Yes but with a f1.8 lens with a speed booster (more like f1.2) and iso 400?If you starve the sensor of light, you get noise. This is true of just about any camera you can name.
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Yes but with a f1.8 lens with a speed booster (more like f1.2) and iso 400?If you starve the sensor of light, you get noise. This is true of just about any camera you can name.
Yes but with a f1.8 lens with a speed booster (more like f1.2) and iso 400?
Yes but with a f1.8 lens with a speed booster (more like f1.2) and iso 400?
But if underexposing in really dim light is your thing..get a Sony A7s.
Yep...You wouldn't think so, its just that some say there is this "noise problem" and although I have had my GH4 for a long time now, I simply dont see this "problem"We regularly shoot on four GH4 bodies & never noted any sensor performance difference.
Yes. If you light-starve the sensor, you get noise. Signal to noise ratio is just that -- the ratio of signal to noise. If you don't have light, you don't have a signal. And if you don't have a signal, all you have left is noise.
What you want, probably, is to capture a scene in candle light and have the shadow under the table to come out a nice clean pure black. Not going to happen. To get that image, you have to throw some light in that shadow during capture, then crush the shadow to black in post.
You don't have to believe me of course. Why would you? Thankfully, it's really easy to test. Run some tests and make your own decisions. It's not difficult, and you'll learn something.
If you're shooting an f1.8 on a speedbooster at iso 400 and the image is still that dark you must be in a cave! I don't know why you'd ever want to shoot anything in that kind of darkness. My problem using fast lenses with the speedbooster is that there isn't an even slower ISO setting to cut the exposure.
I had/tried a lot of other cameras.Looks like what you'd get from pretty much any other camera in a similar price range when shooting in a barely lit environment.
First, it looks like you're shooting in CineD, so you need to grade it in post. If you don't know how to or aren't comfortable yet, try a sollution like FilmConvert. This will fix a lot of noise in darker or underexposed parts of the image. Second, you NEED to properly expose your image, even if you have to bump it up to ISO 1600.
If you're learning how to properly expose, or if you're shooting a black object like your speaker, you can fake a light meter. Turn on your zebras; 90% for 0-255 luminance and 100% for 16-235. Now get a white piece of paper. If you're exposing for soft diffused light, point the paper directly towards the lens. If you're working with a harsher light that's not directly on the front of the subject, or multiple competing lights, favor that light. Point the paper to where it is facing the dominant light and the lens diagonally. Now expose it until the zebras are barely grazing the very edge of the paper.
I think I explained that to where it could be understood. Tell me if I didn't.
Also, If it doesn't come out perfect after you take these steps, don't over think it. People, like us, that shoot and edit our own stuff tend to exaggerate the imperfections when most people won't notice it.
I don't understand why I would do that sorry with my experience with other m4/3 cameras I can get a clean low light image underexposed if I keep the ISO really low. I know what you mean by exaggerate but honestly people will notice this amount of noise in low light conditions. Thanks for your reply.


