HVX & Redrock on a Glidecam? HELP!

J

Juergenheinemann

New member
I have an HVX 200A and am looking to get a Redrock 35mm adapter. Im also looking at getting a glidecam X-10. My cocerne is the weight factor. Does anybody know if this rig can hold an HVX RR combo? Any input would be much appreciated. And I'm set on Glidecam (no stedicam, basson,etc.) it deffinatly seems to be the most bang for your buck.
 
There's an "a" in Steadicam.

How do you plan to control focus?

Also, whats the total weight of the 35mm lenses and the adapter and the camera (& any mounting hardware like rails)?

- Mikko
 
These are all realy good questions... And to tell you the truth, I'm not sure. On the focus end. I would try for wider lenses. So not sure how ruff focus will be. I'm thinking the tottla weight is right around ten to twelve pounds. Thats a guess. One of my buddys has a stedicam flyer. And he has been able to run an HVX with a redrock set up no problem. I dont know that much about the X-10 other than it is dual articulation (in the arm) like the flyer. And for the price I dont think it can be beat. I guess the best thing to do would be to demo the X-10 first.
 
As soon as you go over 10lb you cross into Flyer teretory.

And if you are looking for comparative rigs to the X10, look no furthur than the Steadicam Pilot - Once you get batteries and a montor onto your X10, you are getting close in price, however the Pilot whoops it in features.

Keep in mind that there is a lot more to how good an arm is than how many spring sections it has.

But figure out focus first, then weight your kit, and then worry about what rigs can carry the load and what you can afford.

- Mikko
 
Juergen,

Don't get the RR 35mm adapter. I have this setup, and I have to say, I love my M2, but if you are thinking about flying it, then the weight increase and the loss of f-stop are a good reason not to get it.

I would go for either the Brevis or the Cinevate (I can't remember which one is the lightest 35mm adapter.)

My setup weighs in around 12-16lbs. that's why I went with the FS1 Pro stabilizer. (http://www.fsprostab.com/english/) for the price there is nothing that can handle 20lb camera + 8lb counter weight below. (this is also without a remote follow focus attached. That is also why I like the 20lb mark, it gives you room to grow)

As Mikko recommended, I met up with Charles Papert (a steadicam operator in Los Angeles) and had him review my rig. Charles is a wonderful guy and was kind enough to spend some time reviewing this rig. (can't say enough good things about him. THANKS CHARLES!!!!!)
There were a few concerns that he had with it.
  • The vest did not adjust far enough down for a smaller torso (like mine) so I will have to elongate the slot on the aluminum piece to be able to do this. (no problem for me)
  • The design of the arm did not maintain constant tension on the unit. So if you are lifting the system all the way up, you are carrying some of the weight. if you are pushing it down, you are pressing some. This is minor and not a huge deal (maybe a big deal if you are lifting the rig all day, but i believe that rarely happens). but when compared to a $30,000 system you can see why they cost that much (they have a different spring system that allows for the unit to maintain constant tension). The solution was to create a post that will help me raise the unit if I have to raise it so much. (easy compromise)
  • The gimbal (the part that spins in 3 axis) was very good I was told. It did have a little drag. meaning if you keep the sled still and walk around the sled, the sled followed a little and started to spin. this again is minor, and for a unit of this price range it is excellent.
  • There is also and adjustment where the arm meets the vest that was not present in this unit and is present in the expensive units. The adjustment lets you rotate the pin where the arm slide on to the left or right. This helps you adjust your unit to be completely balanced without you having to lean to the left or right. (not always necessary, but if you are having to lean one way, you can rotate that connection and presto you should be with better posture.) Again expensive systems have this, most under 10k will not.
All in all, the system has flaws, but for the price, I still think you cannot get anything better. It is solid, and with enough experience, I'm hoping I will be able to fly this thing with such precision that you cannot tell I'm on a < 3k unit. If I had to do it over, I'd get this unit again.

Sorry for the long post. Hope it helps.

Luis
 
if youre going with ANY 35mm adapter and plan to move much (and of course you would or you wouldnt need a stabilizer) you will NEED a wireless remote follow focus.
 
well, if you close down your lens and use a wide angle, you will allow yourself a little bit of depth of field. enough that you can follow a person within a certain distance and sill remain in focus.

also, you can use it to your advantage. if you want to go from out of focus and zoom and focus on a person, you can mark how far you have to be at the end of your focus. focus your lens to that distance. and then walk towards the person and stop at your mark. it will look like you zoomed in and racked focus.

(Richard Gale "Criticized" did this very effectively by placing his HVX on a towel and dragging it along a table with the camera pointed to the side. the focus was fixed and it looked like he was racking focus to different pictures and books that were on the table. the focus was fixed, but the books were at different distance from the camera. so the ones at the right distance were in focus)

of course this is limiting, and eventually you will want to get a Remote FF. but for now, you can use these tricks. Also Redrock Micro is supposed to come up with a remote FF that should be around $500. which is ridiculously cheap. Don't know how they are planning on doing it. but more power to them. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top