Panasonic unveiled G1-HD...

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thank you kholi. i really think some people are trying to depend on these camera's to produce great looking shots using natural light and it's not going to happen. a 2.8 on a gh1, d90 is like a 1.4 for a 35mm adapter.
 
PaPa said:
Since when do we use lighting in filmmaking?
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since when does lighting necessarily mean higher light levels? lighting is mainly about shaping the light, and even if you wanted to you rarely have the wattage to light a large night scene to a higher stop than maybe 2.8, and even if you did you wouldn't be able to change all the natural city lights in the background and they would get undererexposed.

/matt
 
Matt, it was a joke lol.

There are many, like me, who are looking to use DSLR's to replace video cameras with adapters due to the light loss. When you're going from a video camera at 320 ASA, and then slapping an adapter and lens on there, bringing it down to the 80 ASA range, one of the ideas of using a DSLR to replace the video camrea would be to gain some of that light loss back.

So, for users like myself, who have access to lights of 1k and under, low light sensitivity is a must. Hence, faster lenses are also a must.
 
PaPa said:
Matt, it was a joke
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Obviously, but it's still something that has to be discussed. Low light doesn't mean no light, both people who don't light and people who think wattage is everything seem to miss this. Anything slower than maybe 500 asa is a pain to light for, and if your lens is f/4 as well it's disaster.
 
for sure. Now i've had no problems lighting scenes that are within a 20 foot by 20 room, but when you start going wider than that, without renting some serious hmi's, you need those few extra stops!
 
mattsand said:
since when does lighting necessarily mean higher light levels? lighting is mainly about shaping the light, and even if you wanted to you rarely have the wattage to light a large night scene to a higher stop than maybe 2.8, and even if you did you wouldn't be able to change all the natural city lights in the background and they would get undererexposed.

/matt
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Exactly. It's about getting contrast and modeling within your composition. Getting proper exposure is easy as hell. And it's even easier than 35mm Adapter setups with these vdslrs. I hated having to be so directional with light on elements just to pull detail out.

And for those people who actually care about bokeh, using faster glass outside = unpleasant bokeh in general.

Slower glass is often VERY aesthetically pleasing outdoors in natural light wide open. Go try a zoom at 50/3.4~4 outside and tell me how great the bokeh looks in comparison to your Speedy 50/1.4 (cause everyone has one of these).

I've got a 28-70/3.4~5.6 Zeiss Contax zoom and I absolutely love it on exteriors. That's another reason why I want to get the GH-1, ability to use my Contax glass.
 
I totally agree with you on that. I use both a 35mm and a 70-300 zoom on my VDSLR with outdoor shoots and the bokeh is very nice.
 
for me, nothing beats the bokeh that the D90 and the SGpro deliver at wide open. The perfect circular bokeh is amazing to my eyes. the hexagonal/ pentagonal / etc, is also nice, but love those circles.
 
How do you expect to get that with a fast lens outdoors? Or even indoors daylight?

To do that you'd be stacking NDs like crazy. I'd suspect a .6 and 1.2 out in broad daylight to remain wide open.
 
In broad daylight @ 320 ISO it takes a 1.2+ And a T-Stop 2.8~4 split to achieve somewhere around an even exposure.

I've got complete shooting days on an IR ND 1.2 + Classic Soft 1 (about a stop of light chopped there) and still had to rock T-stop of about 4 to avoid over exposure.


That's because I didn't have enough room to jam in another .3 or .6 in the MB20, my fault.

"Slow" lenses have their places. Especially zooms. The more glass you shoot through the softer the image gets.
 
mattsand said:
not with an f/4 outdoors at night, and not with an adapter even at f/1.4.

/matt
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A) Yes it is. People are just afraid to use gain, and in the case of a VDSLR, ISO.

B) Yes it is. People are just afraid to use gain, and in the case of a VDSLR, ISO.

It's very easy to do, just certain people telling others that it's not is what discourages experimentation and discovery.
 
That's not what we're discussing at all. We're discussing the validity of slower lenses.

And I'm no longer discussing ANYTHING with YOU because you're just out to stir the shiet. No thanks.
 
*you* replied to *my* post. in that instant what i was discussing became what you're discussing too. and if you've missed that the last few pages of this thread have been about low light performance i don't know how to help you. the very reason f-stops were even brought up was because of the low light performance problem.

EDIT: everybody knows that you can gain up, if you think you need to teach us that i must say i find it a bit arrogant.

/matt
 
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Kholi said:
How do you expect to get that with a fast lens outdoors? Or even indoors daylight?

To do that you'd be stacking NDs like crazy. I'd suspect a .6 and 1.2 out in broad daylight to remain wide open.
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ND's, exactly :) I control my exposure for depth of field first, and then adjust with ND's.
p.s., lets be nice folks.
 
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