focuspulling
Active member
Take it easy, you're overreacting to a gesture directed at someone else, to refine advice down to only what's needed incrementally. It's misleading to say that "ALL GIMBALS need PID adjustments" as that simply isn't true and can waste tons of time. I'm getting fantastic results on a variety of brushless motorized gimbals from the CAME 7800 to this Nebula 4000 Lite to simpler gear from Big Balance, between a BMPCC and GH4. When you perfectly balance a camera, while prudently matching a lens with modest weight (ideally a pancake, though I've gotten zooms working great), there's a lot of forgiveness around default PID settings. Whereas, there is definitely a drift effect and those four-push and five-push calibration operations are extraordinarily easy first steps when there's a leveling problem. I get it, you spent hours figuring out how to use SimpleBGC, but just like that name, keeping things simple is king.How is telling people WHAT the in gimbal calibration operations actually do "not necessarily helpful advice"? All the push 4 times calibration does is calibrate the sensor attached to the sled. All the push 5 times calibration does is calibrate the gyros according to the input PID values. You would do that in a ambient temperature change or after long uses.
What you gave was "not necessarily helpful advice" telling people to use the sensor calibration and gyro calibration in their hopes to get different results. Which they wouldn't. ALL GIMBALS need PID adjustments to tune for specific camera packages and performance expectation. Calibrating the sensor will only tell the gimbal what is level. Calibrating the gyros only lets the board send the proper power to the gyros from the PID values.
I'm thrilled by the prospect of mass consumer adoption without geeking out folks on PID tuning, if for no other reason than I'm fatigued by shaky cams in indie films and this could be a revolution.

