T2i Magic Lantern for 550D in progress!

I just found out you can only have 9 crop marks total!!!

not that you'd need many more... plus you can have as many as you want on your PC

(plus: I just tweaked the first cropmarks a little bit and changed the name of all the files, so ML could read them properly)
 
Edit: just worked out my ml is not updating to newer versions- menus all stay the same.. Which means the boot disk thing isn't working on my Mac. Soo I'll get a frien to make my cards bootable - as I've been updating the firmware everytime I use it - 100 plus times since first install - so safe to say there's no firmware update counter on the 550d's lol grr - annoying as hell.

Edit two: used a pc to make the cards - result works - sound trigger is great - few ms off but could of been a massive number of things like radio trigger to mirror lift off - thinking sound trigger only for firing flash in bulb mode ? No delay then - instant smashing ?

------


Hi guys - can someone please tell me which build has the sound trigger enabled? I want to smash **** up and have the little 550d take a shot when it hears the smash ! Love to see this expanded with a ms time delay also so u can setup a few 550d's in series to take a shot just ever so slightly delayed from each other as **** gets smashed up :-)

Thanking you ! .. Will be buying more of these bodies just for this now!!
 
Corrected post :

When I go to the HDMI out I lose zebras - my favorite feature.
Also seem to be getting more odd seemingly random lines and patterns disturbing the image including a double histogram.
Is this normal?

Its disappointing for using a little monitor like the Lilliput.

Also peaking ( at least on the hdmi out to Lilliput) seems to have a lot of false positives. Too many to use so far though I haven't checked out all the settings.
Any suggested settings for peaking?
 
Last edited:
Corrected post :
Also peaking ( at least on the hdmi out to Lilliput) seems to have a lot of false positives. Too many to use so far though I haven't checked out all the settings.
Any suggested settings for peaking?

High contrast will show as positive for focus... so plan around that.
 
Also peaking ( at least on the hdmi out to Lilliput) seems to have a lot of false positives.

I've noticed that sometimes I get no yellow dots at all even if my subject is in focus (false negative), but I've never seen dots on things that are out of focus (fase positive)

if you actually mean "false negatives", then it's just a matter of what the peaking code is doing

if I understand it well, it only looks at the luma channel, and not on the whole image (leaves some bands out on the top and sides) and what it does is that it looks on each horizontal line for a big jump in the luminance level from one pixel to the next

so it doesn't consider chroma changes, and doesn't look at vertical differences, and won't tell you whether something is in focus if it is just a smooth, evenly painted surface with no reflections, because it won't find any contrasty edges or tiny detail

even with these limitations, I find it very useful, but maybe that's just because I'm really, really bad at pulling focus myself...
 
That's exactly the way it works.

You can see false positives in Sawomedia's video: http://vimeo.com/18782586
(first is at the very beginning, and then in the window in the back).

A solution to this will be to do a more thorough analysis of the (few) pixels which pass the first test (quick horizontal edge detection). Better operators are (to my knowledge):
- Classic edge detection algorithms (sobel, laplace, canny)
- morphological open/close
- tricks like computing standard deviation over a small area after removing trend...

If you are good at math and can offer a suggestion which does not involve lots of computatins (because the CPU power is very limited), I'd be happy to try to implement it.
 
Thanks, that explains why I got positives on lights in out of focus background.
What about HDMI out issues - losing zebras and random markings?
 
It's not working here. How do I set back the permanent camera change? (Funny enough there isn't even a description on their wikia-page.)
 
It's not working here. How do I set back the permanent camera change? (Funny enough there isn't even a description on their wikia-page.)

yes, they have a description, look here, says:

Put this in magic.cfg to reset the DISKBOOT flag from the camera:
magic.disable_bootdiskf = 1
 
Hey everybody,

HOW DO I SAVE MY SETTINGS?

I installed the magic lantern last week on my T2i, but no matter what I do, I can't save the settings. After I dial in my white balance and all the other settings to my desire, I go to DEBUG menu > Save Config, but nothing I do seems to actually save the settings.

What am I missing? Which button will save the settings?
 
nboyanov, thanks, but that doesn't seem to work for me either. DISP, for me, lowers the values, SET increases the values, but DISP does NOT seem to have an effect on the Save Config option.
 
Expo settings are not saved in config. Camera should remembers them without any additional work. Are you using auto modes?

Try changing other settings (like zebras) and save them, to check if it works.
 
a1ex, I am testing it in video mode, and for photos, only in full Manual. However, it looks like it is automatically saving other changes (such as shutter speed, ISO), but not the WB setting...which is too bad, because every time the camera's LCD turns off (if idle), they reset,

Thanks for you all your help, guys!
 
yes, they have a description, look here, says:

Put this in magic.cfg to reset the DISKBOOT flag from the camera:
magic.disable_bootdiskf = 1

Read that. But that's no description for a non techie. Do I have to delete all other entries and just place this line into magic.cfg or do I have to place it bellow all other entries there? Do I have to copy magic.cfg as sole file on the SD card then? And what do I have to do afterwards? (As my card doesn't get bootable it probably won't help.) Or do I have to run firmware update as well with that magic.cfg file on the SD card? - Questions over questions.

I couldn't make my 16gb-transcend-card bootable with MacBoot. The commandline method isn't well enough explained.


Also: New builds come with a new firmware-files. Will I have to install a firmware update, every time a new build arrives?
 
Back
Top