that? In the custom button area I can't find EF-S as an option to map.
Curnsie
Well-known member
I have Version 2 of this lens and i haven't had to use the EF-S switch yet.
If it's simply a digital push in, I think the most sensible operation would be to leave the EF-S mode off, and if a stabilised lens (such as the 17-55mm f2.8 IS) then vignettes in a fast pan due to IS, then you just crop it out yourself in post - just the one shot that needs it.
Right?
Or does the digital push-in of the EF-S mode somehow come before the 4K sensor is downsampled to 1080p, resulting in a superior (effective/real) resolution than you would get with a simple crop in the NLE on your computer?
If there is such a thing as a EF-S lens that clearly vignettes, then you just use the EF-S of course. Just haven't heard about such a lens yet.
Right?
Or does the digital push-in of the EF-S mode somehow come before the 4K sensor is downsampled to 1080p, resulting in a superior (effective/real) resolution than you would get with a simple crop in the NLE on your computer?
If there is such a thing as a EF-S lens that clearly vignettes, then you just use the EF-S of course. Just haven't heard about such a lens yet.
Eric Coughlin
Veteran
With the Tokina 11-16, at 11-13 I get the lens hood in my shot, only on the left side of the shot, for some reason. With EF-S on, I get the lens hood in my shot at 11-12.5. I never got that when shooting with my 60D with the 1.6x crop. The solution of course was to remove the lens hood, though I like using them mainly to protect the lens, and also to help with glare.
MattDavis
Well-known member
A propos the 18-135 STM, definitely getting a bit of vignetting on the wide end. Also getting some extra vignetting with Stabiliser switched on:
If I just switch on the EF-S (zoomed in) setting, there's not enough to clear the vignetting:
So, in the next picture, I turned on Peripheral Illumination Correction - which has much more of an impact, but there's a little bit of a dark patch in each corner (and this can be seen when the stabilizer is working overtime):
In conclusion, the 18-135 STM seems to need BOTH the EF-S setting (to hide the IS) AND the Peripheral Illumination Corrector (to compensate for fall-off):
I've got both dialled in to my 'My Menu' setting now. ;-)
If I just switch on the EF-S (zoomed in) setting, there's not enough to clear the vignetting:
So, in the next picture, I turned on Peripheral Illumination Correction - which has much more of an impact, but there's a little bit of a dark patch in each corner (and this can be seen when the stabilizer is working overtime):
In conclusion, the 18-135 STM seems to need BOTH the EF-S setting (to hide the IS) AND the Peripheral Illumination Corrector (to compensate for fall-off):
I've got both dialled in to my 'My Menu' setting now. ;-)
Last edited:
anatusa
Veteran
i am sorry , maybe there is something that i dont understand , but you CANT enable EFs mode for non Canon lenses , as tokina is a non canon lens then HOW do u enable efs mode for it? so what are u talking about?
anatusa
Veteran
for example my Canon EFs 17-85mm f/4-5.6 - i clearly see BLACK corners, but after i enable EFs mode , i still see black corners but much less!
Eric Coughlin
Veteran
You can enable EF-S mode on any lens (or even without a lens) including non-EF-S lenses by turning the setting on. As far as I know, all it does is slightly crop the image, so if a lens is giving vignetting, or any other reason you'd want the image slightly cropped, then you can turn the setting on. Sometimes I'll have it enabled for the Tokina 11-16, and then when switching to my full-frame lenses, I'll forget to turn it off.
anatusa
Veteran
you r absolutely right, u really can enable it for non canon lenses.... i did not know it.... i just tried it on my tokina 50-135 f/2.8! there is no needs for it as i did not notice any vignetting, but again i noticed that after efs is on i get image a little brighter .... i wonder if anyone also see it, and i wonder why?