AC160 Just received a new AC160-A yesterday

[pifemaster]

SO it still pretty bad at Auto Focus? nothing improved on that ?

Unfortunately, I am a 100% novice at video cameras. I have no experience with the previous version, so I can not compare to it. Based on my own desires, I would like the auto focus to work a little better than it does.

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com

 

[pifemaster]

OK everyone... It's critique time!

After getting my AC160-A last Wednesday, I had the opportunity to shoot some footage at a wedding on Saturday that I was the Disc Jockey at.

http://www.pifemaster.com/blog/shannopin-country-club-pittsburgh-stephen-corina-beatty-wedding/

Here are some of the details:

The Ceremony

• Very sunny day with the ceremony taking place outside in direct sunlight at 4:00 pm
• I set the camera up at the rear of the guests near the center aisle approximately 50 ft from the bride & groom.
• I had a lav mic on the officiant that was amplified through my sound system. The speakers were approximately 40 feet behind me.
• I used the internal mic on full auto & PCM audio.
• Manual White balance. Since I did not have a white balance card, I used the white columns at front of ceremony to balance off of.
• Had ND filter set to max at 1/64
• Manual Iris set around f/4
• Shutter Speed on auto
• Focus on auto

The Reception

• Reception indoors with windows on both sides of the room.
• Again, used internal mic on full auto & PCM audio.
• White balanced using 3200k preset. The room had all incandecent bulbs and I figured that would get me close enough especially since I was using LED color wash lighting on the dance floor that changed colors to the beat of the music.
• Manual iris f stop varied, but mostly wide open.
• As the room got darker +6 on the gain.
• Shutter speed on auto.
• Focus on auto.
• I used an on camera LED light with variable lumen output and color adjustment set to 3200K.

The Render

• I shot everything in 1080/60p - PS mode
• Rendered to 1080/60P
• Rendered using Sony Vegas & an older computer. (just order a new computer to run CS6 production premium)

One thing that I know I screwed up is during the start of the ceremony, I had the friction on my Manfrotto 502 head set way too loose. The slightest touch allowed the camera to move. I even tried to adjust the friction while recording and this added to the movement in the video. I will have to play with the adjustment to get it where it needs to be.

Also, notice at around 10:50 - 11:30 when I zoomed in, the auto focus got a little hoaky.

So... fire away. Let me know what I can do to improve. I want to learn & get better.

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com

 

[The Irish TRex]

Nice work for your first time out. We're you DJ'ing while you were filming too? That's a lot to take care of all at once. Ha!

Nothing is better than just going out there and shooting like you did. You probably learned more just by doing that than you would have by watching or reading all about "how" to do it. Everything looked nicely exposed, etc. I would recommend just a few things based on my experience (I'm a Wedding Videographer here in LA). First, with one camera you are limited to certain angles, etc. so you did a great job of at least putting the camera in the best position for the Ceremony. I would however recommend that you get familiar with Manual focus. Set your focus meter to display in ft and keep an eye one what distance is in focus at any point in time. During a Ceremony, the action is pretty much all in one place so I'd recommend zooming all the way in on where the officiant/couple will be and then when its in focus, switch to manual. Then zoom out and no matter what you do you won't have the focus issues you had during that one minute sequence you mentioned. Receptions are a bit more tricky. I tend to know how far away everything is (I test prior to shooting) and keep that in mind and adjust manually on the fly. This takes LOTS of practice. Auto will help you when focus is moving around constantly. Just keep an eye on your focus distance meter (in feet). AC160a has a great LCD but sometimes you may think the couple that is 15 feet away is in focus and you'll look down and realize your meter shows that the wall 30 feet away is actually in focus. This becomes more noticeable when you blow it up on a big screen. But don't worry about that, just start getting used to keeping an eye on focus distance (even in auto focus) as you make a transition to using manual more often.

