F3: "Hulkanizing" with 3ality Body Armor...

Sparky,

Could you have a good look inside the handle, the back end where headphone jack and IR sensor is. If you could see if it is possible to unmount them from the inside of the handle or at least unsolder some of the leads from the ribbon connector so the headphone jack and possibly the IR sensor can be redeployed with the armor kit. Thanks!
 
Sparky,

Could you have a good look inside the handle, the back end where headphone jack and IR sensor is. If you could see if it is possible to unmount them from the inside of the handle or at least unsolder some of the leads from the ribbon connector so the headphone jack and possibly the IR sensor can be redeployed with the armor kit. Thanks!

They can, Hot Rod Camera's prototype of the same body replacement from summer 2011 had those items relocated, and you could tell by the nature or the relocation that the underlying board was intact, just moved.
 
I wouldn't attempt to try and salvage the lost functions. The whole point of the armor is to make a cinema shooting camera out of the F3 from it's handycam factory design. I will miss the top handle buttons but other than that I'm good.
 
I just completely disassembled the handle. I suppose it's possible that the controls could be relocated with the armor kit, but I don't think it would be simple. The ribbon connector attaches to the camera at the front of the handle, runs to a circuit board that spans the length of the handle, and then attaches to another circuit board with the headphone jack and rear IR port components. I don't think you could just pluck the headphone jack out, unfortunately. I suspect the circuitry in the rest of the handle is critical. Here's a couple pics:
 

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Made a real meal of putting on Body Armor on this afternoon. I followed the instructions for putting the top plate on first ( I need to get a GOOD set of allen keys as the ends have already worn away leaving round edges which just turn loosely in the screws). Went then to put on the slide pate (clip 2) and realised you are meant to put this on as part/when you are putting on top plate - this would have saved me loads of time! Anyway have to buy a decent set of Allen keys and then mount side plate in next couple of days. The new top plate on its own though has made a big difference already - losing useless VF- and now find it easier to mount he Samurai to the top as well - it fits really snuggly in there not resting against the handle. Will post a pic shortly. Sparky x
 
Please get your self a proper set of screw drivers as well for removing bottom plate...
Those 4 screws that hold small 2 holes tripod plate are LOCK TIGHT... If screw driver is a bit wrong, you will destroy the screw... Just saying...
 
Please get your self a proper set of screw drivers as well for removing bottom plate...
Those 4 screws that hold small 2 holes tripod plate are LOCK TIGHT... If screw driver is a bit wrong, you will destroy the screw... Just saying...

When you have good tools, things get a lot easier and you feel safer when doing it because you can tell you're not going to strip fasteners with multiple disassembles/assembles.

I have a set of Wiha screwdrivers and torx drivers, and Bondhus allens. Some of the best money I've ever spent, and it wasn't much.

Also bonus, good tools don't give away to the service center that you've been taking things apart :-)
 
My armor is also shipping. Will work on that later this week so more insight from you Sparky is much appreciated. I hope there's a perfect place to mount my Shuttle finally.
 
Advise to all: watch carefully those 3 video clips showing installation. Few times before you start yours. It WILL help...
 
Well I reforged my F3 last night, had it out on a simple studio-bound corporate shoot today so didn't really get put it through its paces at all. But with the exception of the top handle being way too tall, I'm delighted with the simplicity it gives the camera. It removes all the clutter and helps the camera feel a great deal more robust (both of which the F3 needed).

The Manhandle's built-in 15mm rod holder also allows my Berkey System's based PIX240 mounting solution to work perfectly (the same basic mounting setup also makes for a terrific, lightweight, CHEAP and compact EVF holder).

I'll have a more in depth review up on my blog (The Forge) shortly, along with more detail on my PIX/EVF mounting solution. But here's some gear porn for the time being.

My previous setup:

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And the reforged camera:

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Grk18Sr.jpg
 
The Manhandle's built-in 15mm rod holder also allows my Berkey System's based PIX240 mounting solution to work perfectly (the same basic mounting setup also makes for a terrific, lightweight, CHEAP and compact EVF holder).

Grug, i seem to recall your having offered some details about the parts used to mount your pix before, but i can't find it. i see the "cross clamp" on the Berkey site, but is the rest of it just a combination of rods and blocks?

i ask because i've been meaning to invest in the Solid evf mount for my Alphatron but your method looks like it should provide an equally versatile set up (if not quite as slick) for a lot less money. also, it's been mentioned that the Solid doesn't get the evf close enough to the camera.
 
i ask because i've been meaning to invest in the Solid evf mount for my Alphatron but your method looks like it should provide an equally versatile set up (if not quite as slick) for a lot less money. also, it's been mentioned that the Solid doesn't get the evf close enough to the camera.

This is probably typical of me, but I'd think there'd be a way with all the ways Solid has to attach the EVF arm to the body, I have 2 or 3 ways with the Solid parts I have.

The Solid EVF arm/system is one of my favorite pieces of gear ever. I did the 15mm rod EVF mount for a while, but since the Solid arm will go from cam-to-cam, finder-to-finder with minimal expenditure, I think it's well worth the money (also, it's less than most EVF bracketry)
 
i guess i should stop by Abel and see just how close it really is. but for all it's strengths, i'd be disappointed to shell out that amount of money and have it be not quite right.
 
I really did not think I was going to go for this, but at the price it was too hard to resist, just placed an order, hopefully the install will not be an issue. Since I am keeping the F3 for at least a few more years, it makes sense to upgrade it like this. I also ordered some new Bondhus and star drivers as recommended.
 
Just finished the modification and it was pretty easy. Had adjust two screws to make the sideplate slide into position but that was the one thing. The camera become much easier to configure with what you might need to put onto it. Stuck my Shuttle on the right side and the Effect module attached to a rod and shoved into the handle.

View attachment 70039
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THE ARMY OF REBORN!

I love it!

As far as Solid EVF mount: yes, one the best pieces I got for cheap. And with my combination of Solid and 3Ality parts, I was able to get my DP4 closer to the camera body than it was before (with only Solid holder attached to Berkey plate). Just saying.
Check out my previous pix to see all details...


On another note: just got a package from 3Ality today with the remaining "missing" parts. Got the raiser/plate and shoulder pad as well as VCT-U kit for mounting on Sony VCT plate. All complete! Did I say the price was "funny"low?...
 
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Stuff looks slick, fellas. I know if I'd have gotten an F3 instead of my F35 I'd be on this like white on rice.

We're at an interesting convergence point in cameras right now. Those interested in bleeding edge can chase the new stuff (and for good reason, too- not discounting the benefits of the new cams). But the previous generation of cinema cams still have a lot of serviceable life and image quality in them to warrant keeping them in use longer, with interesting mods & upgrades to facilitate that. Basically you're not making a ton of high cost compromises by sticking with these slightly older cams. Really pulls the rug from under the conventional wisdom that digital cinema cams have an accelerating usage life (2 yrs now). F35s, F3s, RedOne MXs (if you're willing to put up with the weight) are still very capable, pro kit that can deliver great images for years to come and they can all be had and kitted out for a reasonable sum (relatively speaking). The next generation's budget cameras are the last generation's bleeding edge. That's a great place to be for everybody, I think.
 
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