Lekos

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They are very popular and used all the time. A lot of people use them with the jo-Leko attachment and stick 400 or 800w jokers in them.
 
I think David Mullen posted some shots using Lekos in tight spaces. You can setup a bounce panel very close to your talent, shoot a leko in there, and use the shutters to frame the light to exactly fill the panel. Really handy. Great for ceiling bounce in tight spots, too.

They're great for things like music videos or atmospheric stuff where you need solid beams of light in dust or smoke - and you can fake a follow spot look with them. And they're usually easy to find on the used market.

The bulbs have come a long way, too - the old FELs are very bright at 1k - but there are 750's and 575's that put out close to that light, with more modern construction and reflectors.

Great lights to have in your kit.
 
HI,
I used them all the time. It always good to have a few of them, I have them in various beam selections from 36 degrees to 50.
 
David Mullen's video presentation was part of the AbelCine EXPO: Innovations in Lighting. It's very entertaining and informative.

The LEKO is like the red-headed stepchild of production lighting. Some people look at them and think they're only good for theater or lighting big stores and mall outlets. But they are incredibly versatile, functional and deliver huge punch for their power and purchase price. I love 'em.
 
I was thinking of picking one up to start in my small lighting package. What would everyone suggest a good go to beam would be? I know that is hard to answer, but if you have to pick just one angle to start, what would it be. I intend on using it mainly for controlled bounce, adding accents and possibly spot for weddings etc.
 
Yes, but realize that you cannot build a "Jolecko" with an HMI if you purchase the zoom version. The zooms are great if you need a versatile lecko in a tungsten only version.
 
The Source4 full size zooms are beasts. I have 2 and rarely use them because they are so big an heavy. On the other hand, I have 8 Source4 Jr zooms and they get used regularly. They are the same size as a normal Jr so they are not as hard to deal with.
 
greenheron said:
Yes, but realize that you cannot build a "Jolecko" with an HMI if you purchase the zoom version. The zooms are great if you need a versatile lecko in a tungsten only version.
Click to expand...

Actually I have the HID version of the zoom version, which gives me very close to 5600k and of course draws only a fraction of what it actually puts out :happy:
 
Has anyone used both a Leko and a 650w Dedolight? I'm interested in how they compare for beam, control and ease of use.
 
I'm considering buying an ellipsodial. It sounds like the zoom versions are significantly bigger than the fixed lens version so I will stick with a 26 or 19 degree fixed. Now the question is which brand? I'm debating between Strand and ETC. Is there a big difference I should know about?
 
Yeah, looking at the specs, the weight is less and I think they pack a slightly bigger punch. The strands looked popular on the B&H website but I think I'll stick with ETC.

What do i need to mount these to a light stand? Also, do they have a built in dimmer or do I use my external dimmers?
 
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ETC is the most popular brand but there are many manufacturers. Altman is another good one. Many people don't realize that Mole-Richardson makes them as well.

All of the manufacturers have options to buy them with a C-clamp or get a stand mount. Since they are generally designed as theatrical lights, they almost always come with a C-clamp and then you buy the stand mount as an accessory. Don't forget to get some gobo frames as an accessory as well, as they generally are not included. Another interesting thing to note is that because the expectation is that they will be hanging from a grid, they usually only come with a very short power cord, perhaps three feet. You need to specify what if any connector you want on the end. In the US that would likely be an Edison plug. There is no dimmer built in, as again the presumption is that this will be controlled from a dimmer board far away. You could add an inline dimmer to the power but I would suggest just buying or making a dimmer with a plug on one end and a socket on the other. Then you could always use it on any light you want. Don't cheap out on your dimmers -- the cheapo home use ones can often spit out tons of harmonics that will wreak havoc with many wireless mikes.
 
Got my Lekos in. I went with two ETC Source Four Jr zooms and one Source Four 26 degree. They are really great so far!

The only issue I'm having is that I can't find a good case to fit them all in! Ideally I could find a thin, padded, top loading hard case that could hold the three lights. I'm also open to just having a padded case (like a firm padded tripod case) for each light. So far can't find anything that fits though. I don't want to use a husky tough box or gator case as these would be hard to fit in my car (need something that can be layed down and is a little flatter)
 
Just wanted to update this thread. I've determined that a single case for these lights is not practical (maybe for 2 but not for 3) the case winds up being too large. I was considering the Pelican 1690 or a large tough box from home depot (as a cheap alternative) and both these options are just too unmanagable. As far as the link above...that was just a terrible idea. That being said, I found a very nice and affodable solution for each individual leko and it's a great fit. It's a husky toolbox:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-26-in-Long-Handle-Tool-Box-with-Metal-Latches-and-Removable-Tool-Tray-199636/202636067

Only $15 + whatever it takes to put foam or padding in it. The jr's fit great in it. The 750w leko fits but is snug. Now I can just bring as many lights as I need for a shoot without repacking.
 
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