GH5 ND filter for video: I look for a good filter for gh5

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FoxAdriano

Well-known member
Hi, I don't like to use that Variable ND filter in my next trip in Africa. With SLR Magic Reflex 62 mm 0,4-1,8 - Mark II - new version I got bad result. I'd like to buy a new fixed ND filter but a good filter to make 4K videos with y GH5 camera. I don't like dominant color, vignetting and above all I don't not like if the filter lowers the sharpness or definition. I need a 62mm ND filter but I don't know about how many stops I need if I shoot in Africa. Do you think 6 stops are good?
If you know a really good ND filter could you write the precise model please and brand?
Thanks

PS: Sometime I read "neutral" ND filter but not on all of them. What does it mean? Do I have to buy a neutral ND filter?
 
Based on all your previous posts, I think this is would be a mistake. You can barely handle working with the camera as is - to add having to juggle different ND filters, will likely be a disaster.

Not only have I had excellent results using the Syrp, it is one of the best reviewed variable ND's on the market. I don't know how you could have done something wrong, but unless you just happened to get a bad one (I doubt that) then you did.
 
You will need more than one strength of ND filter as lighting conditions change outdoors. Look for filters made of Water White glass. Also, for ease of use you might want to get some magnetic adapters like the XUME, so you can take the filters on and off easily...Reading all your posts, I'm not sure DSLRs are right for you and think you would be better off with an all in one camera like the EVA-1 or Sony PXW-FS5 that has more built in features, like ND's.
 
Here’s a portion of one of my recent responses to you on another thread...

Fox,

I’m not a fan of Variable ND for a variety of reasons, but am especially averse to the polarization, especially on skin. Wouldn’t be surprised if some of your concerns have to do with the filters, as I also often use preset White Balances, but rely on Hoya’s ProND filters attached to Xume Adapters, which allows quickly swapping densities.

ProND’s, & some others, have a metallic coating that provides the density, & are relatively neutral across the various strengths. The metallic coating also provides a degree on IR protection, & the only issues I’ve had with them is they’re a bit harder to clean then the traditional ND that uses dyes to provide the density.

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthrea...he-GH5&p=1986769969&viewfull=1#post1986769969

Suggest getting -2, -4, & -6, stops of ND, & Xume adapters. Also a clear, or UV (not UV/IR) filter to protect the lens in truly adverse conditions (aka flying pebbles or such). With Xume(s) attached to your lens you won’t be able to use the traditional lens cap & will need one that attaches magnetically. Xume offers some sizes, but might be tricky to locate in 62mm, so I usually use a screw-in cap mounted to a Xume filter adapter.

Screw-in Lens Cap
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/806927-REG/Sensei_lcm62_62mm_Screw_In_Metal_Lens.html

Xume Lens Caps
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/co...h=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search&Ntt=xume lens cap

If you go this route you’ll need the four filters, one Xume lens adapter, five Xume filter adapters, the screw-in Lens Cap, & some form of Filter Wallet.

Six filter wallet
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/212306-REG/B_W_65030080_B6_Filter_Pouch.html

Three filter wallet that can attach to a belt.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1166842-REG/tamrac_t0355_1919_arc_compact_filter_case.html

If you dig around you can usually find ProND filters at deep discount prices. eBay is likely your best source, especially if you use the “Best Offer” feature, but I’ve also come across the occasional bargain on B&H & Amazon. I own sets of ProND filters in 58mm, 62mm, 67mm, 72mm, & 77mm, but never paid full retail for any of them.

And don’t be turned off by the Hoya brand name. They are the largest manufacturer of optical glass in the world, & their glass is used by Nikon, Canon, Leica, & others. I believe the ProND(s) are actually made by Tokina, who also sell larger round, square, & rectangular, versions that utilize the same technology.

http://www.tokinacinema.com/filters/pro_irnd_filters.html

Lastly, look for a secondhand 62mm ExpoDisc. Might take some digging, & some time, to locate, but should be doable. There’s no method to attach a ExpoDisc to a Xume, but that’s also unnecessary. Make sure you get a standard ExpoDisc, & not a ‘Warm’.

[EDIT] just found a brand new 62mm ExpoDisc on eBay that ships from Canada

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Expodisc-D...023842?hash=item3d775461e2:g:1Y0AAOSw1BlZVFlV
 
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The one way a static ND filter could be useful is to just reduce the light enough to keep the aperture within a safer range. For example instead of forcing the aperture into f22 or worse range you can use a static ND for 3 stops and use the aperture as needed but now the upper limit would be f8 instead of f22. This can help greatly since m43 lenses still look good at f8. It also gives you the flexibility of adjusting the aperture on the camera making unpredictable shooting environments a bit easier. Also opens up the potential to let the camera auto adjust the aperture and still stay within a decent aperture range to reduce diffraction.

