Lens Advice / Recommendations for the "cinematic' look?

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djanthonyw

Member
Hi, I currently have the 20mm pancake, but I'm currently thinking I need a different lens. I don't know how else to explain it, but I'd like something that will give me a 'cinematic' look.

Some of the lenses that I'm looking at are the Sigma 30mm 1.4 and the Nokton 25mm. If I get something like the Sigma or any other 4/3 lens, what micro adapter do you recommend?

I realized that I need to get an ND filter so that I can keep a wide aperture and low shutter speed (1/50) outside during the day. Maybe this is all that I really want, but basically I just want to do everything with one lens (I like to keep it minimal) and I'm not sure if I need to get a different lens, or just the filter for the look that I'm going for?

One other thing I'm not sure of is if I just want to get the Flycam Nano, or also get a slider to go on my stand? Can I replicate a slider move close enough with the Flycam?
 
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From what I've been reading up on prime lenses, you can't shoot it all with one lens. You need a variety of lenses (from wide to tele) and maybe even one good zoom lens to capture your subjects. Some say the sweet spot for a general shooting lens with a shallow depth of field "cinema" look (with an ND filter usually... if you save up, you could look into a good variable filter) using the GH2's crop factor is about a 25mm lens. That gives you an approximate 50mm equivalent field of view. This is basing things on a full 35mm frame camera, which the GH2 is not.
 
Thank for the reply. I guess my other question that I forgot to ask is when using the Noktom 25mm or any lens with adapter, do you lose the zoom feature when focusing?
 
I assume by cinematic you mean shallow depth of focus (blurry background). John is right, if you want to use primes you will need a selection. Your 20mm is a wide angle lens. It captures a wider field of view but focuses to infinity after a short distance. More background will be captured relative to the subject thereby making the subject dominant. A normal lens, around 35mm will capture a field of view similar to the eye. Around 50mm the lens will be good for portraits, close ups and medium shots. A portrait lens will give you the look you are after. Around 85mm you'll have a short telephoto. Less background will be captured, with a small aperture you'll be able to bring distant objects closer, with a wide aperture you will get some seriously shallow DOF. Longer telephoto lenses 100mm+ will be more extreme. If you don't want to get a bunch of lenses consider getting a zoom lens.
 
djanthonyw said:
Hi, I currently have the 20mm pancake, but I'm currently thinking I need a different lens. I don't know how else to explain it, but I'd like something that will give me a 'cinematic' look.
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The "lens" won't do it. The "cinematic" look comes from YOU, how well you apply the principles of BASIC PHOTOGRAPHY to portray what's in front of the camera in a way that "captivates" your viewers. Lenses and things you acquire are "tools" that one with a developed sense of vision can use to get their desired results.

The "cinematic" look is something most of us "fixate" on. It is very subjective and has been changing, never remaining the same as motion picture technology has evolved. It is NOT 24fps, NOT 1/48th second shutter speed, it is NOT any gadget you can "get".

It is YOU when you learn what you're doing.

I have that Lumix 20mm f1.7 you have and it can be an extremely capable and useful lens in the hands of one who understands it. It is what I call slightly "wide" normal perspective which can be a help in some interiors, it can do both selective focus (shallow DOF) or quite deep zone of focus depending on aperture selected, distance to subject, and distance from subject to background. These are things you have to learn to manage.

Sharpness can be modified with quality diffusion filters, someone on this site recommends the Tiffen black diffusion #3 to take the extreme crisp edge off skin tones the 20mm on the GH2 can render. I have one but am waiting for an adapter ring before I can fully test it.

djanthonyw said:
I realized that I need to get an ND filter so that I can keep a wide aperture and low shutter speed (1/50) outside during the day. Maybe this is all that I really want, but basically I just want to do everything with one lens (I like to keep it minimal) and I'm not sure if I need to get a different lens, or just the filter for the look that I'm going for?
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I'm having good luck with the Poloroid variable ND from B&H ($34.95 I believe) but be warned the 46mm threads into your lens front threads just fine, but the front threads on it (where I mount a rubber hood) is 49mm (and be sure you order a wide angle hood, the standard will vignette a bit on that lens. The variable makes "dialing" in your exposure a breeze.

I also recommend 2 other lenses when you can go for them. The Lumix 14mm f2.5 for wide angle work, f2.5 is fair for "available light" work and the lens is a crisp sharp performer, the wide angle will tend to have a very deep zone of focus even wide open. The other is the Olympus 45mm f1.8 for portrait telephoto perspective, another very sharp performer with excellent color and inherent contrast. At wider apertures selective focus is easy to achieve by managing working distance.

