Micro Gimbal for GH4, BMPCC, A7s - $699 USD
- Thread starter HHL
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Andrew Gupta
Active member
The cables are fine, the software works (I've tested windows and android), and the battery is fine.
I have yet to reach the "sweet spot" with this stabilizer -- but -- after having been through both "official" Steadicam and Glidecam training over the past decade -- I entirely understand that this stuff takes more than two days of refinement. I can tell any of you that the results, so far, are better than two or three days with Steadicam anything.
Stabilizer anything takes time, refinement, and practice. Any conclusion after two or three days does not serve you -- the reader.
I can report that this device is better than handheld anything (even with crappy balancing) -- especially with a CMOS sensor. And, if you're tracking a subject, the footage is entirely usable. I always test these things against footage that tracks nothing -- and in that context -- I'm still seeking the "sweet spot." And -- in that context -- it's still better than anything handheld. That's the truth.
I have yet to reach the "sweet spot" with this stabilizer -- but -- after having been through both "official" Steadicam and Glidecam training over the past decade -- I entirely understand that this stuff takes more than two days of refinement. I can tell any of you that the results, so far, are better than two or three days with Steadicam anything.
Stabilizer anything takes time, refinement, and practice. Any conclusion after two or three days does not serve you -- the reader.
I can report that this device is better than handheld anything (even with crappy balancing) -- especially with a CMOS sensor. And, if you're tracking a subject, the footage is entirely usable. I always test these things against footage that tracks nothing -- and in that context -- I'm still seeking the "sweet spot." And -- in that context -- it's still better than anything handheld. That's the truth.
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focuspulling
Active member
Agreed, he's really creeping me out.
1. Do you know what a blog is? I don't currently have one.
2. "You're" theoretical perception of "gitters" is past the point of Freudian anal-retentive diagnosis (and minimum standards in grammar for that matter).
3. I use SimpleBGC for tuning my CAME 7800. It's not necessary for my use of the NEBULA 4000 Lite, and I don't have time to goof around as a hobbyist for no practical creative benefit.
Suggestion: turn your attention away from "gitters" and learn about fundamentals in exposure and color balance.
Yep, on this, your misunderstanding of a question posed by someone else, and then my peaceful correction, was the genesis of your whole tantrum that has by now gone creepy. Starting to pity you, and wishing you a better New Year of letting go whatever's burning you up inside with rage. Any creative success with gear like this is something I'll celebrate, while life is way too short for accommodating the classic insecure nitpicking male ego.
Moving away from the schoolyard, what's starting to worry me about this thing is a perceived looseness between the handle and the bottom axis, that seems to rock the whole rig into either of two positions just a tiny bit apart as I tilt (even as it's balanced perfectly). Wondering if it's something loose, or a sort of harmless physical illusion (though it seems to have gotten worse over time, albeit not enough to affect quality of capture).
No, it's mainly you. Dustylense has been contributing on this forum year after year, with his own particular and direct style, yes, but also being more helpful than anyone could ask. I'm grateful for his efforts.
Many of your posts however, contain disingenuous and manipulative elements, looking for whatever angle you can to score a point. Geez, you even used my post to do it. And that's to say nothing of you going outside this forum to belittle this discussion and its contributors.
I do wish that you would rise above it...so much of the info on this thread is gold, and generally speaking this is such a positive community.
I agree with StMad, I've read the whole thread and focuspulling really seems the more childish/condescending here, by far.
We're in a technical thread and dustylense always replied with detailed technical arguments, focuspulling keeps attacking on things that are absolutely not related to the topic discussed here. Not only is it irrelevant, it also shows serious lack of maturity/understanding of the subject.
We're in a technical thread and dustylense always replied with detailed technical arguments, focuspulling keeps attacking on things that are absolutely not related to the topic discussed here. Not only is it irrelevant, it also shows serious lack of maturity/understanding of the subject.
That's right, you don't have one, you have two ( hpaulmoon.com "MoonBlog" and facebook.com/focuspulling "A blog about the technology of independent filmmaking" ). Common...
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Andrew Gupta
Active member
Me too. Let's all learn that "ignore" feature DVXuser offers and figure out the best this gimbal can do.
homestar_kevin
Well-known member
I think the rock climbing video is a cool piece and certainly a nice find/interesting subject.
The footage looks good, and if anything it has me very interested/ready to pull the trigger on the Olympus 9-18
There are jitters all over it. Not big, not terrible, but they are there.
The footage looks good, and if anything it has me very interested/ready to pull the trigger on the Olympus 9-18
There are jitters all over it. Not big, not terrible, but they are there.
Erik Naso
Veteran
I'm glad your copy is "fine" I'm not sure what you are saying here. I hope your not implying I don't have these issue.
I also tested the software on a PC with the same results of not being able to change the settings. I have a defective unit.
Dugdale
Member
Here is some footage and a problem and solution that I found.
Here is my blog post about this video.
Here is my blog post about this video.
Erik Naso
Veteran
Run and gun with a gimbal?
dustylense
Veteran
Good stuff Doug.
About that listing to the side and two minute warm up. My thinking is that you are going from warm to cool to warm to near freezing and this is where you should do the 4 button and 5 button calibrations because of the various temperatures your operating in. Here in California where it's pretty much a constant temperature year round my copy of the gimbal levels immediately. The motors will be affected by temperature change and altitude change. Which is why there is a gyro calibration feature.