In a perfect world I would always use lights or ND as needed to nail perfect exposure but sometimes the key advantage to ND is to just prevent having to use super small apertures like f22.
 
joe12south said:
Based on all your previous posts, I think this is would be a mistake.
Click to expand...

Fox, I agree with Joe. You may be fixing one thing and then have two more problems show up in its place. Given that one of your priorities is to have minimum weight and be able to quickly respond to situations to capture events as they happen, fixed NDs sounds like a significant challenge and a step in the wrong direction. I'd suggest careful consideration of your workflow and priorities before making a change to one or more fixed NDs. Whether you use a single fixed ND or several, you will have to change NDs when the light changes. That is in conflict with issues you have posted about. Let's recall that you said:

" In manual way I always got a delay of 10-15 seconds in order to change shutter speed, aperture, etc. etc. 2) Every time I needed to change or remove the ND filter and / or the lens it made me stomach cramps. " as soon as I turn on the camera I need to shoot instantly.

"What I don't understand well is why do I use Auto ISO? Usually I leave 400 ISO from the morning to evening, then I change it in the late evening. In those sunny areas of Africa I change ISO only when it comes the evening. For me is not a problem."

I forgot to tell you I always used 50p, 5.6 aperture and 1/100 shutter, I always used and I turned the expensive SLR Magic ND variable filter. When I noticed everything was OK I made the shots.

"I will know better my GH5 I will be able to get a great image quality but not a good video because I will never be able to film what I see. Usually where I go people's actions flow very quickly. "

"When I was in Africa I shot for some hours (around 5-6 hours) I didn't get not even one clip correctly exposed. All my clips have a brown, underexposed and with reddish dominant."

"in your opinion how can I decrease that the browsnish colour while I'm shooting in Africa? Thanks for your suggestions. For me they are important.

"In other words, which is the faster solution to get enough good colours? Even if I will not get good colors, I'm happy."

"I used the WB preset. Never did the manual WB."

"In every place there is a different light."

"I make video for more than 30 years"

"As all you are professionals and I am amateur about video"
 
But I'm almost sure my problem was the variable ND filter and now I explain better. My biggest error was to use 400 ISO. I always needed to close the variable ND filter a lot (may be too much) and it gave me bad quality of images. The images seem have been polarized. Also keep in mind that filming black people is difficult. Now I have two options: to continue to use my variable ND filter and to choose 100 ISO or to buy a new fixed ND filter (6 stops) and make the video with it only. I don't need to make a perfect image quality. I need to use an easy device and to make a good image quality. With a good fixed ND filter I think I can shoot everything in daylight, in the morning and in the afternoon. Of course it's that I can use my variable ND filter again if I put 100 ISO in the GH5 but at this point I'm a bit scared because I took orrible shoots in Africa and I will go there again in April.

EDIT: I don't take interest on depth of field but I like a good quality of the faces of black people and landscapes.
 
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But your procedure is this - "I always used 50p, 5.6 aperture and 1/100 shutter, I always used and I turned the expensive SLR Magic ND variable filter. When I noticed everything was OK I made the shots.". In your new procedure, the variable ND is no longer there, so something has to change. You said you are going to use one ASA setting, so that leaves aperture and shutter. This needs to be thoroughly thought through and tested since this is a significant change from your previous trip. I can't imaging going to another country and then throwing everything away because you didn't like the look.
 
Adriano, I think both Noa and I use the AX100, that you have, with the GH5 and GH5S and that match just fine. In the theatre I use the AX100 for the closeups of faces of actors from the back of the room. They match great with the two GH5's at wider angles. Sony colour is a little different but can be matched just fine. The advantage the GH5 has is it can be used with different lenses and can shoot V-Log-L for wide dynamic range. If you do not take advantage of that and shoot with auto focus they are little different to the AX100 with the disadvantage as you have found out of no built in ND , less zoom range and shorter run time on the batteries. They do however shoot 50/60P in UHD which is why I use them.
 
