My AF102 has suddenly gone dark

ok, If we are going to get to the bottom of this we will need to perform some measurable tests. Do you have a light meter? That way we could make a comparison between your camera under a specific amount of light at a set fstop, iso, and shutter speed. If you don't have a light meter, perhaps you have a DSLR that you could use to give you a base reading, and perhaps someone on the thread will have the same DSLR and we can start making comparisons.
 
tacotim said:
ok, If we are going to get to the bottom of this we will need to perform some measurable tests. Do you have a light meter? That way we could make a comparison between your camera under a specific amount of light at a set fstop, iso, and shutter speed. If you don't have a light meter, perhaps you have a DSLR that you could use to give you a base reading, and perhaps someone on the thread will have the same DSLR and we can start making comparisons.
Click to expand...

No, sorry. No light meter. A friend has a Nikon SLR that I might be able to borrow, if that's any help. It doesn't do video, though.
 
I'm sure the is a button combination for a master reset, but it's not in the manual. Probably something a Panasonic technician would know. I'm sure you will be on the phone with them first thing mon morning.
 
Ed Kishel said:
I'm sure the is a button combination for a master reset, but it's not in the manual. Probably something a Panasonic technician would know. I'm sure you will be on the phone with them first thing mon morning.
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Hi,
I'll try to start sorting it out tomorrow morning. I had wondered about a reset feature. I'm afraid that the sensor has been damaged or some such (though by what I don't know).
 
Hi all,

I know it's a bit random, but if anyone in Canberra, Australia has an AF102 who would be willing to spare a few minutes to do a comparison - same room, same light, same scene file etc, could you let me know? I've contacted the dealer where I purchased this, but if it's just user error, I'd rather know and be embarrassed than have to ship it off only to have it come back the same.
 
I may have missed this in having only skimmed this thread, but . . . do you have (or have access to) a m43 lens (ala Panasonic Lumix)?
Seems like eliminating both the adapter and lens combo from the camera would answer one basic question.

Also (crazy idea, I know . . . because it should only be completely black if accidently switched to on) but, and forgive me for asking the obvious, is the "lens check" in the menu set to off?

Best.
 
dregenthal said:
I may have missed this in having only skimmed this thread, but . . . do you have (or have access to) a m43 lens (ala Panasonic Lumix)?
Seems like eliminating both the adapter and lens combo from the camera would answer one basic question.
Click to expand...

Hi dregenthal,
Yes, I have the 14-42mm Lumix lens. I haven't used it since it's f3.5, and I figured it would be very dark anyway in "low light". I will test it tonight however.

Also (crazy idea, I know . . . because it should only be completely black if accidently switched to on) but, and forgive me for asking the obvious, is the "lens check" in the menu set to off?

Best.
Click to expand...

I have the "lens check" setting switched to off since I have been using the Canons (which don't communicate with the body). In fact, I think I turned if off (since I started with the Canon lenses) and haven't turned it back on even when using the Lumix lens.
 
evanrm said:
Yes, the iPhone picture is rubbish. Keep in mind it's a particularly bad picture, due in large part to my poor skills at taking a non-shaky image. The room isn't that lowly lit...

...That's rather unhelpful. If it is user error, then what's the answer?
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The iPhone picture is grainy, & shaky, due to low light, not due to your technique. Your screen grabs are most likely dark because your camera's ISO isn't set high enough. Sorry if I'm wrong, but it seems your guessing exposure instead of using any of the camera's various built-in exposure tools, which is folly.

I'd fully expect a room lit by a pair of CFLs, & a fire, to need high ISO, &/or fast glass, so think there is nothing wrong with your camera.

Try the same scene, & lighting, but raise your ISO until the majority of the waveform runs horizontally through the middle of the screen. That should be close to the exposure you'll need for such a flat scene. Also note the exposure bar. Is it showing underexposure at your previous settings? How about Zebras? If you have access to someone with fair skin try setting a zebra to 70%, & have them stand in the middle of your scene, then raise your ISO till it just starts to show on their skin. In lieu of a fair skinned model you could just use the palm of your hand as the target (no joke intended).

