C100: Just got my new C100...

mhood

Veteran
and have two initial questions:

1. I have a Gini 15mm rod setup that I've been using with my 7D. The C100's lens is much higher...so much so that my focus wheel doesn't reach the lense's focus ring (almost an inch too low). Any solutions to raise the rods at least an inch?

2. It seems I don't have a joy stick without the handle attached and without a joy stick, I can't adjust iris, f/stop, ISO and menu items. I'd really like to operate on a tripod with just the thumb rest. What am I missing?

Thanks!

Sorry...one more question: I got an extra battery and they sent me a BP-970G 7200mAh. Powers the camera just fine but doesn't say how many minutes are left on the battery as the battery that came with the C100 does. Problem?
 
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You'll want to upgrade the baseplate to something like the Zacuto gorilla plate: http://store.zacuto.com/gorilla-baseplate-for-c300-scarlet-epic.html or the Redrock micro ultraCage C100 baseplate.

I've contacted Redrock to see if they'll sell just the baseplate. By the looks of it on their site, you can only buy the whole ultraCage rig for $550 which then includes side plates and top handle. But as I'm using the included handle, I don't have much use for that.

The Zacuto plate for $165 actually seems like an OK option to me. It also gets the center of gravity closer to the tripod (as opposed to raising the follow focus) and makes for a tighter package.
 
I actually RTFM last night and the battery is normal behavior for the BP-970G so nevermind about that question. Andree, thanks for the Zacuto plate suggestion. That appears to be the answer. Shemster, I'm afraid I don't understand your suggestion. Why would I want to re-assign the buttons? Is it a means to control the menu (etc.) without the joystick on the handle?
 
Andree, thanks for the Zacuto plate suggestion. That appears to be the answer.

Yes, I think I'm going for that as well.

Just a quick head's up: the rods that go in the front are screw on, not clamp on, so you need male rods. At least one of the ends.
 
Yes, I think I'm going for that as well.

Just a quick head's up: the rods that go in the front are screw on, not clamp on, so you need male rods. At least one of the ends.

Good news is that I already have a couple of male rods. I just wish there was something for rods out the back of the camera so that I could fashion some sort of a shoulder mount rig. Oh well, I'm loving this camera and hand holding it is not going to be a problem. I'm on tripod 99% of the time anyway. :)
 
I actually RTFM last night and the battery is normal behavior for the BP-970G so nevermind about that question. Andree, thanks for the Zacuto plate suggestion. That appears to be the answer. Shemster, I'm afraid I don't understand your suggestion. Why would I want to re-assign the buttons? Is it a means to control the menu (etc.) without the joystick on the handle?

By default, button 1-6 are not assigned to any function. You can assign them yourself. I.e 1=iris+, 2=iris-. ISO and shutter button is already on the main body. I still havnt figure how how to access the menu without joystick. Frankly speaking if you are operating from tripod, there's no reason to remove the handle. They are already pretty compact and lightweight.
 
Actually, I just got the C100 to fit in my Pelican 1510 Carry On Case with the handle attached (barely). It's not going to be a problem after all...I just won't be taking the handle off. This camera is so very intuitive and easy to shoot with. I do wish I could figure out a way to shoot two separate mono audio channels instead of one stereo (left and right channels separate or mixed).
 
Actually, I just got the C100 to fit in my Pelican 1510 Carry On Case with the handle attached (barely). It's not going to be a problem after all...I just won't be taking the handle off. This camera is so very intuitive and easy to shoot with. I do wish I could figure out a way to shoot two separate mono audio channels instead of one stereo (left and right channels separate or mixed).
That's a AVCHD issue. Same with the AF-100.
 
That can be fixed in your NLE. FCPX has a straight switch from Stereo to Dual Mono. Premiere Pro has a similar switch (can't quite quote it now but this article may help) - specifically the bit entitled 'DUAL MONO AS DEFAULT BEHAVIOR IN PREMIERE'. I'm sure every NLE has its own variant.
 
Thank you Matt!!! So much better than my silly workaround (splitting out a WAV and filling the original audio left and the new WAV right then locking them). This is beautiful and I can easily put any stereo bed music WAVs back to true stereo when I import the clip. Thanks again.

Another question while I have your attention: I output h.264 MP4 to Inter/Intranet display only and am wondering if I should forget the 29.97fps I've been working at (old habit from the broadcast years) and go with 24p for everything since I've read that 24p is what makes the C100 happiest (like ISO 850)? 60i confuses me a bit but I for sure know that I don't want anything to do with interlaced anything.
 
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LOL! My answer is bound to generate a maelstrom of objection, but who cares...

If you're making movies for the internet or playback on a computer screen, where ever you are (PAL or NTSC), shoot 29.97 or 30 fps. The end.

I am astonished at the difference between 25fps and 24fps material compared to 30fps material - but of course it makes sense: computer screens work at 60Hz, or basically 60fps and multiples thereof.

Why? Because almost all (beyond 99%) of screens watching web movies are computer screens that refresh at 60Hz or a multiple of 60 frames per second. 30fps sort of does the same thing that 25 fps did for 50i broadcast TV in Europe. It just works. Trying to fit 24 or 25 frames per second onto a 60Hz/60fps device will be bound to add judder and other nastiness. 30fps (true progressive 30fps) seems to be at Peter Jackson's nexus: smooth enough to be nice, rough enough to be 'that was then, not now'.

So, now - as shooter in European PAL-land - I need to know vital info from my clients: are they making a web movie or something that will be viewed on consumer style TV sets? Right now, I'm moving towards originating in 29.97, though it hurts me to say so.
 
Thanks JD...it's freakin' sweet for sure. I'll decide l8r how badly I need the Ninja 2 for my portable green screen work but at this point, I'm optimistic that the internal AVCHD is going to work for me just fine.
 
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