Next, I'd personally recommend zooming in a bit tighter on the couple dancing. Intimate moments are more "intimate" when we are right there with them. Don't be afraid to push in closer. You can pull out every once in a while but I personally like a tighter shot especially when if I had just one cam. Again, this is all OPINION. You will have your own unique style and for what you are doing, you are already doing a great job and have a great camera to help You are a DJ right? For Reception audio, why not patch in to your DJ board using your lav mic (use an XLR, RCA or 1/4" from the main out (or speaker out) to your transmitter and then you'll have even better audio for the music and toasts, etc. Always leave one channel for the real live audio though in case of laughter, cheering etc. For the Ceremony, if you only have one mic and you need it for your system/speakers, maybe get a 2nd to use to connect your camera to your system to get great sound (again, always have a backup/internal mic going)....or if you are close, you can get an XLR cable and run it into your camera from your board, although I'd recommend a wireless option to keep things clean and tiddy and not worry about grandma tripping over your cable, taking out your AC160 and breaking her hip.

Finally, much of putting together a good video is in the editing. That is a whole other topic altogether. Keep trying new things, especially since I don't think you are hired to do what you are doing, right? So try new things/angles/cuts/ and see what you like best. Also, look at some of the professional videographers in your area and see what they are doing and steal their good ideas, etc. Also, you are shooting at 1080p/60 which is nice, but its a definite "choice". I wouldn't just shoot in that speed just because...that's a great setting for a lot of motion or for slow motion editing. Otherwise, you might find 1080p30 or even 1080p24 would give you a more "film-like" look (less of a ultra smooth video/soap opera look). I shoot everything myself at 60p but I then conform and edit on a 24p timeline to get the best of both worlds (great slow motion and yet the more "film-look" of 24p for the non-slowmo stuff. That, again, is a whole other topic. But play around. If you are doing this for fun. Try shooting the Ceremony at 24p and the Reception at 60p and see what looks better to you. Just know you'll have to do a bit of background work to edit the two together if you decide to do that. But as long as you are just "testing"...I'd recommend trying that.

Anyway, just my two cents. Keep up the good work and good luck!

 

[pifemaster]

We're you DJ'ing while you were filming too? That's a lot to take care of all at once. Ha!

Yes, I was DJ'ing the wedding and filimng. It's a little hectic, but I have done sooo many weddings (Disc Jockey) that I am pretty comfortable.

During a Ceremony, the action is pretty much all in one place so I'd recommend zooming all the way in on where the officiant/couple will be and then when its in focus, switch to manual. Then zoom out and no matter what you do you won't have the focus issues you had during that one minute sequence you mentioned.

That is awesome advice. I did not realize/comprehend that if I zoomed in and obtained focus on the bride & groom (then switched to manual) and zoomed out, that it would retain focus. I have another reception only this friday, but on Saturday I have a ceremony and reception, so I will definitely experiment with this at Saturday's ceremony.

AC160a has a great LCD but sometimes you may think the couple that is 15 feet away is in focus and you'll look down and realize your meter shows that the wall 30 feet away is actually in focus.

I found that the focus assist did help me with this a little. Although it makes the screen a little busy, it allowed me to see what the camera felt was in focus.

Next, I'd personally recommend zooming in a bit tighter on the couple dancing. Intimate moments are more "intimate" when we are right there with them. Don't be afraid to push in closer. You can pull out every once in a while but I personally like a tighter shot especially when if I had just one cam.

I will admit that I got a little gun shy after the auto focus went hoaky during the ceremony. I could tell that as I zoomed in on the bride and groom, the focus started to wander. That is a big part of the reason why I stayed wider - everything stayed in focus better. I will have to practice with the focus to try to achieve a tighter zoom.

For Reception audio, why not patch in to your DJ board using your lav mic (use an XLR, RCA or 1/4" from the main out (or speaker out) to your transmitter and then you'll have even better audio for the music and toasts, etc. Always leave one channel for the real live audio though in case of laughter, cheering etc. For the Ceremony, if you only have one mic and you need it for your system/speakers, maybe get a 2nd to use to connect your camera to your system to get great sound (again, always have a backup/internal mic going)....or if you are close, you can get an XLR cable and run it into your camera from your board, although I'd recommend a wireless option to keep things clean and tiddy and not worry about grandma tripping over your cable, taking out your AC160 and breaking her hip.