Try this. Stay inside in a constant temp and see if the gimbal is listing. Then run the onboard calibration of the sensor (4 button push to tell the board what is level) then run the calibration of the Gyro (5 button push to tell the motors whats up) turn it off and use the Gh4 leveler and see if it levels quicker. Then, go outside for a bit and let the snow cool down the gimbal and come back inside and turn it off and back on to see if the cold is affecting the unit.
Also, you might wanna look at the "I" setting in the PID's for the roll axis. That is the value that controls the speed at which the motor adjust to level. Obviously too high a setting is not always good. But maybe raising it to 0.04 or even 0.05. I'm on 0.03 but again, I'm in California, where we pay for our constant weather.
That sucks Erik that your unit failed. Feel free to contact me if you ever wanna use mine on a shoot and I will Fed-Ex it down to SD before you drop cash on something that might have you hesitant in buying.
About that listing to the side and two minute warm up. My thinking is that you are going from warm to cool to warm to near freezing and this is where you should do the 4 button and 5 button calibrations because of the various temperatures your operating in. Here in California where it's pretty much a constant temperature year round my copy of the gimbal levels immediately. The motors will be affected by temperature change and altitude change. Which is why there is a gyro calibration feature.
Try this. Stay inside in a constant temp and see if the gimbal is listing. Then run the onboard calibration of the sensor (4 button push to tell the board what is level) then run the calibration of the Gyro (5 button push to tell the motors whats up) turn it off and use the Gh4 leveler and see if it levels quicker. Then, go outside for a bit and let the snow cool down the gimbal and come back inside and turn it off and back on to see if the cold is affecting the unit.
Also, you might wanna look at the "I" setting in the PID's for the roll axis. That is the value that controls the speed at which the motor adjust to level. Obviously too high a setting is not always good. But maybe raising it to 0.04 or even 0.05. I'm on 0.03 but again, I'm in California, where we pay for our constant weather.
That sucks Erik that your unit failed. Feel free to contact me if you ever wanna use mine on a shoot and I will Fed-Ex it down to SD before you drop cash on something that might have you hesitant in buying.
dustylense
Veteran
Sure enough that "right out of the box" ANYBODY is going to get better results stabilizing a camera. Especially if they have limited time or experience with other devices such as a steadicam type of device. There is no doubt to that. Even a poorly balanced camera on the N4000 with no PID adjustments are going to provide particularly better shots and opportunities. At the same time, "right out of the box" will also ruin what could have been a really well stabilized shot. Adjusting the PID's is really not all that hard. I've posted a couple videos that explain how to do it for people that are new to PID adjustments. It's really easier than one might think actually.
Look, when we balance a crane, do we not put the proper weight on the back? How about a steadicam? How about a timing belt on a car? All of these things require calibration. Same thing goes for the N4000. If you want it to work well for you, you need to calibrate it's settings for the performance you expect.
My right out of the box test were alright. But I saw the jitters. A couple of hours in the PID's and the jitters were gone. Easy. Now the device's performance boils down to how steady I can be. I can point it level, straight up or straight down, straight up to straight down, upside down, and back to level as long as my body and arm are relatively steady. I have profiles for the heavier Gh4 in all three modes, the lighter A7s and even the LX100. I also have profiles that I can use to go between the Gh4 and the A7s that gets me 97% great results.
So "IF" the gimbal holds up and doesn't break down it's become a pretty valuable device in my kit. In fact, my DJI Ronin might get really lonely as long as the N4000 keeps going. Although I would love a DJI version of this gimbal that could possibly fly about 3lbs.
So sure, you can get result with the device "right out of the box". But why not get great results digging into the PIDs?
dustylense
Veteran
That is really weird. When I switch mine on it levels in like 1 second.
I just looked at your settings again and they are really low compared to my settings. REALLY low. In fact, lower than my out of the box settings.
Also, that .01 on the "I" setting might just be why your gimbal takes forever to level. My roll "I" setting is .03
Edit: which also leads me to believe that there are variances from gimbal to gimbal.
I was going back and fourth with Dan Chung about some PIDs using the same camera package and we got slightly different results. But in the end I think I got him balanced out pretty good. He even had a N4000 tech come and run his PID's which were off.
Even so, as long as the device holds up and doesn't break, it's a good gimbal and design. And if it does break lets hope that Filmpower or who ever makes this thing has decent customer service. If not, I'm sure it will be vetted right here on DVXuser.
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dustylense
Veteran
Also, what we haven't even been discussed are the "deadband" settings. Not sure why it's taken me so long to even bring it up. It's what makes the performance of the gimbal work for users. Especially in panning. Deadband controls the dampening of the gimbal when in follow mode. If you want the gimbal to pan softer and slower, you increase the deadband and maybe even adjust the curve. Want the gimbal to pan quicker with less force, decrease the deadband. This adjustment it made to suit your style and how you want the gimbal to operate.
I bet FocusPulling has no idea what I'm talking about. I mean, straight out of the box and the gimbal is just brilliant. No need to make any adjustments to suit how you want the gimbal to work for you.
I bet FocusPulling has no idea what I'm talking about. I mean, straight out of the box and the gimbal is just brilliant. No need to make any adjustments to suit how you want the gimbal to work for you.
Erik Naso
Veteran
You sir are a class act!
Filmpower has been very responsive with me and the issues that my copy has. I'm going to send it back so they can see whats going on with it. The good news is I seem to be the only one that has had issues so that's a good sign. I'm hoping they will send it back after they fix it and I can give it another go. From what I've seen so far it really is impressive and I really want one! As for battery life you should get two hours of use before it runs out.