Finally had time to pull out my N4000. So far with initial balancing it is near perfect. Even the pan balance is dead on!! Moved screws to second (middle) hole. Using a GH4 (eyepiece removed) and Oly 12mm f2 lens. Tomorrow I will look at PID settings. A big thanks to Dusty, Erik, Dave and everyone who has blazed the trail.
Micro Gimbal for GH4, BMPCC, A7s - $699 USD
- Thread starter HHL
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dustylense
Veteran
I'm uploading a new video showing the effects of the deadband tuning and a little gift for PullingFocus(dot)com (H.Paul Moon). Stay tuned.
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True North
Well-known member
I find the panning on this unit to be even better than most tripod pans. Depending on your settings it looks like it pans fairly steady and slow even if your own hand movements aren't perfect.
gregory weisert
Member
@dustylense first of all my highest appreciation that you share your experiences with the nebula to us.
what would you say is the longest focal lenght to use with gimbals like the nebula 4000? and did you try to load more than 1kg on the gimbal to see if the motors are still running and working fine?
i have an iscorama pre36 anamorphot that i would love to use on my gh4 with the nebula 4000. but i guess with the taking lens(even though it is around 130g - so very light) i will get over the 1kg. because the anamorphot is around the same weight as the gh4.. :/
best
gregry
what would you say is the longest focal lenght to use with gimbals like the nebula 4000? and did you try to load more than 1kg on the gimbal to see if the motors are still running and working fine?
i have an iscorama pre36 anamorphot that i would love to use on my gh4 with the nebula 4000. but i guess with the taking lens(even though it is around 130g - so very light) i will get over the 1kg. because the anamorphot is around the same weight as the gh4.. :/
best
gregry
dustylense
Veteran
Absolutely. And that is the trick with this device. Although it will never replace them, you can simulate a tripod, crane and slider all in this little wonder. Minus shots with longer focal lengths that is. But I have no problems going from 12 to 25mm on the gh4 w/ 12-35.
dustylense
Veteran
Honestly the Gh4 with the 12-35 is pushing the upper limits of the gimbal. The other issue is that the camera has to sit back so far on the sled that it leaves little room between the gimbal and camera to do certain moves. The A7s really fits on this gimbal so much better. But I love my Gh4 a bit more than the A7s.
You might be able to get more weight on the gimbal and power up the motors. But going too far could damage them and burn them out.
gregory weisert
Member
thanks for your answer!
but what would you think about focal lengths around 28-35mm? which makes a 56/70mm on the gh4. because i dont like that very wide shot look. a more "normal" FOV is what i look for. any problems with jitters etc. with that?
but what would you think about focal lengths around 28-35mm? which makes a 56/70mm on the gh4. because i dont like that very wide shot look. a more "normal" FOV is what i look for. any problems with jitters etc. with that?
dustylense
Veteran
Well any jitters you would have would magnify. But I'll give the 12-35 @ 35mm a go and report back.
dustylense
Veteran
Alright, so we have seen what the gimbal can do with a couple popular cameras. We've seen some cool mounting tricks too. Lots of talk about the balance and the PID settings (and some talk about not going into the PID's). Again, if you want this gimbal to perform, you should get into the PID's and software to get the best out of the gimbal.
So yesterday and today I was making more profiles. The one thing I needed to get right was the "Deadband" settings. For my I want the gimbal to pan and tilt smoothly. When tracking in a shot I see lots of examples where the operator tries to slightly pan the camera and you see an obvious correction. Adjusting the deadband is what compensates for that. And it's really good for fast action panning to adjust the deadband as you will see in this video.
In this video I raised the deadband for both profile 1 and 2 (I don't really use P3). For those of you with this gimbal you find this adjustment in the "follow mode" tab of the software.
Its an adjustment that you set for your taste. No right or wrong. I adjusted the deadband for this video to get smoother pans, especially in quick movement as you will see. So some shots are slow typical gimbal shots and then they get more violent and quick. Lets just say I would have a very hard time doing these moves with a full size gimbal. So another plus for the size and design for the N4000.