I suggest you buy a copy of Barry Green's AF100 book, it's a great resource, & in the mean time, consider reading the section of the OEM manual on exposure.

Best,
Bern
 
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evanrm said:
Hi all,

I know it's a bit random, but if anyone in Canberra, Australia has an AF102 who would be willing to spare a few minutes to do a comparison - same room, same light, same scene file etc, could you let me know? I've contacted the dealer where I purchased this, but if it's just user error, I'd rather know and be embarrassed than have to ship it off only to have it come back the same.
Click to expand...

Tets: Why dont you take the camera out side where there is an abundance of light? Use the camera at default at maybe 400 ISO.
 
Bern Caughey said:
Your screen grabs are most likely dark because your camera's ISO isn't set high enough. Sorry if I'm wrong, but it seems your guessing exposure instead of using any of the camera's various built-in exposure tools, which is folly.
Click to expand...

That is correct.

I'd fully expect a room lit by a pair of CFLs, & a fire, to need high ISO, &/or fast glass, so think there is nothing wrong with your camera.
Click to expand...

Ahh, well. If that had been suggested I would have known.

Try the same scene, & lighting, but raise your ISO until the majority of the waveform runs horizontally through the middle of the screen. That should be close to the exposure you'll need for such a flat scene.
Click to expand...

Okay, so the horizontal line is what I should be looking for here?

I suggest you buy a copy of Barry Green's AF100 book, it's a great resource, & in the mean time, consider reading the section of the OEM manual on exposure.
Click to expand...

I have the book, although I have not had time to read it fully.

As it happens, I consulted the dealer where I purchased the camera, and was suggested that I do a reset in
Menu > other functions > init (I think).

After doing this, the image improved considerably. I most likely misapplied a setting, although I cannot for the life of me think what it was. I haven't been able to replicate it as yet.

Thanks for all the kind words and help.
 
Shooter said:
Tets: Why dont you take the camera out side where there is an abundance of light? Use the camera at default at maybe 400 ISO.
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Hi Shooter,

I did try that, and it appeared to be okay. I was mostly worried since I hadn't seen it so dark before. I had previously been up at the lookout shooting a timelapse of an incoming storm (it wasn't raining, so that wasn;t an issue), and I was worried that something had gone wrong.

However, battlestations can be unmanned. I did a reset as suggested by the dealership, and the image has improved considerably. I most likely changed some setting without realising it, or set something and then didn't set it back. I haven't yet replicated the issue.

Thanks for the much appreciated help and kind words.

Evan
 
Evan, can you share the "secret" you were given about how to reset the camera? It might make a useful addition to everyone's "bag of tricks" for working with the AF100.

- Greg
 
Greg Smith said:
Evan, can you share the "secret" you were given about how to reset the camera? It might make a useful addition to everyone's "bag of tricks" for working with the AF100.

- Greg
Click to expand...

Hi Greg,
As Bern notes, it's "Menu > Other Functions > Init Menus" (or thereabouts). I'm not sure the extent of what it actually does, seeing as how it says "init menus", but it certainly fixed up whatever issue I was having. I am not sure if there is a "master reset" as such (although maybe that is functional equivalent).
 
evanrm said:
... but it certainly fixed up whatever issue I was having. I am not sure if there is a "master reset" as such (although maybe that is functional equivalent).
Click to expand...

We had a cameraperson needlessly reset a AF100 five minutes before we were to roll, & it was an ugly scramble getting it back up to speed. Even the Producers noticed, & you never want anyone seeing you sweet.

Evan,

Here's an PSA that was shot at your setting, f/2.8 at 180 degrees, except the ISO was 800, & there were a dozen lights burning. The lights were dimmed, or diffused, & I feel the levels should have been higher, as the sensor would have liked more light, but it's still a somewhat useful comparison to your test at ISO 200.

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?252870-American-Heart-Association-PSA

Best,
Bern
 
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