Absolutely! I have been researching wireless transmitter/reciever systems. Unfortunately, I have (4) Shure ULXP wireless systems and they do not make a portable reciever for that series. So I have been looking at the Senheiser systems and will probably go that route. My biggest hurdle is coming up with the proper way to mount the reciever on the camera. It looks like several companies make a shoe mount, but I use the shoe to mount a LED light during the reception. I will then patch in to my board for both ceremonies & receptions.

especially since I don't think you are hired to do what you are doing, right?

NOPE... I am doing this primarily as a marketing tool (to be able to show highlights from events that I DJ) I also am a believer in over-delivering. You would be amazed at the response I have gotten from clients when they found out that they hired me as a DJ and the after the event, I upload a highlight video and send them a link to view it.

Thank you very much for all of your feedback!

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com

 

[Mark Williams]

Hi Robert,
Man you really are a one man show. Here is something interesting I came across when I read your post which could serve as your stationary b-cameras. " The new Gopro Wi-Fi Combo Kit enables remote control, live preview and playback on smartphones and tablets*, live streaming* to the web, and more. The Wi-Fi Combo Kit is compatible with HD HERO2 and Original HD HERO cameras." You seem comfortable multi-tasking and with "tech". This might compliment your operation at a reasonable price. Also there is about to be a firmware upgrade with the Gopro's that enables a higher bitrate of 35mbs with a vast image quality improvement.

http://gopro.com/hd-hero-accessories/wi-fi-bacpac-remote-combo/

 

[pifemaster]

Hi Robert,
Man you really are a one man show. Here is something interesting I came across when I read your post which could serve as your stationary b-cameras. " The new Gopro Wi-Fi Combo Kit enables remote control, live preview and playback on smartphones and tablets*, live streaming* to the web, and more. The Wi-Fi Combo Kit is compatible with HD HERO2 and Original HD HERO cameras." You seem comfortable multi-tasking and with "tech". This might compliment your operation at a reasonable price. Also there is about to be a firmware upgrade with the Gopro's that enables a higher bitrate of 35mbs with a vast image quality improvement.

Very interesting indeed! I will have to read up on this a little more. Maybe something else to spend money on

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com

 

[The Irish TRex]

Well, way to go on over-delivering. That's a huge reason some people succeed more than others IMO. To follow up on your responses...I actually didn't think you should have zoomed closer or more often during the Ceremony...I was talking about the first dance, and dances with/mom/dad etc. Mixing it up is good but its way more "emotional" when we are right there with them. Again, in my opinion. But with only one camera, a little variety is good. Also, I personally am not a huge fan of anything beyond the slowest of zooms during an event (unless of course you do a rapid zoom for a stylized effect). If its not for effect, I feel like a faster zoom calls attention to the camera work so I always tell the guys I hire to keep it slow as if they meant to do it. And know that the further you zoom in the more shaky the camera will be so be gentle (or take your hands off it when you have a good framed shot (its okay if the people move a bit within frame).

I've only used teh AC160 once but if I remember right, it had a "manual focus assist" setting that you should TURN OFF. Then manual focus will stay when you switch it. There's another recent post about this as well.

Finally, the mic situation...sennheisers are good. I have two. If you can afford them, grab yourself an EW 112 (G3). Super reliable and work great. Where I am (Los Angeles) the "A-band" version worked best (there are several frequency bands that you can choose from). It came with a camera mount. You can buy a cold shoe adapter for cheap at B&H or something that will make your one shoe mount on your camera into two. Or you can buy something that screws into the little screw holes on the top of the handle and goes from 1/4" screw to cold shoe mount. Either way you have tons of options. Soon enough your light weight camera will have 5 lbs of additional periferals on it and you'll be wondering what the hell happened to your once-light camera. That's what makes it fun!