At the end of the video is in response to Focuspulling and I quote from a couple of his posts, "Seems like you should finally, ya know, create something, instead of walking in circles around cars in front of your house in the 'burbs." and " turn your attention away from "gitters" and learn about fundamentals in exposure and color balance".
The end of the video is for you H. Paul....
https://vimeo.com/115549075
So yesterday and today I was making more profiles. The one thing I needed to get right was the "Deadband" settings. For my I want the gimbal to pan and tilt smoothly. When tracking in a shot I see lots of examples where the operator tries to slightly pan the camera and you see an obvious correction. Adjusting the deadband is what compensates for that. And it's really good for fast action panning to adjust the deadband as you will see in this video.
In this video I raised the deadband for both profile 1 and 2 (I don't really use P3). For those of you with this gimbal you find this adjustment in the "follow mode" tab of the software.
Its an adjustment that you set for your taste. No right or wrong. I adjusted the deadband for this video to get smoother pans, especially in quick movement as you will see. So some shots are slow typical gimbal shots and then they get more violent and quick. Lets just say I would have a very hard time doing these moves with a full size gimbal. So another plus for the size and design for the N4000.
At the end of the video is in response to Focuspulling and I quote from a couple of his posts, "Seems like you should finally, ya know, create something, instead of walking in circles around cars in front of your house in the 'burbs." and " turn your attention away from "gitters" and learn about fundamentals in exposure and color balance".
The end of the video is for you H. Paul....
gregory weisert
Member
that would be great!!
dustylense
Veteran
I've got 17 more years worth of them. Those are just the past 3 months (actually there are about 100 more in the last 3 months).
MattRozier
Member
Hi there,
HUGE thanks to you all for your research so far, it's incredibly helpful and insightful.
Just wondering if anyone has tried the following setup on this gimbal?
A bmpcc + speedbooster + tokina 11-16
or
bmpcc + speedbooster + sigma 18-35
I know a lot more research has gone into the A7s and GH4 on this fella, but I'd love to hear more from any bmpcc owners as to whether either of these setups work, or could work, if so I'll probably jump on board too!
Again thanks to all!
HUGE thanks to you all for your research so far, it's incredibly helpful and insightful.
Just wondering if anyone has tried the following setup on this gimbal?
A bmpcc + speedbooster + tokina 11-16
or
bmpcc + speedbooster + sigma 18-35
I know a lot more research has gone into the A7s and GH4 on this fella, but I'd love to hear more from any bmpcc owners as to whether either of these setups work, or could work, if so I'll probably jump on board too!
Again thanks to all!
focuspulling
Active member
Thanks, I'll take a closer look and see where it's coming from. I remember on the CAME 7800 that some screws were loose upon delivery of the unit, so it's worth checking each one methodically for tightness as a general practice (I learned the hard way).
focuspulling
Active member
Thanks for checking it out without the surrounding genteel garnishes. I don't see jitters of any creative consequence and moreover was stepping through water and across rocks in haste: this thing is sort of magical but not metaphysical, leaving a certain stubborn presumption here, that any flaw is a PID issue, inherently short-sighted.
Some people come here to socialize, and egoes get invested in matters of no personal consequence. Pretty typical stuff. Meanwhile others with busy lives embrace shared samples to whatever extent they're utilitarian, and whenever not: life is short!
Because most cases don't require it, already optimal. Might be a fun hobby, though, if you enjoy dealing in hypos.
I do feel sorry for you now, having seen it. Get your confidence back up somehow (real). Sorry for all the pink noise (setting aside blame) to everyone else engaged in this thread. It's turned into a funeral wake and best to forget.
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dustylense
Veteran
The A7s does fit better on the gimbal. Take the eye piece of so you can have full movement of the gimbal.
Kraut69
Well-known member
$699 USD, and it was free shipping anywhere to the world, always need to confirm that. They should be keeping stock in the US as production ramps up, so no chance of customs. And although their website before had references to New York, correspondence has been from CA, and one CA person reported he was charged sales tax.
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M. Gilden
Canon DSLR Moderator
Dave- interesting choice of lens on the front. What is that?