Ron,
I don't have Sony AX100 anymore. I used it for some years and I know it enough well. His image quality no longer satisfied me. It is useless for you to tell me that if I had set up the AX100 well, I would have gotten very good videos. No, in my country I used both with good settings and GH5 always gave better image quality. The image of the AX100 looks plasticized compared to the GH5. It has no comparison. You make a mistake if you tell me AX100 can give similar results. Nooooooooooo. GH5 gives me a lot better results than AX100. GH5 gives better videos even than Panasonic AU-EVA1 Cinema Camera 5.7K Super 35mm. My problem is not when I make videos in my country, my problem is another but maybe here there are people who don't want to hear me. Africa is a very big problem FOR ME.... and as I film the black people, the problem doubles. I hope someone understands me. I don't take weddings where the action can take place as fast as my actions in Africa. I made many weddings but Africa is quite another thing. In remote villages there are these problems: the scorching heat of the environment, the enormous light, the red dominat of the earth, the people who don't want to be filmed, the absence of sleep because I often sleep in the huts (without air conditioning) and it sometimes rain every night and I'm always wet in the morning, the hard trek on the bush, the sweat, the tiredness and much more, many other things I didn't write. Some years ago in Colombia I made a very hard trek in the forested mountains for 6 days. I was for almost all the time on a mule and where the environment was even hotter than in black Africa....... These are some of the environments that I usually travel and I'm alone. I'd like to do a second test in Africa in April and check if the GH5 is for me. After the mistakes of the first route in Africa, I hope to improve my video. :embarasse
 
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Yes, many African locations can be challenging.
The overall reddish coloration that comes from the earth (and dust during the dry season) I've personally found quite beautiful.
if you're going with ND's though, I'd definitely recommend getting ones that also are designed to block InfraRed. (That's one of the hidden problems with variable ND filters - they can't adjust the degree of IR filtration to match the degree to which they reduce exposure.) I'd probably start with an ND 1.2 (4 stops) on the camera just to see if you're in the right ballpark. When I've shot there it's been 99% with cameras that had built-in ND's -- though I often would put a circular polarizer on the front of the lens as well.
But most importantly, be aware of your intense dynamic range challenges - and try to match the light on your subjects to the light on the background -- unless you really want them as silhouettes. I found portable reflectors extremely useful when shooting in the villages. The dynamic range of the cameras has improved - but not necessarily to the point that you want. If you don't light your subjects you will also want to learn about generating mattes in a color correction program like Resolve - since that can prove very useful in controlling your highlights and bringing up selective details.
 
I think we all do understand you. Yes we do know your are dealing with difficult conditions. However you are the main problem not the equipment. Your lack of knowledge of photography is a handicap for you in that you are unable to adjust for conditions from a position of knowledge. You can only get this knowledge from learning which you seem to resist even saying you do not like learning in another thread. If you do not put in the effort to learn you will not succeed with any camera. Understanding exposure controls and how they affect depth of field, perceived motion etc are fundamental. If you do not want to do this you are better off with a fully automatic camcorder and focus on the subject. No one can give you these parameters since they are totally dependent on the situation. You have to know what to set from your knowledge to achieve the effect you want for that shot. I can assure you that a AX100 and GH5 both set in automatic are very little different to one another as perceived by a normal person. Of course the GH5 can get better image but only if the user knows what they are doing. It could also be a lot worse than the AX100 in the wrong hands.
 
Ron is 100% right.
Now, after saying that you don't like to learn, why in hell are you still coming here for answers if it's not to find a magical solution to your ''problems''.
Please stop waisting our time if you're not willing to learn. I would even say by not aknowledging the need to learn to ''get better video'' that it's an insult for us who do really put time to learn our craft.
I know that you are not doing this intentionally but you REALLY have to AKNOWLEDGE the fact that you really NEED to learn to be better, like any other craft/sport for that matter.
 
Please all you don't waste your time to answer me because you still don't understad what I write. All you really think a guy who has been using a camera for 40 years doesn't know basic knowledge? When I read it it makes me smile. I can't know well GH5 because I use it for a little time and I am listless to read english manuals, for me it is enough hard. I'm almost sure I will get better result when I will shot again in Africa because I will not use the variable ND filter anymore. I don't know if I'm right about what I write but I'm really curious if all depends on the variable filter. Surely I can't light up the faces of the people because I'm alone and I already know I never can get an optimal image but better images.

PS: I read in an interational forum about a guy who use both GH5 and AU-EVA1 and he wrote it is very hard to tell GH5 is better but that that video camera but maybe a bit better yes, GH5 gives better videos even than Panasonic AU-EVA1 Cinema Camera 5.7K Super 35mm.
 
Methinks that all problems the poster has will be solved if he stopped measuring sensitivity in ASA but instead start using DIN :tongue:
 
FoxAdriano said:
PS: I read in an interational forum about a guy who use both GH5 and AU-EVA1 and he wrote it is very hard to tell GH5 is better but that that video camera but maybe a bit better yes, GH5 gives better videos even than Panasonic AU-EVA1 Cinema Camera 5.7K Super 35mm.
Click to expand...

So, you read a post from 1 guy that says that GH5 makes better images than the EVA1 and you take it for granted?
 
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