Good luck and congrats on your biz.

 

[pifemaster]

If you can afford them, grab yourself an EW 112 (G3).

That is exactly the system I have been looking at. Based on the frequency finder on the sennheiser website http://www.sennheiserusa.com/findfrequency/ it appears that the (A / 516 - 558 MHz) band would work best for me. My primary zip code is 16001 and when I check the chart, I find a vacant band between 524-530 Mhz.


Can you answer a couple of questions about that particular model:


Can I (through the use of optional cableing) directly input a line level signal from my mixer to the SK100 G3 bodypack transmitter?


If I set a particular frequency on the transmitter & reciever, can I leave them both set on that frequency so that each time I power them up, they will pair up and work. I would hate to have to go through a pairing process every time I go to use them. My Shure systems work this way and it is nice because I can basically set it and forget about it (unless I would encounter an issue).

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com

 

[The Irish TRex]

That is exactly the system I have been looking at. Based on the frequency finder on the sennheiser website http://www.sennheiserusa.com/findfrequency/ it appears that the (A / 516 - 558 MHz) band would work best for me. My primary zip code is 16001 and when I check the chart, I find a vacant band between 524-530 Mhz.


Can you answer a couple of questions about that particular model:


Can I (through the use of optional cableing) directly input a line level signal from my mixer to the SK100 G3 bodypack transmitter?


If I set a particular frequency on the transmitter & reciever, can I leave them both set on that frequency so that each time I power them up, they will pair up and work. I would hate to have to go through a pairing process every time I go to use them. My Shure systems work this way and it is nice because I can basically set it and forget about it (unless I would encounter an issue).

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com

Yes, most Dj's I run into have Shure mics so I don't run into many frequency issues. A-Band definitely works best out here in SoCal in my experience and when I've shot Weddings back east it seemed to work there really well too. And yes, the settings all stay the same after power down/up. That would suck to have to change them. Although I have on occasion when I'm on a beach or just feel like I'm getting more interference than usual. But mostly they stay at one frequency. I do adjust the sensitivity levels often though because one minute I'll have the lav mic on a quiet groom and the next hooked up to a loud DJ. When I hook into a DJ's board I give them 3 options: RCA, 1/4", or XLR (all going to 3.5mm). I say "can I hook into your board (usually their "main out") and then they tell me what connection I need. Sometimes I go into the back of one of their speakers using the XLR cable. All of these cables are basically short cables and the 3.5mm end hooks right into the G3 transmitter pack. Super easy. Then, just adjust levels accordingly on your receiver and on your camera for good sound. If you are really strapped for cash you could do a G2 pack as well. A good one off of Craigslist or eBay will serve you well. The G3's have more options and are better, but I still have my G2 and use it every weekend alongside my G3. It works like a charm and has done so for the last 5 years. Have fun!

 

[pifemaster]

Just got off the phone with Rob @ Washington Music Center. I ordered the EW112PG3-A system WITHOUT the lav mic and with an additional 3.5mm - XLR (female) cable. It will ship out today and I will have it the beginning of next week. Now I just have to decide how I want to mount the reciever.

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com

 

[tflak]

Please know that the $300 upgrade is a policy that the US pursued. It may or may not be available in all countries. check with Panasonic to double check your options.

Best,

Jan

So let me see if I have this straight -- B&H offers the 160 (in stock) for $4,095 and the 160A for $5,095 (in stock). Guess it's not too hard to see where I'm going with this - $4,095 + 300 = $4,395. That's a $700 difference. Seems like a no-brainer. Or am I missing something? Like, if you bought the AC160 today you'd be ineligible for the $300 upgrade because it had to be registered prior to availability of the 160A?

 

[sewolla]

Since the upgrade is a purchased item, why would Panasonic make it available to just buyers who registered their product prior to the release of the 160A? I can see there being a time limit on it if it was offered as a free upgrade, but in this case it's not free. It runs $300.00. So yes I would think you should be able to buy the straight 160 and then get it upgraded to the 160A.

