Notes from a LOT of testing hmc150

arrestthisman

Well-known member
Hey all, I just spend a couple of days with my camera hooked up to a 50" plasma, and a gamma corrected 17" LCD.

I had been pixel peeping with the camera recently, and through it produces a wonderful picture at a proper viewing distance... It's a bit of an obsession, I like my footage to look as good as it can with my nose to the monitor.

So the following are my observations in case it helps anyone else! If not, this post will get buried, but I found some odd things out, so I felt it would be wrong not to at least put the findings out there for people to try (if they haven't already). Remember to keep in mind that these are MY findings, with my eye. You may not see the same results, and none of this is purported as fact, only what I saw.


First off, I was unhappy with compression noise, and didn't find 720p to be much better. This was for locked down shots, no movement. And I find 1080p to be distinctly more detailed than 720p. On the plasma, I noticed excessive sharpening (and many artifacts as a result) via uncompressed HDMI. When I turned sharpening down on the TV, it helped, but not greatly. I went back to cable HDTV (the Dark Knight was playing on HBO), and it was MUCH cleaner even though cable is heavilty compressed. So I switched to "movie" mode on the TV to compare like for like; cable HD movies versus HDMI footage off of the camera.

Since so many of our audences will be watching our footage on their TVs I wanted to get it right for the "end game," so to speak.

Long story short, I found that turning Detail to -7, Coring to -7 (just to be safe... it shouldn't be doing anything with sharpening off anyway, but just to be safe), and V Detail to +7. I found this gave me the best picture with plenty of detail, even up close, and virtually noise free. Note that I tried every single permutation of Detail and Coring, even with coring very high, Detail at -6 produced just little UGLY noise, and the coring made it splotchy and unattractive to my eye. I found the settings mentioned above, -7+7-7, had a wonderful organic gorgeous picture.

Now keep in mind this was uncompressed, so did not account for 4:2:0 color, and compression. Imagine all that ugly high frequency sharpening after being compressed!

During this I was also experimenting with ALL of the Gamma settings. There was no gamma that made any amount of detail look good enough for me to leave detail on.

But after I had settled on sharpening off, I went through the Gammas once again. Cinelike D was definitely noisier, but not bad enough I wouldn't use it. It pushes the ISO down, and this is clearly visible. Knowing that I shoot a lot in low light, but also enjoying a cinematic curve, I tried Cinelike V. To my surprise, it was almost as noisy as Cinelike D! This runs contrary to what is generally agreed upon, with Cinelike V being second quietest, and B.Press as quietest.

I found Low to give me a great cinematic look, and it was very quiet. The most startling thing, though is I found every single non-Cinelike Gamma to have a similar noise profile. HD Norm wasn't very noisy, and all of them looked great depending on the look you're going for.

What I took away was that Cinelike V is the most useless setting. I found B.Press to look very similar, with WAY less noise. Cinelike D is still worth the noise if you want the look, or more room in post, but I found HIGH to behave similar, but with much less noise.

I could see using any of the gammas depending on the shoot and planned post, or the look I liked for any given project... except Cinelike V and SD Norm (because I don't need to match to DVX footage for the near future).

I tried 720p versus 1080p. NO QUESTION. 1080p carries more detail. And with Detail off, it's important to get as much resolution as possible. But I found the best looking footage to be 1080p recorded on the camera, resized to 720p in Pro Res 422, even if your delivery is resized to 1080p again. There is clearly more color information, and high chroma edges and gradients look WAY better. Simply put 1080p resized properly to 720p looks like 4:2:2 footage. Good stuff. You do lose a little detail resizing back and fourth, but not much. Compared to native 720p footage it's still more detailed. I also could not break the codec in 1080p, lots of bad handheld just could not do it. Going frame by frame, I did find one single frame that was a little extra blurry than it should have been with a few macroblocks in specific places, but I had my nose to the screen. Playing the footage it'd be almost impossible to see, and even a few inches away from the screen, you couldn't see the macroblocks.

So if you're like me, you'll get addicted to turning the detail TOTALLY off. Looks great on TV, and even the computer. However, on the computer, I found the lack of edge enhancement a little more noticeable. What to do?

Well, I've just found first hand that sharpening in post looks almost exactly the same, and sometimes better than done in-cam. I tried both Genarts Sapphire sharpening, and Neat Video. Sapphire sharpening looks almost exactly the same as the kind of sharpening in-cam. You can make it look just like it was shot at 0 detail or 4 or anything on the scale, it's eerie how similar it is. And yes, it brings back those creepy crawly luma noise artifacts, so you don't win anything by sharpening in post, except for the fact that you have much more control. You can leave detail off for TVs, and for a web video or an HD download meant for computers, add the detail.

But Neat video is.... Neat! It adds the perception of detail without crapping up the picture. It makes a big difference, and doesn't add noise. No real artifacts, except for some very light pixelation on certain edges; not very noticeable at all. This is with no noise reduction in the plug-in at all. Lastly, though, it is not as powerful as the detail from Sapphire. There seems to be a ceiling in Neat Video, whereas in Sapphire you can make it look like Detail +7 and Coring -7. Neat Video can only get as far as what Detail +2 Coring +4 looks like.

After all this I've fallen in love with the camera again.

I hope this helps anyone out there who's interested. Take care, and happy shooting!!!
 
