Idea for solving missing ND problem.

I meant the front of the lens :)

oh. have you ever tried pantyhose on the back of the lens? on the 7d, i just stretch them tight over the rear element and put the lens on. it trashes the pantyhose doing this so they're only good for one or two uses, but it looks great!!!
 
SIDEBAR: hey rick, are you mounting your camera on rods? if so, have you figured out a way to attach this adapter to the rods via the little 14"/20 mount? i use my 70-200L all the time and it is a heavy monster. i don't want to let the camera take all that weight. i'm not sure what the clearance above the rods will be but i think it's gonna be short. gotta find some sort of support. maybe zacuto makes something.

I haven't yet. When I get my FS100 in on Saturday I will probably look and see if anything I have can do this.
 
Anybody know if IR contamination would be a problem with all these ND filters? I think there are special IR/ND filters, but not sure if they are necessary for the FS100.
 
great success!!!

i received one of my nd's today. it screws right in. the image seems to be fine. no vignetting or anything. focus doesn't seem to be thrown off either.
 
Anybody know if IR contamination would be a problem with all these ND filters? I think there are special IR/ND filters, but not sure if they are necessary for the FS100.

I'd imagine there is probably an IR filter along with the OLPF on the sensor, however, this is just a guess based on other sensors I have researched.
 
It will be one of my tests as soon as mine arrives (tomorrow?), but I feel that the EX1's IR was a sort of 'over-enthusiasm' from the design team in the 'Pro' side of Sony. As the FS100 hails from the same side as the Z1, Z7 et al, it won't have that sensitivity - and as the EX1R is much less of a problem, I'd imagine Sony would have learned from that little escapade.

But there's nowt like testing for real.
 
Ive been consdiering the fs100 as my next camera and i guess im not in the most time-stressed situations, but i plan on buying a LCW fader ND MKII and using step down rings to attach to my other lenses (hopefully a 77m nd fader, with 77-67 and 77-52) and ill be set for the 3 zooms ill probably buy (11-16, 17-50, 80-200) and any other nikon prime i hope to use. For about 150 bucks, theres my ND filter setup. Im sure for some of you guys that wont work as well, but its way cheaper than buying a matte box, which im not exactly ready for quite yet anyways :)
 
Ive been consdiering the fs100 as my next camera and i guess im not in the most time-stressed situations, but i plan on buying a LCW fader ND MKII and using step down rings to attach to my other lenses (hopefully a 77m nd fader, with 77-67 and 77-52) and ill be set for the 3 zooms ill probably buy (11-16, 17-50, 80-200) and any other nikon prime i hope to use. For about 150 bucks, theres my ND filter setup. Im sure for some of you guys that wont work as well, but its way cheaper than buying a matte box, which im not exactly ready for quite yet anyways :)

If I take the plunge, this is probably going to be very similar to my ND situation. I have a 70-200mm and a 17-35mm that both have 77mm threads, the only other lens is a 50mm, which I would certainly need a step-up ring for (77-52 I think)
 
For the footage I shot over the weekend (see other thread) I used my 77mm Vari-ND with a 67-77 step ring on the Sony 18-200mm "kit" lens. Combined with the easy gain and iris adjustments, I didn't miss built-in ND filters.
 
For the footage I shot over the weekend (see other thread) I used my 77mm Vari-ND with a 67-77 step ring on the Sony 18-200mm "kit" lens. Combined with the easy gain and iris adjustments, I didn't miss built-in ND filters.

How was the color handling? I have a 77 as well (FaderND) and I have used it mostly with my 30mm only. There were a few threads with people using these at wide angles (like 11-16mm) and tele (300mm) and the pictures they posted DEFINITELY had some color issues I could easily see. This is one of the reasons for me moving the fader to after the lens. It would at least be consistent lens to lens with respect to the sensor.
 
The only time I've ever had an issue with my Vari-ND was when I was using it on my Tokina 11-16. At that wide, there are some issues, but my other ND was at the bottom of the Amazon River. :D

When using it with that 18-200 lens, I didn't see any issues with color shifting or the like. The images looked clean and sharp.
 
Excellent. Well I just got my 52mm ND in, and I need one more part to arrive and I will be building my post lens fader. I do have the Tokina 11-16 so I can test that. I am just going to print out a color chart locally and use that. No, the colors won't be accurate to say actual colors, but in comparing pre and post lens, and from 11 to 135mm (as high as my current lenses go) we can at least look at what the color does.

Given I have a shoot this sunday, I'll just stick to 30mm on up and use my 77mm for now. The only pain I have with the FaderND is that I cannot use the lens hoods of my lenses with it. Need to find a solution for that.
 
I have heard that Schneider will have a 77mm round version of their 11-stop Vari-ND coming soon.
 
Darn, the variND I bought is too big to fit in the adapter. Guess I will have to build one. Does anyone remember which type of polarizers I need to build a custom VariND filter?
 
Alright, ordered. Going with Hoya for now for the test. Should be here in 2 days and this experiment can continue! :)
 
rick,

i don't know if you have an eos adapter, but if so, 46mm is the perfect size to rest on the lip near the e-mount. and i think 49mm is the biggest that will fit past the eos mount. that is unless you are taking the eos mount off to get a bigger filter inside.
 
I took off the EOS mount to get inside, and the 52mm side of the filter fits, it's the fact the Variable ND is actually larger on one side that I didn't think about. So I just bought a circular and linear 52mm. I am also using 2 step rings. One will be glued in that the polarizer closest to the sensor will be glued to as well. I do not want that to rotate. The second one will be attached to the first. Then, another step up ring will be used so I can drill a hole in it and mount a rod that will pass through a slot in the adapter that I am cutting so that I can rotate from outside. If that all makes sense :)
 
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