My timelapse showreel 2011/12

P

Paddy Bartram

New member
I have been making timelapses for just over a year now and this is a compilation of my favourite shots

Please give me some feedback on how I could improve this edit, ideas for new and different shots and just your thoughts on my showreel.

I hope you like it.

 
You've got some great stuff! Really cool. One thing that's a little distracting though, is you'll get some cool shots of clouds but have plants and trees moving from the wind, flickering back and forth... really distracting. Some of them you may be able to actually crop and get a static image, I would recommend in the future trying to frame out anything that's going to be moving a lot back and forth from the wind.

cool video!
 
sonofaresiii said:
You've got some great stuff! Really cool. One thing that's a little distracting though, is you'll get some cool shots of clouds but have plants and trees moving from the wind, flickering back and forth... really distracting. Some of them you may be able to actually crop and get a static image, I would recommend in the future trying to frame out anything that's going to be moving a lot back and forth from the wind.

cool video!
Click to expand...

Thanks, glad you liked it.

I agree with you on the plants movement. It is annoying and since I took those timelapses I have learned a little more about how to frame my shots. This sort of feedback is really useful and will hopefully lead to me producing better edits in the future.
 
I've posted the following on Vimeo but wanted to expand a little here....

Very nice. I was wondering if you used LRTimelapse, and I see from the description that you did. Some day I'm going to have o get to NZ. Someday soon....
Click to expand...

My wondering about LRTimelapse was because some of the shots looked a bit underexposed, and LR/LRTimelapse (assuming your images can stand it) is great for pulling out some of the stuff in the shadows. Did you shoot RAW? (I used to shoot bracketed jpgs to do HDR, but now do mostly single exposure RAW.)

Of course, could just be an editorial choice.

Oh, and for the trees, using NDs so you can choose a longer shutter speed will help with that. But personally, I sometimes like the look of trees flickering....
 
keylight said:
I've posted the following on Vimeo but wanted to expand a little here....



My wondering about LRTimelapse was because some of the shots looked a bit underexposed, and LR/LRTimelapse (assuming your images can stand it) is great for pulling out some of the stuff in the shadows. Did you shoot RAW? (I used to shoot bracketed jpgs to do HDR, but now do mostly single exposure RAW.)

Of course, could just be an editorial choice.

Oh, and for the trees, using NDs so you can choose a longer shutter speed will help with that. But personally, I sometimes like the look of trees flickering....
Click to expand...

An ND filter is definitely something that I will be investing in very soon, not just for timelapses but for some water shots as well. I know what you mean about some of the clips being underexposed. SInce I took those timelapses my shooting style has changed some what and I now look for a greater dynamic range in my timelapse shots.

I don't currently shoot in raw for timelapses as the large number of images take up so much space. This is definitely something that I will look at doing in the future though as I want to maximise my cameras ability.

What are your thoughts on using graduated ND filters in timelapses?
 
New_Zealand said:
What did you edit on and which camera did you use?
Click to expand...

My camera is the Canon 550d.

I edit the photos in lightroom, then deflicker them in LRtimelapse, then once they're exported I compile them into a video file using quicktimeplayer 7 then I edit all the clips and cut them to music in Final Cut Pro 7.

If you have any other questions regarding my workflow please don't hesitate to ask.
 
Paddy Bartram said:
What are your thoughts on using graduated ND filters in timelapses?
Click to expand...

I would never use a grad filter on original footage because it always looks fake. I know this because a few years ago I bought an extensive set and used them a few times. If you still want to try better buy mine for half price.
 
Paddy Bartram said:
What are your thoughts on using graduated ND filters in timelapses?
Click to expand...

Grad ND's can be really useful when you've got fairly distinct areas of high contrast, as long as those areas that will stay that way over time. If you've got a shot where the clouds will cast heavy shadows for a few minutes, then no shadows, then heavy shadows again... an graduated ND may be a little less useful. Depends on what you want it to look like.

Best thing is to get a graduated ND (like a .9) and experiment. Square or rectangular grad NDs are more useful than screw-ins because you can adjust them more. They can be really expensive (sized for matte boxes) or relatively cheap (using the Cokin filter holder with Cokin grad NDs).

And when you shoot RAW, I suggest you get the FASTEST cards you can. Write time is really important because the longer the write time, the longer your interval will have to be. And as you know, RAWs are much bigger than jpgs so they take longer to write.

Edit: Here's a couple of shots I did a few days ago, using a .9 ND and a circular polarizer.

Camera Settings:
Image: RAW 4608x3456
ISO: 160
Shutter: 1/5 sec
Aperture: f/11
Interval: 3 sec


Workflow: GH2 > LR Timelapse > Lightroom > After Effects > Premiere > Vimeo


A 1/2 second shutter might have worked better, but the kind of jitter from the trees is definitely softer than it would have been with a faster shutter.

 
Last edited:
keylight said:
Grad ND's can be really useful when you've got fairly distinct areas of high contrast, as long as those areas that will stay that way over time. If you've got a shot where the clouds will cast heavy shadows for a few minutes, then no shadows, then heavy shadows again... an graduated ND may be a little less useful. Depends on what you want it to look like.

Best thing is to get a graduated ND (like a .9) and experiment. Square or rectangular grad NDs are more useful than screw-ins because you can adjust them more. They can be really expensive (sized for matte boxes) or relatively cheap (using the Cokin filter holder with Cokin grad NDs).

And when you shoot RAW, I suggest you get the FASTEST cards you can. Write time is really important because the longer the write time, the longer your interval will have to be. And as you know, RAWs are much bigger than jpgs so they take longer to write.

Edit: Here's a couple of shots I did a few days ago, using a .9 ND and a circular polarizer.

Camera Settings:
Image: RAW 4608x3456
ISO: 160
Shutter: 1/5 sec
Aperture: f/11
Interval: 3 sec


Workflow: GH2 > LR Timelapse > Lightroom > After Effects > Premiere > Vimeo


A 1/2 second shutter might have worked better, but the kind of jitter from the trees is definitely softer than it would have been with a faster shutter.

Click to expand...


The shots look really nice, I will definitely think about investing in some ND grad filters
 
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