Cees Mutsaers
Veteran
Yes when it is sharp at 10 meters and i want to get something sharp at 11 meters or more I have to turn the focus ring about 1 mm
I can not get HD out of the HPX300
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Cees Mutsaers
Veteran
I just checked the macro ring but it was locked, thanks anyway for reminding me to check it..
The dealer I bought the cam will organise a big display and a HDSDI-HDMI converter so I can do the back focus test at there location.
Hopefully they will arrange it fast since ih have some shoots coming up.
The dealer I bought the cam will organise a big display and a HDSDI-HDMI converter so I can do the back focus test at there location.
Hopefully they will arrange it fast since ih have some shoots coming up.
GaryNattrass
Veteran
Good to hear that Cees and at least it will set your mind at rest, it will be interesting to hear what they think!
Just thought I'd chime in (not necessarily to Cees' problems). I had a OP using one my 300's yesterday, outdoors, overcast. Rather than using the built-in ND , they stopped the lens way down (I saw F/11 at one point). The footage looked weird IMO. Mainly, it looked soft. Could have been out of focus. Don't know. This OP usually shoots with an HDX900 with a sweet lens - somewhat of a different animal. This was the OP's first time with the 300.
I've always used the ND filters first, iris second. Mainly because I don't want to see any possible artifacts on the lens when stopped down.
Anyway, to my point: I agree with Barry and others - anything more than 5.6 looks strange with this camera.
I've always used the ND filters first, iris second. Mainly because I don't want to see any possible artifacts on the lens when stopped down.
Anyway, to my point: I agree with Barry and others - anything more than 5.6 looks strange with this camera.
Emmet Brown
Active member
Yes, thats right. And i learned it the hard way, because the client was not happy with the footage. Its a year ago, and i was very confused. I closed the iris, because i wanted SHARP pictures! After a lot of research i learned about that issue...
Now i always shoot with iris as much open i can get, even with other and bigger chipped Cameras. There are some advantages doing so, like tommygunn said the artifacts and better DOF and of course Sharpness. So that Issue helped me to become a better Cameraman
But i was/am angry, that there are no hints or warnings from Panasonic... There should be a BIG Warning-Button, maybe on the lens-cap. Its too important and dangerous for people doing their first project with the Cam, not knowing about that problem!!
Now i always shoot with iris as much open i can get, even with other and bigger chipped Cameras. There are some advantages doing so, like tommygunn said the artifacts and better DOF and of course Sharpness. So that Issue helped me to become a better Cameraman
But i was/am angry, that there are no hints or warnings from Panasonic... There should be a BIG Warning-Button, maybe on the lens-cap. Its too important and dangerous for people doing their first project with the Cam, not knowing about that problem!!
Cees Mutsaers
Veteran
Today I checked the backfocus on a 25inch Panasonic broadcast display via the HDSDI output of the HPX300. Still it is very difficult to judge if the cam is in focus in wide after focussing at max zoom and going back to wide. So I set the back focus not at completely wide so at least the center of the star was reasonable visible. I will make some real life shot to see if it is now better.
Mark Smith
Veteran
I offer several clues about back focus: make sure your iris is wide open or as close to wide open as possible. set the chart close to the cmaera, no minimum focus close, but with a standard lens I'd say 1.5 to 1.8 meters, use a siemens star chart, set up perpendicular to the imaging plane of the camera.
One thing I have noticed recently is that the back focus lock on the Fuji lens is a little weak and if you are hopping between lenses alot as i was recently, inadvertent shifts in back focus can happen through handling.
One thing I have noticed recently is that the back focus lock on the Fuji lens is a little weak and if you are hopping between lenses alot as i was recently, inadvertent shifts in back focus can happen through handling.
Cees Mutsaers
Veteran
Mark Smith
Veteran
Sorry that was a typo. I Meant to say "not minimum focus close" In other words set the star chart 1.5 to 1.8M from camera so you have it within the normal focus range of the lens.
Cees Mutsaers
Veteran
Emmet, thanks for your reaction, You are right in all things you mention except for one in my opinion namely the more open the iris the shallower the DOF becomes instead of better DOF what you write (maybe you meant the same as I do because we all want a shallow DOF).
Also the dealer told me that I am maybe expecting to much from this cam, it is HD chip wise but the chips are relative small (as berry also told me) and the lens is in principle for free. Compared to my earlier footage the results are now a bit better because i now use an open iris to f/4 and I reduced the corning from +5 to 0. The back focus was and is ok.
Yes I also think that Panasonic should have mentioned in their manual not to use an iris beyond f/4 to maintain the best resolution.
By the way yesterday I saw some footage on a 50 inch screen shot with a very very old shouldermount Philips cam with 2/3 inch SD chips (actually it is a Panasonic cam with a Philips name tag). I was very surprised how good the quality of the footage was (to be honest I liked it better than what I get out of the HPX300). They told me that this camera was extremely expensive at the time they bought it (100000 Dutch guilders that is about 33000 euro), probably because it was one of the first 2/3" cameras at that time).
Also the dealer told me that I am maybe expecting to much from this cam, it is HD chip wise but the chips are relative small (as berry also told me) and the lens is in principle for free. Compared to my earlier footage the results are now a bit better because i now use an open iris to f/4 and I reduced the corning from +5 to 0. The back focus was and is ok.
Yes I also think that Panasonic should have mentioned in their manual not to use an iris beyond f/4 to maintain the best resolution.
By the way yesterday I saw some footage on a 50 inch screen shot with a very very old shouldermount Philips cam with 2/3 inch SD chips (actually it is a Panasonic cam with a Philips name tag). I was very surprised how good the quality of the footage was (to be honest I liked it better than what I get out of the HPX300). They told me that this camera was extremely expensive at the time they bought it (100000 Dutch guilders that is about 33000 euro), probably because it was one of the first 2/3" cameras at that time).
Yes, thats right. And i learned it the hard way, because the client was not happy with the footage. Its a year ago, and i was very confused. I closed the iris, because i wanted SHARP pictures! After a lot of research i learned about that issue...
Now i always shoot with iris as much open i can get, even with other and bigger chipped Cameras. There are some advantages doing so, like tommygunn said the artifacts and better DOF and of course Sharpness. So that Issue helped me to become a better Cameraman
But i was/am angry, that there are no hints or warnings from Panasonic... There should be a BIG Warning-Button, maybe on the lens-cap. Its too important and dangerous for people doing their first project with the Cam, not knowing about that problem!!
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