AC160 Panasonic Ag AC-90

L

Lou Bruno

Well-known member
I just received the new AG AC-90 today from B&H PHOTO. This is ONLY a preliminary evaluation/review of the camera. Since we are getting hit with a second storm here in the Northeast and recovering from the Super Storm, I had some time to get a feel of this new camera. Most likely a new forum area will be started for the AC-90.


.WIDE-ANGLE: Seems wide enough BUT I will be purchasing the Panasonic Wide Angle made for this camera for GLIDECAM work when introduced in the USA.

.I know the first question will be from my colleagues who own the 130/160 as I do. The bottom line is that this camera is NOT a AG AC-130/160(A) by any means but the picture quality is not diminished with proper lighting. Unfortunetly, this is a very dreary day and I could do nothing but "shoot' some clips out a snowy window.

.I will "CUT TO THE CHASE" and am happy to inform all that the AUTO FOCUS is right on target. I even designated a USER button on the camera as a TURBO FOCUS BUTTON, as I am a manual shooter. This focus is faster than the instant focus used in my SONY G-10 HD camera.

.CAUTION: There is a pull-out LCD monitor which is 3.5 inches. The preview monitor is easy to pull out but CAUTION, CAUTION,CAUTION.........DO NOT push the monitor BACK with the palm of your hand. Use your two forefingers to lightly push the slide-in monitor back into place. If not, I see the 'handwriting on the wall' that Panasonic repair will see these units in the shop for repairs.

.NOTE: The Lens cap is pretty cheesy and doesn't seem to attach with a "clicK' as do other Panny cameras I own.


.NOTE: It is VERY important to read the Manual. The menu is not that intuitive but took me about 2 hours to really figure the ins and outs. It is essential to STUDY the manual. I can't wait for Barry Green's book which is available via mailing out an enclosed card.

.HINT: The menu is navigated by a touch screen. Don't attempt adjusting the menu screen after eating a greasy chicken leg :-) I discovered that the enclosed REMOTE actually emulates the external button of the 130/160(A) and I used that method to adjust the menu.

.HINT: If you are A 130/160 OWNER like myself, it is essential to copy (handwritten) on a piece of paper your current favorite SCENES. There is NO WAY to transfer your current scene files to this camera. So, I wrote down my favorites and entered them into the AC-90 via the CAMERA SETTING menu. SADLY, there is no way I can discover, to actually NAME each scene in the AC-90. SO, I wrote down the names of the scene files on a postie. Of course, there are default settings that are the same as the Scene Files in the 130/160(A) but, again, no designated file name such as "SPARKLE",etc.

.Intelligent AUTO: This feature is just short of remarkable. I have been a videographer since 1982 and do not use auto-functions, but this amazed me. Since I use the HD4000 Glidecam, this setting will be a godsend.

.STABILIZER: OK.... this is NOT a Steadycam or Glidecam etc. type of stabilizer....BUT.......it is awfully darn good and BETTER to me than a recent test with the new SONY. One must keep the camera in wideangle if there is any type of walking. However, this is the best stabilizer I have used for handheld shooting. I did notice when the I-Zoom was used, once the I-Zoom was in place and at the 25X mark, the stabilizer is not as good. A mono-pod or tripod will be needed as the angle of view is not that of the 130/160(A). For edification, I-Zoom allows a 25X magnification w/o degradation. I really did not test this at this time. However, the 12X optical worked well as stated-with the stabilizer setting.


.Playing back clips, both still and video are easy using the rear "PLAY" switch. DELETING clips is a bit of a challenge, so it is necessary to read the manual. The ZOOM/ROCKER actually changes the clip display from single to multiple. Who would have thought that! There are several functions that require changing menu settings and one can pre-study the VOLUME 2 manual on-line.

.ND filter: Cloudy and snowy....could not test. However, it is my opinion, that high contrast lighting will probably use an external ND filter. I currently have a clear filter that screwed int the non-removable lens hood....YES....non-removable.

.LOW LIGHT: The GAIN 'kicks-in" once the IRIS passes the "OPEN" display. In lowlight the gain went to 20db (can go higher plus AGC) and I did not notice any grain issues on my download. However, it appears at the higher gain, the picture is soft albeit a pleasant soft. For me. lowlight is not an issue as I would alway use lighting anyway. For others, Panasonic did a nice job here with the 1/4.7 chips.


