Need advice

The 10-22 is also EF-S so no go for full frame. You may want to be careful when you recc somthing like this as the person could buy the wrong thing.

The 14mm 2.8L series rectalinear lens is made for full frame and a super nice piece of glass if you have $2400. We just bough one for my work, so I will report back after I try it out. I know it is great though from talking to other DPs.

The 16-35 f2.8L and the 17-40 f4L are also very nice I have the 17-40 for my personal cam and have used the 16-35 and it is super nice too (but twice as much as the 17-40 f4L which is IMHO a super bargin at $700).

well the 1d4 is actually APS-H (1.3 crop) and not FF but yeah I'm probably thinking of the 7d. it's in a weird spot though since the 16-35 and 17-40 (which I guess are the full frame equivalents of the 11-16 and 10-22) wouldn't be that wide on it (21 and 22mm). the 10-22mm would vignette at the wide end on the 1d but could probably be zoomed in to around 12-13mm (giving you 16-17mm). the tokina would probably be the way to go over the canon though if he went that route.
 
wow I guess I should have checked the link in your sig- you guys are fully decked out! so you have a varicam, an f900, an hpx3000 along with steadicams, dollies, a wireless follow focus, cranes and 35mm adapters etc. have you considered selling one of the 2/3" cameras and going with a Red? or I guess an Epic or S35 and above Scarlet or whatever.

anyway it looks like you have a Zeiss Prime set (that you use with the adapters) so it seems like you're pretty set with everything except for the actual camera itself. maybe a shoulder rig since that seems DSLR specific although you probably have 15mm rods as well. one lens you may want and I wish they made for all mounts is a Tokina 11-16. extra cards and batteries? that's about it, I'm sure a lot of people wish they had all your gear. for most people the price of the 1dmarkIV (or D3s) might not be justified compared to a 7D say, but in your case the low light performance is probably worth it. It is basically the same camera but better (maybe not as much as the price would indicate but better).

Thank you again everybody for the input.

We are not considering selling any of the 2/3 cameras (we just added a HPX 2700). They have their place and use. I know this is off topic but we have NEVER used the RED because when we need a similar spec camera we usually rent a Panavision Genesis. We are going to start experimenting with the RED in a few months.

Back on topic:
We are going to add more Zeiss ZF lenses as Morgan stated they would fit a Canon (if we go that way). We are also looking to add a very high end zoom lens.

The information everybody has provided is very valuable, thank you for taking the time to share it with us.
 
The 10-22 is also EF-S so no go for full frame. You may want to be careful when you recc somthing like this as the person could buy the wrong thing.

The 14mm 2.8L series rectalinear lens is made for full frame and a super nice piece of glass if you have $2400. We just bough one for my work, so I will report back after I try it out. I know it is great though from talking to other DPs.

The 16-35 f2.8L and the 17-40 f4L are also very nice I have the 17-40 for my personal cam and have used the 16-35 and it is super nice too (but twice as much as the 17-40 f4L which is IMHO a super bargin at $700).

Thank you Mike, this is really good information. :dankk2:
 
Thank you again everybody for the input.

. We are also looking to add a very high end zoom lens.

I take it you understand that no DSLR zooms are any good for zooming 'in shot'

I have 24-105 canon (which is a bit fisheye at the long end on the 5d)
70-200 canon 4 and nikon 2.8

those 70-200 are excellent not for zooming in shot but keeping load down and making the shooting process faster changing primes all the time

I use those zooms for 90% of my work (and the 16-50 tokina on the 7d)

just to save time

IMO F4 is plenty on a FF chip but you need at least 2.8 on the 7d to isolate your subject properly

ps If Dan says the 11-16 is good for 13-16 on 1.3 crop he will be correct - he has more glass than most people have in their green house

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I take it you understand that no DSLR zooms are any good for zooming 'in shot'

I have 24-105 canon (which is a bit fisheye at the long end on the 5d)
70-200 canon 4 and nikon 2.8

those 70-200 are excellent not for zooming in shot but keeping load down and making the shooting process faster changing primes all the time

