Is the Iscorama worth it? Dispelling the myth... or "Let's Shoot it out!"

it's all to do with what type of back lens they used plus the adaptors.

If you compare the outdoor scene to the indoor. you will see that the falre has rotated more flat indoors (i rotated the back lens)
I am using lecia 90mm. So too bad for me I am getting 45 degree flares in default.
 
...duh, my problem was I ws shooting through a windshield ..I could not replicate it last night in a parking lot (OUTSIDE the car) and couldn't figure it out until someone told me today windshields do that to flares, lol
 
I really don't think it's the taking lens, some others tell me that too. Because if you think about it, the taking lens is perfectly symmetrical, behind the lens that causes/makes the flares (anamorphic/isco) and is not in front of the thing (isco again) that makes the flares. Others have tried many various lenses from canon to nikon to zuiko, to leica, etc ...and they are getting perfectly (well almost) horizontal flares, except you & maybe me (but I think I figured out my culprit already [windshield], if I experience it again, I will chime in again)
 
" this is horizontal, no?... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_4A71Qay0E"
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i think it can get more horizontal.
 
yeah that's horizontal. Is that yours from your 42MC??

...but keep in mind that shot is shooting through an airplane window. Airplane windows don't have as much a slant as a car windshield, but it still does have a slight slant. So that flare is only slightly slanted.

I notice weird oblique flares are amplified differently through different car windshields. Like in my truck for ex, it is only slightly crooked or none at all because truck windshields aren't as aerodynamically slanted as say a car or sports car. When I shoot though a more slanted windshield in a car, the flares become more slanted.
 
4698125247_307a0aaf85_o.jpg

the previous is not mine but the example that was given if it was flat.
This one is mine. Not quite flat when you compare to a Lomo anamorphic.
 
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It's flat enough.. the 42's adjustable "clicks" aren't fine/minute enough to get it 110% level. I bet all Isco's are like that.

I get that too, I think it's normal and decent enough. Adjust it to the other side, and it'll be the same, just ever so slightly crooked, but the other side. The clicks just aren't fine enough. But, sometimes, when remounting diff lenses, it some levels out perfectly.

Also, it's nothing a little rotation in post can fix :)
 
i think I know where that example came from... that new vimeo post of Berlin correct? ...if yes, notice, that his flare shots when not behind glass/airplane windows are pretty much level and horizontal ...his only crooked flares are the ones when being shot behind the airplane window ;)
 
I am sure everyone has seen the big news about the GH1. This might have big implications for anamorphic users.
 
deadfish said:
I am sure everyone has seen the big news about the GH1. This might have big implications for anamorphic users.
Click to expand...

...hehhehhe, like trading in our Canon gear and buying a GH1, 20/1.7 and the Noctilux 50/.95? ...then stickin our Isco's in front? ;)

I assume the advantage is shooting in 1440x1080 raw video & using it with 2x adapters? Anyone try it with a Kowa or Sankor 2x with 1440x1080 and ending up with a 2.35:1 in nice raw instead of the typical 3.56:1 squeezed from a 16:9 native camera?
 
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iscorama 42 - pulling focus from 1.1m to infinity .
Don't need 0.5 diopter anymore.
 
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FoodDude said:
...hehhehhe, like trading in our Canon gear and buying a GH1, 20/1.7 and the Noctilux 50/.95? ...then stickin our Isco's in front? ;)
Click to expand...
The pixel peeping can surely be misleading. No bitrate will grant the 5D Mark II look, count on it. The same for the 5D Mark II + Iscorama combo. It is an owner of 2x GH1 + 2x 5D Mark II who speaks. There's a total lack of clairvoyance on the matter over these boards. A good film school would be a blessing for many ;-)
 
i will make a little video tutorial on it , if my explanation is not clear enough.
remove the rubber from the focus part ( front ) of the iscorama.
There are 2 sets (rows) of screws
1st one from the front and 2nd one. Lossen one of the 2nd row of screws.
And all of a sudden you can turn more of in focus. (make sure you mark the infinity point, cause now it turns beyond it in the other end)

note that - the turning distances are HUGE now, this could be wonderful news for some of you guys.

I am thinking of installing 'permanent' focus gear around my iscorama 42 MC, will this help me in overcoming these distances?
 
Thanks for your find! A video tut would be great!

So far, I just loosened 1 screw, the only one that is clearly visible (without removing any rubber), and it already has made the focus throw greater :)

..kinda having a hard time removing the rubber though, it is on there way too tight.
 
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