Know your lenses and what they will do. The other "key" to the "cinematic" look is lighting and composition. I recommend you study up on lighting but learn to recognize what you have to work with in "found" lighting and how it works with facial shapes. A lot of outstanding work is done outdoors by simply trying to get away from direct sunlight (it's harsh) and then moving and turning your people so the existing lighting direction works with their faces. Web tutorials on portrait work will help immeasurably in regard to that.


djanthonyw said:
One other thing I'm not sure of is if I just want to get the Flycam Nano, or also get a slider to go on my stand? Can I replicate a slider move close enough with the Flycam?
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Maybe, maybe not. The slider is often used to "discover" or "uncover" something, the movement distance is very limited. Mine is 2 feet. Most of the stabilizers can be a "bear" to balance. Look into this shoulder mount (under $100), I have a model prior to the DSLR model, and it works well enough if I practice. I'm 73 and best use it standing still but I can pan smoothly and follow action. A "floating" duckwalk can hold it steady enough to follow a walking actor.

Hope this helps.
 
The best results I have had are with vintage lenses. Canon 50mm 1.4 is my favourite.

But it sounds like you're trying to run before you can walk, from your questions.
Do some more research, and just practice, test, and practise.
 
Martti Ekstrand said:
No but you have to invoke it manually. Check the manual on how-to details.
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The Nokton 25mm (and all adapted primes) have no "zoom" feature. Prime lenses are one single fixed focal length. And you generally have to focus manually on the GH2 with them.
 
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Fresno Bob said:
The best results I have had are with vintage lenses. Canon 50mm 1.4 is my favourite.

But it sounds like you're trying to run before you can walk, from your questions.
Do some more research, and just practice, test, and practise.
Click to expand...

I just ordered a 50mm 1.8 fd lenses. Is this similar to yours? Why do you consider it your favorite? isnt it a 100mm lense with the crop factor?
 
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djanthonyw said:
After many hours of consideration, I've decided to go with the Sigma and Kipon adapter. I will be selling my 20mm pancake.
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Get the Sigma and Kipon adapter if you feel you have to.

But I STRONGLY advise you keep the 20mm. The questions you've asked indicate you are not that familiar with lenses in general and "dumping" one that many others find highly desirable, and that works with almost all features of the GH2 is a choice I am sure you will regret.

I finally got the Panasonic Leica DG Summilux 25mm f1.4. Focal length similar to the 20mm but not quite the same perspective. While many do sell off the pancake when they go for the 25mm, I chose to keep it.

When you need to get fairly close to your subject and need lens speed too, there's nothing quite like it.

You have it, I looked at the pictures you shot with it in your ad, and you get good results with it. It's a good basic lens you can depend on. The others you have to adapt to the camera are good as "extra" stuff and you can learn quite a bit with them. But don't give up "basic kit" that works for them.

My two cents worth, but this advice comes from almost 60 years of working with lenses.
 
djanthonyw,

Before you dump that 20mm, check out this shot done with that lens!

http://i.imgur.com/6NPFR.jpg

Granted, it was done with the Lumix 20mm f1.7 on an Olympus OMD E-M5 which does have fantastic high ISO performance but I believe I could have done the same with the GH2 and that pancake.

The photographer saw that about to happen from his vantage point and had to get it fast. Look at the expression on her face even from a distance. In that situation there is no time to "fiddle" with lenses that don't "communicate" with the camera. Yes a pro can make it work. But it would be faster and easier with that pancake.
 
I actually found one of the olympus four thirds mount versions of the Sigma 30mm 1.4, so I ended canceling my order for the canon mount version with the kipon adapter and ordered the four thirds version with the panasonic adapter. Thanks for your input Bruce, but I don't shoot that often and when I do, I'm not really interested in getting unplanned shots of anything.
 
piff said:
I just ordered a 50mm 1.8 fd lenses. Is this similar to yours? Why do you consider it your favorite? isnt it a 100mm lense with the crop factor?
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Yes, it's 100m equivalent on the GH2.

I like it because it's got a nice authentic feel to it, nice punchy colours, but an 'aged' look to it.
When I shoot photos on it, it looks like old 1970's poloroids, and whenI shoot footage on it, if CC'd properly it can give me the look of lovely 1970's filmstock.
 
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