C100: LCD & Viewfinder Settings

Eric Coughlin

Eric Coughlin

Veteran
What do you have your LCD and Viewfinder settings set to and why?

I've been overexposing shots which looked good on the LCD, so I feel like I'm doing something wrong with the LCD settings. I've tried setting the LCD Backlight setting to "Bright" when outdoors and I think that has helped some, but inside it often feels like that's not giving as accurate of a representation of your exposure. I use the Waveform and Zebras as an aid for exposure, but I don't think I understand them enough to use them as more than just an aid.

My settings currently are...

LCD Setup:
Brightness: 0
Contrast: 0
Color: 0
Sharpness: 2
Backlight: Bright

Viewfinder:
Brightness: 0
Contrast: 0
Color: 0
Sharpness: 2
Backlight: Normal

On second thought, I don't think I've re-changed my original settings since doing a firmware update. Playing around here, I came up with...

Brightness: 0
Contrast: 3
Color: 2
Sharpness: 4
Backlight: Bright

I don't know what I'm doing...

Is there a reason you wouldn't want sharpness at 4, and how does LCD contrast, color, and brightness relate to the image that is being recorded? In other words, how do you get it set closest to what is recorded and would you want it to be set closest to what is recorded?
 
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I've turned up the brightness a bit on mine. Definitely shows closer to reality when dialed up a bit.
Trust your WFM more than the LCD image.
 
@Andrius, Hmm - maybe I'll eschew 'accuracy' (ha!) and try this too. However...

If you switch on Bars in-camera, and set the type from EBU to SMPTE, there's a Picture Line Up Generation Equipment (PLUGE or 'plooge' in the UK) pattern on the bottom right. You can lightly tweak the contrast and brightness to get the Pluge looking right (not 3 bars, but just one ever-so-slightly brighter than black), but the colour rendition is totally off - seems to hate skin tones (Oh Sony, you have been spoiling us). I now habitually carry a SmallHD AC7 with me, and am seriously considering a Ninja 2 just to get a better picture when running around. Considering the Ninja 2 screen, that should say a lot for the C100's LCD panel.

FWIW, I did the PLUGE thing, and I played around with peaking settings and all sorts of things and... ended up pretty much back at the defaults. However, I think one ought to be checking the Pluge in hot or cold conditions as temperature may affect the panel? Not sure on this as my shooting conditions are invariably 'temperate'. Others found this?
 
I have my backlight on 'Bright' and turn up the brightness a couple of notches just so I can see, but I dont rely on the LCD for exposure just composition etc.
 
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