HV20 Recommendations to avoid wobbling?

D

der4

Active member
I have read several threads about the wobbling problems inherent with CMOS technology and the HV20. Some people have returned these cameras yet others are having great success. I've heard people state that the key is to learn it's limitations and avoid them. But very little is posted on what to do beside locking exposure. Or does locking exposure resolve the problem?

Can everyone PLEASE post suggestions/techniques in this thread on what to do and what not to do? That will save many indie filmmakers from making the same mistakes.

For instance:
Can I use a crane with this camera with success?
Can I use a dolly with this camera?
Can I use a steadicam? (low budget types, that are most common to the indie)
Can I use a car mount?
Can I use it in a helicopter, if so how?

I noticed many people have sold their dvx100's for this camera. But, if wobbling is inherent in most of these types of uses perhaps the dvx100 or higher may be a better choice. My honest opinion is though resolution is important if the camera can't be used in low indie films with standard techniques then it may not be suitable for filmmakerS, only to be used as a B camera for special/unique shots.

Thanks!

-D
 
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My experience (and I'm one who sold my DVX100 within two weeks of getting an HV20) is the wobble thing is mostly a non-issue unless you;re doing fast, jerky movements of the camera itself. On smooth moves - whether on a dolly, crane or helicopter (huh?) - you are FINE. Also, on almost all subject movement (as opposed to camera movement) you're FINE. So as long as you don't try to shoot handheld while chasing Fido down the block, you're FINE. The HV20 is a great "A" camera for many indie productions (unless you really want fully accessible manual controls then get an A1.) Got it?
 
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24Peter,

My HV20 wobbles in basic handheld situations...It doesn't have to be extreme at all. When I am standing still it wobbles!! All it takes it the slightest bit of movement when it is not on a stablizer for it to wobble.

Sure, on a stablilzer you are fine, but I would say that anytime you are doing handheld you are gonna see the image deteriorate significantly from this phenomenom.
 
Well I still think it's a matter of degree. I've seen handheld stuff from myself and others that looks great. And I've seen the wobbles. Is it a hard camera to shoot handheld? I think it is, esp. b/c it's so lightweight. But is it fine on a dolly, steadicam, car mount or helicopter (huh???), as the OP asked? I think it is. Would it make a great camera for an indie production? ABSOLUTELY.
 
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The HV20 is capable of brilliant footage when it's properly stabilized. It appears to *hate* being bumped or jerked around. Handheld is much wobblier than traditional CCD cameras.

If the camera was locked down solidly on a tripod it should do very well. But as ShadeOfBlue's sunset shot shows, that's not a guarantee either; he did a sunset shot on a tripod (http://www.chew.it.public/sunset.mpg) and got hit with bad wobbles from the wind jittering the camera.

Sweeping moves would probably be fine (dolly/crane shots, etc). Quick jerks or vibration are what make the wobbles the worst. And 24p mode seems more susceptible to it than 60i. Telephoto makes it much worse than wide-angle (obviously, as any minor movement of the camera will result in more movement in the frame at telephoto than at wide angle).
 
The way I see it a lot of hdv footage is used in factual documentaries where there are short slow pans or head shots or stable shots of landscapes and so on. I think in all of the programs I watched today on Discovery HD there were very few shots with lateral movements and what movements there were were very slow pans.
I would never use the hv20 for making movies - i can't think that anyone would. But I could see me using the HV20 for verite pieces and documentary style shooting and in both types of filming I would do 2-3 second cuts and head shots /talking faces for longer cuts. I wouldn't pan unless I had a variablele rate HD camera and did over-cranking and so on.
So the HV20 for me is a fine fne camera and the best for me under 4,000 dollars/euros. The image quality is close to the A1 and we can do alot with the image from the HV20 in FCP2 and color1. If I was making more money from the films that I make I would drop 20,000 dollars/euros for the new Panny and if i make a little money this year I will go for the HVX 200. The HV20 is pretty close to the best cam you can get for under 4000 dollars. BUT obviously it has its limitations - just have to know how to work around these limitations until you have enough money/skills to get a better camera.
 
Okay guys let's stick to the topic at hand. Thanks for all the input. Because of the price of this camera I'll give it a shot. The key to having success with this camera seems to be stabilization.
 
"who didn't pay attention to my hint only 'cause I'm not Barry Green :), "
Barry, Carries much less weight than he used too
 
I already had posted before but here's again (take or leave it 'cause so soon I probably won't post it again -- by now, I'm done!):

Emanuel said:
(...) try the 1/24th or 1/25th* of a second shutter and you should be fine with the motion blur, avoiding it with an effective camera movement handling:

All the grip personnel knows that a camera movement goes to an end (where the HV20 can shine! -- the motion blur is a minor hassle and its annoying effect can be surpassed by opposition on contrary effect**). The problem is the most part of the prosumer shooters don't shoot as a professional grip nor thinks the shot list as an efficient director would/should do (I'm sorry...but I should say: truly professional, where the amateurism may be away).

* 1/25@25p clip [ LINK ]

** Any psychologist can explain this, better than I, but the perception stuff is a subject of this business indeed, right?
Click to expand...

Hope this helps -- enjoy the tip! It's free and I'm used to charge for my advices! (Just kidding... :laugh: though it's true but not here :D)
 
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