In closing, the camera is a little brother to the 130/160(a) in every respect. I like the balance and feel of the camera and fits well on my shoulder mount. Handheld.... there is no fatigue. Of course, there is lots to discover and more testing of the actual picture quality.
 
Thanks for the feedback Lou, keep us updated please- user testing is all that matters! It sounds like a nice candidate for my steadicam pilot rig.
Cheers!
Rod
 
So Lou, you are planning to use a shoulder mount with it, despite its small size? When you post a video of you using it, it would be interesting if you could let us see what your shoulder mount setup looks like.

I also own a Canon HF G10, so I was most interested in your comments comparing it to the performance of the G10. The "Instant Focus" on the G10 is excellent in my opinion. It has worked very reliably for me. So if you are saying that the autofocus on the AC90 works just as well, that is a big compliment in my opinion.

Regarding image stabilization, I always use the POWER IS option on the HF G10, which is Canon's maximum IS option on that camcorder. I'm very happy with how well that option performs. Are you saying that image stabilization on the AC90 even beats the Power IS option on the G10? If so, that is yet another impressive achievement.

The Autofocus and IS are so superior on my G10 compared to my Panasonic AC130, that I gave up on any idea of using my AC130 in handheld event situations. That plus the fact that I also found the AC130 just a bit too large and bulky for comfortable hand holding. So I've strictly stuck with using it on a tripod, where it has performed very well for me.

Do take your time in filming any tests. Good luck with your new camcorder!!
 
I wouldn't mind seeing a shoulder rig on the AC-90..I would think that the forward mounted LCD would give the camera a much better centre of balance...I have a pic below of my wife using the AC-130 on my rig and because the LCD is in the middle you have an awful lot of camera too far forward!! The AC-130 rig certainly worked but I did need the grip handles under the rails to hold it successfully as you cannot grab the LCD assembly like you would a shoulder mount EVF

Chris
 

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Just got back from talking with a Panny Rep -- seems like the AC90 time date location on the screen is nearly in the middle of the image making it a worthless camera to me. Unless they fix it like they did with the 130/160.
 
Agree middle is no place for court recordings or anything,for that matter, where you happen to want the date/time
 
I can't record the time stamp. Did he state how it is done. It is not in the instructions either.


ELN614 said:
Just got back from talking with a Panny Rep -- seems like the AC90 time date location on the screen is nearly in the middle of the image making it a worthless camera to me. Unless they fix it like they did with the 130/160.
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SpiderBrace.

SpiderBrace.

Below you will see the SpiderBrace I am using with the Panasonic AG AC-90
 

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Lou, go under "other" functions and scroll down to the time date and say yes. then go to "display" section of the menu and select time and date and it should pop up and have a red R with a square around it.

PS what little I did with the touch screen I am not a fan of it. the second your finger touches it--- something pops up. side note: not sure if there is a way to lock it so your touching won't do anything. Also I assume as much card reformatting I do it will be covered with fingerprints and what ever natural oils or junk what was on my hands at that time of touching. Touch screen does not seem like an ideal way to make a professional camera... seems more like a way to cut costs.
 
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Lou Bruno said:
Below is a very short and unscientific test of the Focus, Stabilizer and Lowlight capabilities:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tw7Eac8c-W4&feature=youtu.be
Click to expand...

Thanks for the interesting tests. You didn’t say if the stabilization test was hand held or with your stabilizer. I am assuming it was hand held and if so it is almost a stabilizer look. If not it is hard to say because it seems you were trudging through the snow. I am concerned, but it may well be You Tube compression how there was I think pixelization or something (black stripes) of the trees and other objects when you were going by and also on the little figurines in the macro focus test. I am uploading my screen captures from the 1080p setting but they are being recompresed and not getting my point across. Its not motion blur because it should be softer not with the black lines. The stabilizer test at 12x was very solid. I would use that for production without question. Macro focus test was awesome. The DOF was very nice and surprising. Low light tests looked very good to me, blacks stayed black and very little noise. I am really surprised on the lack of grain at 30db lowlight. I am posting this on You Tube also.
fvdshot-11.8.2012-7-42-33 PM.jpg

