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Okay, I feel like a dummy, but what is V Detail?
It looks a bit soft, where is your critical focus?
Wow, vimeo finally finished it. Took it close to 12 hours to upload and convert... Damn members.
A subtle look at the color tone difference in the four matrix modes.
Have done more test shooting with Norm 2, I've decided that chroma should go back to 0 and master ped at 0 vs. -2 on both. I've reviewed footage on Flanders 17", MacBook Pro via AVCCAM Viewer and 100" projection via BD player. Norm 2 matrix has really made a big difference on all displays--not noise free, but very tolerable. Now the biggest issue I have with the image is when highlights are blown out, there is a ring around the object with a chroma clipped color, even if the highlight itself is white. This chroma clipping look is the number one giveaway(besides noise) of a low cost video camera, IMO. I've seen even the HPX500 go yellow or orange on overexposed objects that I don't see with Panasonic AJ series.
As I've told clients for awhile, if you are shooting in controlled lighting environments, use the 170/200A/500(and now AF100 as well), if there is no light control, that's when you really want the P2 Varicam or other Panasonic model with Film-Rec gamma and 600% Dynamic Range. The processing sophistication of the AJ cameras, plus AVC-Intra is what the extra money buys.
Edit: The other issue that's been bothering me is banding. I thought it was maybe the codec, but it's there in live E to E via HD SDI and on Ki Pro ProRes 422 recording on multiple display devices. I did a side by side spotlight test with the 170 and the banding was present as well--not unusual for 8-bit digital displays--but it's a bit more pronounced on the AF100. Regardless, at least AVCCAM is ruled out.
Hey Dino, I'm curious if the banding is reduced when the Detail settings are left at zero. I find that with 8bit a little noise and dithering can hide the banding pretty good. It's all about happy mediums.
Ha! Funny video! Thanks for posting the test. I agree with everyone else in that I like Norm 2 the most. What were the other settings?
Hey Dino, I'm curious if the banding is reduced when the Detail settings are left at zero. I find that with 8bit a little noise and dithering can hide the banding pretty good. It's all about happy mediums.
Yeah, so is coring like counter sharpness?
I.e. turning sharpness down in camera removes the digital sharpness added to the image, and so coring takes detail away? I would love to read up a little bit on this, going to google it.
Yeah, so is coring like counter sharpness?
I.e. turning sharpness down in camera removes the digital sharpness added to the image, and so coring takes detail away? I would love to read up a little bit on this, going to google it.
The coring is a setting that sets a threshold beyond which the edge enhancement effect won't try sharpening things. The camera sees little tiny fine details and the edge enhancement circuitry goes in and tries to sharpen those up, exaggerating the contrast in them, to make them more visible. Which is fine and dandy, except that the camera can't tell the difference between REAL fine detail, and noise (which looks like little speckly fine detail). So it'll go merrily along sharpening up and enhancing the contrast on the noise, making it massively more visible.
Coring lets you raise or lower the threshold of which the edge enhancement will work. The higher you set it, the more fine detail it will exempt from edge enhancement. The lower you set it, the less detail will be exempt -- and, therefore, the more that will get edge-enhanced. So the goal would be to keep as much of the "good" sharpening that you can, while avoiding sharpening the noise. Coring helps that by letting you set the level as low as you need, or raising it up to get rid of the appearance of noise. However, coring can't tell the difference between fine detail and noise either, so if you raise the coring too high you won't get any sharpening on your legitimate fine detail -- and that can lead to things being too smooth or even "plasticky". So in an ideal world you'd want to set the detail as high as you can stand, and the coring as low as you can stand, but noise gets in the way of that, so you have to do a tricky little dance of lowering the detail and raising the coring to filter out the noise while keeping as much sharpness as you want.
Yes, the cleaner the signal, the more likely that you'll see banding, and yes, a little noise helps prevent banding. Canon found this out the hard way on the XL1; they were using a very low-noise chipset and they found that there was significant 8-bit banding in the image, and their recommendation to the end users was actually to put on +3dB of gain(!)Hey Dino, I'm curious if the banding is reduced when the Detail settings are left at zero. I find that with 8bit a little noise and dithering can hide the banding pretty good. It's all about happy mediums.
Again, it all depends on what you're trying to accomplish. All those settings are there for a reason. And keep in mind, coring is dependent on your detail setting; the lower the detail level, the less the edge enhancement will be doing, and the less the coring will be able to affect. The higher the detail level, the more the edge enhancement does, and therefore the effects of coring are much, much more visible. So you can't just say "+2 is the good setting" because +2 looks very different when detail is -7, than it does when detail is +7. Like I said, it's all a balancing act.I know there is never a magic solution to the perfect setting, because then there wouldn't be any feature to modify, but have we come close to a prefered setting? I see Coring +2 seems to be pretty popular and then it's just a quesiton of detail.