My First DSLR Wedding Experience

Taky

Well-known member
Just finished a 6 hours wedding the first time using DSLR. I planned this a month ago. Been ordering all that I need. Here’s a list of what I ordered

  • Canon T2i x 3 (with difference lens and lens kit)
  • Canon Battery Grip x 3
  • Sandisk 16GB Class 6 SD card x 10
  • Rode VideoMic x 2
  • Lilliput 7” Monitor x 1
  • Cinecity Rail x 1
  • IndiFocusMini x 1
  • IndiSliderMini x 1
  • LP-E8 Battery x 12

Here’s a few things from my experience.

Focusing
Manual focusing is a pain. I can do well with the focus ring gear and a 7” monitor. However, my assistant was not familiar with DSLR (and so am I). For the first half of the cermeony, he has the wrong focus. Luckily it’s the B-roll only. I still have my main cam footage covered. Also, the couple goes with standard definition DVD package only. Sizing down the HD footage to SD will make the out focus not noticeable.

12-Minute Time Limit
I thought it would be an issue. It turns out, I always remember to pause recording whenever I can. As the other cam is rolling, there is no lost of footage. Now I realized the problem is not the 12-minutes time limit, it’s T2i’s way reporting remaining time on LCD display. It makes it difficult to know when the card is about full.

Overheating
I am aware of the overheating issue and I tested the cameras. For that 6 hours coverage, I have the overheat warning appears twice on my main cam. None on the second cam. I turned off the camera right away. Flip it back on after 10 seconds, the warning went away. I still have to keep in mind whenever I’m not recording, or standby, just turn off the camera.

Follow Focus
After the first hour, I already noticed it is useless to use the Follow Focus. The reason is, after I zoom, I don’t have enough time to move my hand from the zoom ring to the FF to adjust for a good focus. For live event, it just impossible. I trained myself to adjust the zoom ring with my thumb and index finger. Then adjust the focus immediately with the ring finger. Therefore, the FF is not necessary. The focus ring GEAR is necessary for such quick and accurate moment.

However, the Follow Focus + rail does give a stunning look of the whole rig. It gives a lot of talking point too.

Audio
Everybody agrees T2i's onboard audio with AGC is bad. The Rode VideoMic will comes handy. Not only it makes the rig looks good, it does actually record great sound. I'm also recording audio with a wired lav mic with a audio recorder hanging in front of the speaker, I can get a master audio track for synchronization in post.

Recording Good Sound at Event | L.A. Color Blog

Slider
I really like the effect done by the Slider. However, at a short event like that, I don’t have a lot of time to get the slider to be used. Used it twice only.

Battery
As a guy selling batteries, using a lot of the LP-E8 battery is not a concern at all. I have 12 batteries all fully charged. At the end of the night, used 10 and 2 left. So I need more if I don't want to hunt for outlet to charge battery throughout the day.

Memory Card
I have ten Sandisk class 6 16GB card. Used up 9 of them at the end of the night. Of course I have 4 more backup SD cards that I didn’t open yet. Now I know I need to get even more to prepare for a full day wedding.

Copying footage takes about 15 minutes for each card. Compared to the realtime capturing in the DV/HDV days, it saves me a lot of time. In the old days after a full day wedding, I have about 15 to 20 tapes. That always take 2 to 4 days just to capture them.

Steadicam
Since I have a Merlin steadicam already, it is not on my investment list. I have a t2i on battery grip (must use battery grip because the merlin plate blocked the battey door). The added weight surprisingly makes the merlin balance way much better. Later on, I added a Tokina 11-16mm lens. It balances even better till almost perfect. I have never been so happy of my Merlin with HV30. Now the whole setup won’t sway. The Tokina lens rocks too in low light!

Lens
I am using a Caon 18-135mm lens on the B-cam. It is good enough at 18mm with aperture f/3.5. Since the b-roll is mostly at wide zoom out all the time, it captures bright scenes. On my main cam, I am using a Sigma 18-250mm, f/3.5-6. It performs poorly at zoom. However, I do need the zoom range and I have the Comer 1800 lights to fill. It works even better than my XH-A1 with the 20x zoom.

The Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 is a solid super wide angle lens. It's perfect to be used with Merlin to achieve cool close up feel. It's pricey but totally worth it.

External Monitior
The big 7" screen Lilliput monitor makes it much easier to focus. However, there is one big problem. T2i HDMI output switches from HD to SD after the record movie button is pressed. Because of the switch of signal, the monitor screen goes blank for 3 to 5 seconds. I have to guess or just wait for the screen to come back om. It’s a bit annoying but I can get over it. Also, the screen is much brighter in default mode. Some of the recorded footage turned out much darker. I will need to lower the brighness of the screen to match the actual output.

*****

Overall, I would say the shooting was a success. It won’t be perfect but it’s a good start. I love the DSLR output with the shallow depth of field that I could never achieve with my Xh-A1. There’re all these limitations to deal with but I can manage it. .. and there're still so much more to learn. =)
 
Thank you for sharing this!