 

[pifemaster]

So let me see if I have this straight -- B&H offers the 160 (in stock) for $4,095 and the 160A for $5,095 (in stock). Guess it's not too hard to see where I'm going with this - $4,095 + 300 = $4,395. That's a $700 difference. Seems like a no-brainer. Or am I missing something? Like, if you bought the AC160 today you'd be ineligible for the $300 upgrade because it had to be registered prior to availability of the 160A?

I am pretty sure you can order a new AC160 today and pay the 300.00 to have the focus hardware upgraded. I just opted to purchase the AC160A and not have to send the camera in for upgrade and wait. Different strokes for different folks

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com

 

[tflak]

I am pretty sure you can order a new AC160 today and pay the 300.00 to have the focus hardware upgraded. I just opted to purchase the AC160A and not have to send the camera in for upgrade and wait. Different strokes for different folks

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com

Wasn't questioning your decision to get the 160A - assumed you had your reasons and that's also none of my business anyway. ;-)

My post was directed to Jan because I'm considering a 160 and just wanted to make sure that there wasn't some sort of hidden gotcha if I bought the 160 expecting to have it be upgradeable to a 160A equivalent. In my case, saving the $700 is a big deal and I would love to be able to put that money toward accessories.

 

[pifemaster]

I just happened to be browsing the B&H Photo website yesterday and noticed that the price of the 160A dropped from $5095 to $4495 - a $600 price reduction only 22 days after I made my purchase. Needless to say, I contacted B&H and spoke to customer service. THEY GAVE ME A $600 REFUND - No Questions asked.

Now that is customer service!

If any one is considering purchasing a 160 and then paying the $300 upgrade fee, the decision just got more difficult (well actually it is now a no-brainer).

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com

 

[kwkeirstead]

B&H is a notoriously excellent vendor. Good pricing, unless you opt for eBay auctions and are lucky.

B&H customer support is great - you can call and at no time during any reasonable conversation do you get the notion they are trying to get rid of you.

I am a big fan of B&H. Glad I do not live in NYC. I would probably be in there every second day.

 

[tflak]

I just happened to be browsing the B&H Photo website yesterday and noticed that the price of the 160A dropped from $5095 to $4495 - a $600 price reduction only 22 days after I made my purchase. Needless to say, I contacted B&H and spoke to customer service. THEY GAVE ME A $600 REFUND - No Questions asked.

Now that is customer service!

If any one is considering purchasing a 160 and then paying the $300 upgrade fee, the decision just got more difficult (well actually it is now a no-brainer).

Hey Robert - really glad it worked out that way for you! And good to know B&H did that. That's most likely where I'll be buying mine in a couple of weeks.

Yesterday, was browsing the AF100 forum and saw Barry had commented that the 160A was selling for $300 more than the 160. So hopped over to the B&H site and, sure enough, the price reduction was there. You can still pick up a 160 and get the paid firmware for an end total of $100 less than buying the 160A, but why bother with needing to ship the camera out for the upgrade, loss of use, etc? You're right - it's a no-brainer.

 

[pifemaster]

Hey Robert - really glad it worked out that way for you! And good to know B&H did that. That's most likely where I'll be buying mine in a couple of weeks.

I have been really happy with B&H. The biggest thing I like is their inventory. When I make the decision to purchase something, I don't like to wait. They usually have pretty good stock and they are only 2 day UPS ground shipping away from me.

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com

 

[tflak]

So I go to buy the 160A today and B&H has raised the price $500 since the end of June. They started out at $5,095, then went down to $4,495 and now back up up to $4,999. Seems this camera is somehow tied to oil futures. And now they're saying it usually ships in 2-4 weeks.

Hello Adorama! It's on its way at the price I was expecting to pay at B&H. So its all good. Can't wait to get my hands on it.

 

[LanceOregon]

There is a $450 price difference now at Adorama between the AC160 and AC160A. So the savings from buying the AC160 first and then upgrading is only $150 Even less than that, since you would have to ship the camera to get it serviced.