David W. Jones
Veteran
I'm more of a Mole guy than an Arri guy when it comes to tungsten lights.
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I'm more of a Mole guy than an Arri guy when it comes to tungsten lights.
There are a couple of techniques that I've done for stills, and read about for film. The 'traditional' expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights, I think has movie making equivalents. What may be different for movie making is the 'flatter' negative, but that was also due to using various interneg/positives in the process from shot negative to projection print.
The other one is 'preflashing' to get a little more 'density' in the shadows, even if it was essentially 'fogging' the film...
When we first went digital the 'best' advice we got was to 'think you are shooting slide film', that is shoot for the highlights, and either let the shadows fall where they may, or boost shadows to lessen contrast. Increase in dynamic range has improved things, but still there's no equivalent of 'develop for the highlights', other than perhaps using some sort of fancy camera that has a 'raw' mode... not available in my price bracket for 'motion pictures'... in any case...
In terms of film stocks, as I recall Panatomic-X had a pretty contrasty curve, and even Plus-X was not all that 'wide'.
The only time we used anything greater than 400, B&W rated at 200, was for interior church shots, when there was absolutely no way to get lights on the wedding, and definitely no 'flash' during the ceremony anyway... (we would use the manfacturer's ISO for color, because we could not really get good results by changing the developing times for color. On the other hand, after doing hand developed B&W we got the B&W lab we ended up with to 'special' process our film based on the use of the 200 rating.)
The greater sensitivity of sensors may mean that you need less illumination to get a good exposure, but it doesn’t change one simple fact: the sun is really really bright. Because it generates approximately 70’000 FC, when shooting interiors with windows or exteriors in full sun you still have a contrast problem because the sensors can’t take in the full contrast range. In the case of windows you still have to cover them with ND gel. But, where a roll of 85/ND9 gel can set you back $140.00, it is expensive and time consuming to gel windows if there are a lot of them. Without gelling the windows to 3200K, using smaller quartz lights won’t even begin to narrow the contrast range inside or out because full color temperature blue correction gel (Full CTB) cuts the output of the light by 70% in converting it to 5500K. A 1000W 3200K light becomes a 300W 5500K light when you put Full CTB on it. The output you get after correction is not nearly enough to balance the sunlight coming through a window. For example an Arri 1k Fresnel at full flood puts out only 55 FC after correction with full CTB to 5000K – that’s not nearly enough to fill direct sunlight.
It doesn’t matter how sensitive the chips are, if you can’t gel the windows you probably need at least a 6k HMI par to pick up interior levels to within one or two stops of the exterior level seen through the windows. And, you still have the problem of powering such a large light. So things haven’t changed that much when it comes to lighting day interiors and exteriors. One advance that does help, but has nothing to do with camera sensors, is Arri introduction of their Max reflector to the 4kw power class. Basically a par without lenses, the Arri M40 has the output of a 6kw Par and if you know how you can run them off of regular wall outlets and Honda generators (see http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthrea...sun-as-a-rim-light-outdoor-lighting-technique for details.) In my experience the new sensors make it easier to light night scenes, but haven’t changed my approach to day interiors and exteriors much.
Peter Berger
Berger Films


David, what are you talking about?
This kind of naturalistic lighting was going on for god knows how long... Like since the 70s? Not that it doesn't work - if anything it gives the film "credibility": because it looks like reality show... But there ARE ways to give a film credibility without having to compromise the lighting. Think of The Insider - found framing, playing with overexposure in the frame - all the tricks to give the film sense of a documentary (that as we all know have to deal with found lighting, funky framing, crap staging, overexposed parts of the frame). This doc-like approach isn't new or the result of more light sensitive cameras.