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Hi Lou

Thanks for the spiderbrace pic...how does the camera feel on your shoulder with the LCD far forward?? I'm sure it will sit a lot better and not be too front heavy like the 130 on a rig. I was a little worried that the handles might be too close to your body but it's an easy job to extend a DIY mount and have the handles a little more forward so your arms are not too cramped up. A rig will be a cinch for this camera and for those looking in this direction make sure you add handles...the LCD/loupe is way too flimsy to use as a hand hold so the handles are essential!! I found on the 130 that the LCD rotated downward with the weight of the loupe on the 130 ... does it sit pretty much where you leave it, to reduce weight on the LCD I scrapped the rubber extender on the Hoodman and replaced it with a foam board box..less weight on the LCD.

From your other pic it looks like you have a flycam sled under the camera there??? Is that a 5000? Is the camera weight enough for balance ?? I have a 5500 sled with 5500 arm and front mount vest but could always add top weight or leave the rig mounted to the camera.

It's nice at this stage to see everyone with positive results and no whines!! Anyone tried the audio level control as yet, I'm hoping that with the XLR's in auto it doesn't clip the audio signal at the top only like the 130/160.

Thanks to all the testers and their efforts .. Wow I think we need an AC-90 forum on it's own soon!!!

ELN614?? I think you can access all the menu fuctions with the remote?? That would be great as I hate touch screens...To be able to format cards/change record format via remote would be perfect and the LCD would stay clean!!

Chris
 
Yes...the picture quality took a "hit" during the upload process to YOU TUBE plus I made the UPLOAD file an AVI file for faster rendering which has something to do with it. This camera looks awesome at 0 db with outdoor light and hard to tell a difference between the quality of the AC-90 and my AC-130 at that point. As far as the stabilizer: I was walking in 6 inches of snow and even slipping at times while walking and the stabilizer held up fairly well. It can't replace my Glidecams but looks good for 'run and gun' applications. I was also amazed that the blacks remained black w/o that real grey and grainy electronic noise-albeit a soft picture due to the noise reduction I assume. Heck....30db Wow!!! Again, the focus is excellent, even with contrast-unlike my AC-130. The actual form factor of the camera makes it VERY easy to hold. As more people receive the camera, others will have to make their own evaluation for their specific application. This camera is somewhere between a consumer camera and a lower-end Prosumer camera in my opinion.

steve4505 said:
Thanks for the interesting tests. You didn’t say if the stabilization test was hand held or with your stabilizer. I am assuming it was hand held and if so it is almost a stabilizer look. If not it is hard to say because it seems you were trudging through the snow. I am concerned, but it may well be You Tube compression how there was I think pixelization or something (black stripes) of the trees and other objects when you were going by and also on the little figurines in the macro focus test. I am uploading my screen captures from the 1080p setting but they are being recompresed and not getting my point across. Its not motion blur because it should be softer not with the black lines. The stabilizer test at 12x was very solid. I would use that for production without question. Macro focus test was awesome. The DOF was very nice and surprising. Low light tests looked very good to me, blacks stayed black and very little noise. I am really surprised on the lack of grain at 30db lowlight. I am posting this on You Tube also.
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The camera sits on my Spiderbrace( pictured) like a glove. I actually have another Spiderbrace w/o the dual handle and the camera sits good. The camera is very balanced by virtue of the weight and size. The camera does not push forward or fatigue the arms when using the brace and the Hoodman LCD magnifier fits snug, right to the eye. I balanced the camera on my HD4000 Glidecam but I am going BACK to the SONY G-10 on the Glidecam as I don't want to wear the arm brace, which I would need with any heavier camera. But at least , I now have the capability of using this camera on my Glidecam as my Ac-130 IS MUCH TOO HEAVY for me to use w/o a full-blown vest. Another good feature of the camera is the Intelligent Auto which will work well for SteadyCam type rigs. I do recommend a wide angle which has not been released as of yet.

Another CAUTION: DO NOT over-tighten any filters placed over the lens. The hood does not come off thus the user can not use the PALM method to untighten a stuck filter. Luckily, I was able to loosen my protective filter. I just purchased different ND filters as well.
 
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