Micro Gimbal for GH4, BMPCC, A7s - $699 USD

OK... thanks.

Do you think you can rid of the vettical bumps (up & down) movements ?
This is the only annoying thing with this gimbal.
 
MattRozier said:
Any thoughts guys on the bmpcc + speedbooster + 11-16 combination? Possible? Or too front heavy?
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Mine arrives todays and I will be seeing if it can handle the GH4+speedbooster+ 11-16 with the camera mounted to the gimbal on the speedbooster. I am presuming that this set up will put the camera too far back to get it balanced and will restrict movement but I will let you know. The BMPCC is even lighter meaning it will need to be set even further back to balance properly as well.
 
TheDingo said:
Eric Naso attached his gimbal to a Manfrotto Fig-Rig to deal with this issue...

Nebula 4000 Lite First Impressions And Hands On Review
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Its good that there is a reasonable solution for the way the Nebula handles vertical motion but it kind of defeats the purpose of having a small gimbal. Once you attach it to something the size of a fig rig you might as well get something like the Came 7800.

As Dustylens already noted this gimbal is ideally used for short movement sequences. The vertical movement is reasonably small and can easily be fixed with a little work in post if you need to shoot longer sequences and are particular about getting rid of that movement. The second or third generation of this class of gimbals will likely show huge improvements in managing the vertical/up-down movement that the Nebula displays. That being said I think it is amazing what you can do today with this simple, small inexpensive gimbal.
 
True North said:
Its good that there is a reasonable solution for the way the Nebula handles vertical motion but it kind of defeats the purpose of having a small gimbal. Once you attach it to something the size of a fig rig you might as well get something like the Came 7800.

As Dustylens already noted this gimbal is ideally used for short movement sequences. The vertical movement is reasonably small and can easily be fixed with a little work in post if you need to shoot longer sequences and are particular about getting rid of that movement. The second or third generation of this class of gimbals will likely show huge improvements in managing the vertical/up-down movement that the Nebula displays. That being said I think it is amazing what you can do today with this simple, small inexpensive gimbal.
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Maybe they could work on a 4 axis gimbal?

A note to any possible gimbal makers out there if you are reading this thread. Design a gimbal with the idea of the Nebula 4000. Improve the way you make adjustments with tool less set ups. Replaceable battery. Carry a weight of up to 2 pounds (just needs larger motors). Add a 4th axis to solve up and down movement. You can charge us up to $1500 or so and you would have a winner in a hot seller. And last but not least, have great customer service.
 
...like this one ?

Regarding the N4000 IMHO the best bet is to attach weight below the gimbal. More inertia, up/down movements should be smoothed.
 
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Hey Focuspulling (Mr Moon). About the no need to calibrate the gimbal. You might wanna read Dan Chung's article about the device. The one in which I'm mentioned twice because I helped him out. He even had a technician from Filmpower come out and tune his gimbal, which didn't work out so well. But in the end, Dan and I found that one persons settings will not necessarily work on another device. Which is why when I post some settings, they are just a guide or a starting point to input values into another gimbal. But you go on stating that there is no need to get into the software if it pleases you.
http://www.newsshooter.com/2014/12/30/nebula-4000-lite-the-gimbal-for-the-run-and-gun-shooter/
 
gregory weisert said:
thanks for your answer!
but what would you think about focal lengths around 28-35mm? which makes a 56/70mm on the gh4. because i dont like that very wide shot look. a more "normal" FOV is what i look for. any problems with jitters etc. with that?
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I tested this this morning and on the 12-35mm Lumix, I went from 12 to 25mm without changing a thing in balance and it was good. I then zoomed into 35mm (70mm eqiv.) and moved the camera back on the tray to balance tilt and it was good :cheesy: Lets just say that it works.
 
dustylense said:
I tested this this morning and on the 12-35mm Lumix, I went from 12 to 25mm without changing a thing in balance and it was good. I then zoomed into 35mm (70mm eqiv.) and moved the camera back on the tray to balance tilt and it was good :cheesy: Lets just say that it works.
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thanks for that. could you post some footage at 25/35mm ..5-10secs or so.?
 
Dugdale said:
Here is my latest test from today.
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Looks good Doug. Keep in mind that the tilt PID is super important too. Also, when panning or rotating, use your body to move the camera. Imagine a 2x4 across your back and somebody is guiding your body left of right like handle bars. Next up is setting your deadband tolerances :-)
 
dustylense said:
Looks good Doug. Keep in mind that the tilt PID is super important too. Also, when panning or rotating, use your body to move the camera. Imagine a 2x4 across your back and somebody is guiding your body left of right like handle bars. Next up is setting your deadband tolerances :-)
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Thanks for all of your help Dusty! This thread has been an enormous resource. I've found out that I really need to find my technique. Do you think the exercises in this steadicam video crossover to a handheld gimbal too?

 
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