Need help with focus.

L

LampoFilm

Member
When I do interviews , my biggest problem is with the focus. I shoot about 15 to 20 feet away from my subject, with another 3 to 6 feet behind them. I am trying all the things in the manual. I try manual and auto focus, but I am not getting sharp focus of my subject. I wish there was something on the screen for autofocus like my canon camera to let me know the target area of the focus point. I use focus assist, and when I look in the viewfinder, it looks good, but back home on the computer, it looks out of focus and the way way background is in focus.
Is there a way I can measure the subject and then in the camera put how many yards or feet it is away?
My eye is a little blurry, so maybe when I look in the viewfinder, I am doing something wrong.
Any tips or tricks would be great.
Can't wait for the AC130 with better autofocus. But I am sure the HMC150 is good, I just haven't learned it yet.
thanks for your time
 
The viewfinder and flip-out LCD are OK for judging focus if your subject is in the center 10% of the frame (when used with focus assist), but for continuous interviews where you can't focus, recompose, and lock back into position mid-interview this just isn't practical.

On set, I use an external 23" LCD computer monitor for judging critical focus on my HMC150. In the field, I use a 5" or 7" Marshall LCD monitor for the same reason.

The main reason I plan on getting an AC130 to replace my HMC150 is for the superior onboard monitor (the better lens, better low light performance, and dual card slots don't hurt either! haha). That said, I really really like the footage the HMC150 delivers, and so do my clients.
 
If you're looking into the viewfinder, make sure that it's focused right for your eye. However, I'd mainly recommend using the LCD screen. I think it's perfectly fine for focusing and since it has focus assist, I feel any external monitor is almost unnecessary if it's just for focus (not saying that's why you're using yours, Jason). I use this technique and almost never miss:

Zoom all the way in and put your focus point in the center of the screen, then use the focus assist. Usually I'm able to focus on hair follicles on a person's face, or eyelashes. They should look sharp on the LCD. Once the focus is set, zoom out once again and frame your shot up. It's important to zoom all the way in because it gets you closer to your subject so you can see better on the little LCD. One thing I notice with my HMC is that sometimes I think I hit my focus, but then I keep turning the focus ring and it gets even sharper. So I usually trust auto focus, or switch on auto focus, allow it to focus on my subject, then switch it back to manual focus mode to "lock" that focus number in. It's a little faster but you're trusting the little asian man inside the camera to hit your focus for you!

The most important part is to zoom all the way in, and then use the focus assist. This method hasn't failed me yet. I also usually go past the sharpest focus a few times back and forth before setting it finally. It's just to make sure the image doesn't get any sharper when I turn the ring more, like I mentioned earlier. Hope this helps!!!
 
ASchear said:
If you're looking into the viewfinder, make sure that it's focused right for your eye. However, I'd mainly recommend using the LCD screen. I think it's perfectly fine for focusing and since it has focus assist, I feel any external monitor is almost unnecessary if it's just for focus (not saying that's why you're using yours, Jason). I use this technique and almost never miss:

Zoom all the way in and put your focus point in the center of the screen, then use the focus assist. Usually I'm able to focus on hair follicles on a person's face, or eyelashes. They should look sharp on the LCD. Once the focus is set, zoom out once again and frame your shot up. It's important to zoom all the way in because it gets you closer to your subject so you can see better on the little LCD. One thing I notice with my HMC is that sometimes I think I hit my focus, but then I keep turning the focus ring and it gets even sharper. So I usually trust auto focus, or switch on auto focus, allow it to focus on my subject, then switch it back to manual focus mode to "lock" that focus number in. It's a little faster but you're trusting the little asian man inside the camera to hit your focus for you!

The most important part is to zoom all the way in, and then use the focus assist. This method hasn't failed me yet. I also usually go past the sharpest focus a few times back and forth before setting it finally. It's just to make sure the image doesn't get any sharper when I turn the ring more, like I mentioned earlier. Hope this helps!!!
Click to expand...

+1 ... that's how I do it too, but you don't have to use the 'switch' for auto-focus. Leave the switch on manual focus & use the 'push Auto' button under it to auto-focus...let it go & tweak with the focus ring.
 
I like the idea of a 23" monitor. How do you hook it up?
Plus, the price drop on some of these LCD tvs, you could hook the HMC150 up to that too.

I like all these ideas!
 
A couple more tips -

If you are having any eye problems, grab a pair of those cheap reading glasses at the drug store - just try them in the store, look at fine-print on packaging with various magnifications. Buy a glasses - neck string while you're at it. I've found the readers to be a huge help in seeing the small LCD or even my Marshall monitor, especially in dim light (and keep an LED flashlight in your pocket for pushing buttons in the dark).

I still think the best tool for getting initial focus is the viewfinder - make sure it's adjusted for your eyes though.

I also bought a 27" flatscreen TV, Samsung. Get a cheap wall mount and adapt it to connect to a grip head, and stick it on a wheeled stand with sandbags and hook it up via HDMI. I use this more for clients, or if I have a b-cam and I want to see what the 2nd shooter is getting. You can find a TV for well under $300, you can use a passive HDMI splitter if you have a smaller on-camera monitor, etc. The hardest thing for me was finding a case for the TV - I found a great iMac padded bag. A 20" TV or HDMI monitor may be the better tool for you (as the main camera op) to use though, 27 is pretty big to have right next to you.
 
Deer Film said:
I like the idea of a 23" monitor. How do you hook it up?
Plus, the price drop on some of these LCD tvs, you could hook the HMC150 up to that too.

I like all these ideas!
Click to expand...

I always use HDMI for external monitors... get HD video and audio.
 
Deer Film said:
I like the idea of a 23" monitor. How do you hook it up?
Plus, the price drop on some of these LCD tvs, you could hook the HMC150 up to that too.

I like all these ideas!
Click to expand...

I use HDMI from the camera to the monitor! I think I paid about $120 or $130 for my cheapie 23" ASUS-brand computer monitor on NewEgg's website. Clients on set really dig it, even if it's not the most color-accurate picture, and even though it does chop the outside 10% of the frame.
 
A few more thoughts:

As was previously mentioned, if you are using the viewfinder, make sure the diopter adjustment is set for your eye.

What aperture setting are you using. Anything past f/8 and your lens performance will deteriorate. You'll get the best lens performance around f/4.

Is your scene well lit? Are you using any gain? If you are underexposed, or using gain, a noisy image will result and will soften.

What scene file are you using. Most of the cine type settings are softer. Other settings can effect your results as well.

How are you viewing your clips? If your computer isn't up to the task, it may just be your display. Have you viewed any clips direct to a HDTV or other monitors?

The OP didn't give too many details or any clips, so it is worth mentioning that these other things can have an effect. Combine a couple of them, and things can go south pretty quickly.

Grant
 
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