My sister's wedding is in April, and I am most likely doing the videowork (with my 7D; don't have an A-camera lined up yet for the ceremony), so this was a huge help.

Cheers.
 
Glad I can help.

Oh, with the overheat issue and 12-minute limit, you got to shoot with a second cam. otherwise, your sister might not talk to you anymore. :)
 
Thanks for the info. I will be doing my cousins wedding (my 1st time) in November so I'm preparing the equipment I need and trying to get some practice.
How did you find the the 7" screen? I am thinking about getting one for my T2i as well but it's $200+ (yes, still cheaper than a pro LCD screen). I will not be using FF but rather a cheap DIY solution with a rubber jar opener around the focus ring. When the LCD is in SD mode, is it easy to focus or does it look fuzzy?
 
If you will listen to my advise, forget about any kind of FF, unless you don't plan to do much zooming in and out. Only get the focus gear from Jag35.com will work. It's only $29 per ring. it's a good deal.

I have tried the SD LCD monitor from LCD4video for about $200. It's not useful and practical because it is in SD interlaced quality. Low quality to begin with. Can't help much in focusing. narrow viewing angle. also, it comes with a break out cable from 1 to all kinda of connection. You will have to find a way to hide those cables. It connects to the RCA video out from the camera so there is no switching of HD->SD during recording. The battery adapter is another thing I don't know how to tie to the rig.

The Lilliput monitor on the other hand is a much higher quality in terns or resolution and viewing angle. But the HDMI switching issue with T2i is annoying. Even switching to SD because of its progressive nature, it still make focusing a lot easier.

I am able to get a good deal on the Lilliput monitor. Contact me at info@lacolorshop.com for more info.
 
I have the Canon 18-135mm for the B-cam (that comes with the t2i lens kit).

For the main cam, it is the sigma 18-250mm f/3.5 - 6 lens. You can see it here

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=219836

those lenses are probably not the best idea to use... especially kit stuff...primarily because of lighting conditions, and if there is concern - the quality. it is best to stick to prime lenses when working in video mode on DSLR's and always use fast ones (nothing over 2.8...3.5 - 6 is bad!) zooms are great when shooting live events sometimes, since it could be difficult with primes, but even then something like 70-200 2.8.
 
I'm well aware of that. But as a start, I also have to keep an eye on my budget. Buying all those things at one time cost me over $7000 already.

I bought the 18-135mm lens kit on purpose for the B-cam knowing it will be used at wide most of the time. So f3.5 will be acceptable. Then I bought the Sigma 18-250mm for the all purpose zoom as I don't want to change lens. Knowing I have Comer lights to work together, I wouldn't worry about the aperture in low light. it turns out, it perform similarly to my Xh-A1. I'm actually quite happy with the Sigma with such great zoom range.

I don't mind start with crappy lenses. I'm sure you all agree it will be a bad idea for someone to buy his/her first car a Mercedes. There're always room to improve and grow. Then I will appreciate what I was missing.
 
After the first hour, I already noticed it is useless to use the Follow Focus. The reason is, after I zoom, I don’t have enough time to move my hand from the zoom ring to the FF to adjust for a good focus. For live event, it just impossible. I trained myself to adjust the zoom ring with my thumb and index finger. Then adjust the focus immediately with the ring finger. Therefore, the FF is not necessary. The focus ring GEAR is necessary for such quick and accurate moment.

Finally someone brought that up. I found this to be the same experience. It might look cool but.. yeah same thoughts here.

Besides once you get used to focusing without a follow focus it's no big deal. It would be helpful though if working on a film with a focus puller.
 
ha! I'm glad someone will agree with me. The FF is still such a cool gear but it will more be for film shooting. For live event like weddings, it's just impossible to adjust zoom and focus with FF fast enough. =)
 
Taky, with the 11-16, did you prefer having the lens at 11 or 16 end? I would imagine that 11 might be a little extreme with all the distortions and might not look so good?
 
After I finish building my first prototype rig - with every inch of gear you can think of - one thing I'm going to look into is putting the focus and the zoom in the control of your hands at the handlebars. It would be something like a lever or a button you always keep your thumbs on (we'll say left thumb for Focus and right for Zoom) and you just press to make it focus/zoom.

It would be perfect for live events where the movements need to be quick, but a little delay or sudden jerk in the focusing/zooming process is excusable in live events, not in narrative films.

It would probably have to be something like a really sensitive analog motor driving a gear-based FF system that responds to the amount of force you exert on the lever/button/thingy, and the same used for zooming. Of course, if you were using an older goofy lens, like the Vivitar, Albinar, or other lenses with the push-pull zoom ring, the setup would have to be even more complex to pull off an electric zoom.

Just throwing ideas around! I intend to conquer this one day with the more standardized lens designs. I have the DIY fever right now :D
 
Taky, with the 11-16, did you prefer having the lens at 11 or 16 end? I would imagine that 11 might be a little extreme with all the distortions and might not look so good?

I'm using the 11mm max wide. It's not extreme consider the crop factor. 11-16 translate to 17.6mm-25.6mm. Thus 17.6mm wide is pretty cool!
 
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