You say 1080p is much more detailed than 720p. Although I can imagine that this is true I'd like to see some image comparisons to show what you are talking about.
 
I love video noise!

It doesn't make me blind nor does it hurt my eardrums.

I see it every time in professionally made documentary shot in HD. Besides, not everyone can afford to own a HD set up box.

Learn to embrace it.

:)
 
arrestthisman:

Can you confirm the settings? In your 6th paragraph the first sentance says; Detail -7, Coring -7 & V Detail +7. Then the last sentance in the paragraph says -7, +7 & -7.

I did the same tweaking in the past with the HMC-150 connected directlly to HDTVs. I found a tremendous difference in picture quality at the pixel peeping level between different HDTVs. You have to have every auto control on the TV set to off and even then one LCD TV was still trying to do noise control of the image.

I tend to think what you see on a high end calibrated computer monitor is real output since there should be no image massaging controls a HDTV has.

Thanks for the info!
 
jeff: sorry about that, yes it is Detail -7, Coring -7 and V Detail +7 (BTW I own the PCM D-50 too, isn't it 60 kinds of awesome!?)

Yes, there's no question every TV will respond differently and a calibrated monitor is the way to go, but I think it is important to get an idea what footage will look like as a deliverable. I did a documentary with the DVX100, and it was so dark in some scenes I pushed it up a stop or two, when I went to a CRT monitor, the footage was plenty bright, and did not need the push (the gain looked terrible on the TV anyway; though it looked fine on the LCD... go figure).

With the settings above for the hmc, I ended up enjoying the look MUCH better on the LCD than my previous footage anyway, so for me it was win-win.

pailes: do you own the camera? If so you should do your own tests, because you may not see a difference. I'll post some pics when I get around to it. I have a busy week though. In the meantime if you have the camera or you search on the forum look for comparisons of things like latticework. Edges, even words don't necessarily show much of a difference. It's highly detailed surfaces like marble or embroidered cloth that clearly show the advantage for 1080p. That said, there is more aliasing at 1080p, so unless you resize it to 720p which mitigates that, it's something to consider before making a choice.
 
Yes I own the HMC for pretty much a year now. Haven't shot that much in 1080p since I prefer having higher frame rates most of the time. From an engineer's point of view I'm wondering if it's even possible for a 960x540 sensor to go beyond 1280x720 when using pixelshift technology but I do not now exactly how it works in the HMC so I can just guess.
 
From an engineer's point of view I'm wondering if it's even possible for a 960x540 sensor to go beyond 1280x720 when using pixelshift technology but I do not now exactly how it works in the HMC so I can just guess.

If I remember right, someone (I believe Barry) posted a while back that the effective resolution of the pixel shifted chips was in the ballpark of 1440x1080... but I could be wrong.
 
According to the Panasonic white paper on the sensor tech, they get about 1440 x 810 out of the chip block, so yes beyond what 720p can handle, but not quite what 1080p could store.

However, also keep in mind that you're getting way higher color resolution out of the 1080p mode. Both use 4:2:0, but 720p yields 640x360 chroma, 1080p yields 960x540 chroma. That's well over twice as much chroma information, which will yield better looking images even if they weren't sharper (and they are).
 
why do you find Cine-V useless?? also what did you have your master ped. set at for your tests? I hardly ever shoot anything but 1080 and Cine-V and have actually been bumping the detail up +2 as the Cine gammas supposedly have less sharpening to then than the other gammas. Thanks for the testing I will be giving your detail settings a try.
 
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so crank up the V Detail all the way!? My detail settings are very similar to yours however I keep the V detail at -7 and coring at -7 and leave the detail at about -5, What exactly is gained by bringing the v-detail up and won't that create nightmares when down-converting for something like a DVD?
 
I have seen noticeably different color and sharpness when connecting to a 46" Sharp Aquos through HDMI vs Component. Till I find out why, I will not be trusting HDMI for an accurate portrayal of the HMC's settings. The HDMI inputted footage looked noisier, sharper and brighter.
 
If that's the case it seems to me the HDMI is more trustworthy than the component. You describe exactly what happens when a signal is degraded over analog, it looses intensity (brightness) and becomes softer (obscuring any noise in the original source).
 
Interesting findings. Having read this I just took the time to hook my 151 up to my 40" LCD, and for sure the picture is smoother with the settings you suggest. However, having played with the settings for about 20 mins of so I'm not seeing much difference when changing the V Detail between -7, 0 and +7. What made you choose +7?
 
I have seen noticeably different color and sharpness when connecting to a 46" Sharp Aquos through HDMI vs Component. Till I find out why, I will not be trusting HDMI for an accurate portrayal of the HMC's settings. The HDMI inputted footage looked noisier, sharper and brighter.

Same experience different hdtv's .
The component looks better and is as close what you get for broadcast , atleast that has been my experience .
 
V Detail is "fine tuning" as Barry says. I haven't had any problems with downrez to SD, but I never shoot interlaced. If you shoot interlaced then be wary of V Detail. Otherwise, I find it did add a little detail, barely anything, but enough that I keep it on now, especially because it doesn't add noise. So when shooting progressive, it's a no lose situation for me.

Matt: I explained why I find Cinelike V useless... for me. And M. Ped from what I remember (notes not in front of me), was 0, and in one round maybe -2. I did bump it up to +20 just to see what was going on in the blacks to Try and see if they were clean, but that was only one shot.
 
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