I use those zooms for 90% of my work (and the 16-50 tokina on the 7d)

just to save time

IMO F4 is plenty on a FF chip but you need at least 2.8 on the 7d to isolate your subject properly

ps If Dan says the 11-16 is good for 13-16 on 1.3 crop he will be correct - he has more glass than most people have in their green house

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Correct, we are only looking at zooms as a framing convenience if we are run-n-gun.
 
ps If Dan says the 11-16 is good for 13-16 on 1.3 crop he will be correct - he has more glass than most people have in their green house

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I am sure it is great in the aps-h sensor from 13.5-16 (and I know it is amazing on aps-c as I am strongly considering it for my personal kit). Just want to make sure we list the gotchas too as it is difficult to tell at a glance it is a short back focus lens the way it is described around the web (info is there, just not as clear as when you call the lens ef-s). I personally worry about spending big bucks on EFS lenses since I also shoot full frame and the OP specifically mentioned full frame (even though he never clarifies if he meant full frame still photgraphy or motion picture full frame (similar to aps-c)).
 
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YA I figured. We do the same kind of work as you and sometimes we don't have a chance to play with new equipment for weeks or months after purchase, so you may not know until too late. Definatly different world than being an owner operator (did that before I took the full time producing job) :)
 
I am sure it is great in the aps-h sensor from 13.5-16 (and I know it is amazing on aps-c as I am strongly considering it for my personal kit). Just want to make sure we list the gotchas too as it is difficult to tell at a glance it is a short back focus lens the way it is described around the web (info is there, just not as clear as when you call the lens ef-s). I personally worry about spending big bucks on EFS lenses since I also shoot full frame and the OP specifically mentioned full frame (even though he never clarifies if he meant full frame still photgraphy or motion picture full frame (similar to aps-c)).

actually you were right about the canon- the tokina 11-16 and sigma 10-20 are made for aps-c but are both regular ef mount so can be used on FF or APS-H cameras (with vignetting at the very wide ends).and are good to go. the canon 10-22 on the other hand is a short back focus, but supposedly you can take off the back plastic ring to make it fit. it probably wouldn't be worth the risk since you run the risk of hitting the camera mirror if you go too wide. I had actually used it and thought it was decent, but yeah that was on an APS-C and APS-H won't accept EF-S mounts.

the only two current FF (still photography wise) video DSLRs are the D3s and the 5d but I think the 1d4 is close enough that it should count. It has so many other features though that it should probably be his first choice over the others. if he didn't need slow motion it would be close between the D3s and the 1d4 but for army videos it seems like you'd want it for action etc.
 
actually you were right about the canon- the tokina 11-16 and sigma 10-20 are made for aps-c but are both regular ef mount so can be used on FF or APS-H cameras (with vignetting at the very wide ends).and are good to go. the canon 10-22 on the other hand is a short back focus, but supposedly you can take off the back plastic ring to make it fit. it probably wouldn't be worth the risk since you run the risk of hitting the camera mirror if you go too wide. I had actually used it and thought it was decent, but yeah that was on an APS-C and APS-H won't accept EF-S mounts.

the only two current FF (still photography wise) video DSLRs are the D3s and the 5d but I think the 1d4 is close enough that it should count. It has so many other features though that it should probably be his first choice over the others. if he didn't need slow motion it would be close between the D3s and the 1d4 but for army videos it seems like you'd want it for action etc.
I've done this and on a 1D II you need to zoom to 12mm+. If you must go ultrawide on a 1D IV your only choice is the Sigma 12-24, which is designed for full frame. It cannot take a filter without vignetting until somewhere around 16mm.
 
Of course there is the nikkor 14-24 lense to which is the real badboy of ultrawide zooms

with a 16-9 net adabpter that will work/cover any DSLR

on the UWZoom thing Dan makes some points of value over the ability of the 11-16 having a flat front to accept screw on filters - the reason he is choosing it over the 14 prime for his 1ds4

I think the 14-24 nikkor does NOT have a flat front

dans blog..dsrl newsshooter


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