how to get around this?

J

Jon Neely

Well-known member
http://vimeo.com/4162656

i just shot this using my big Box light set up, i like the look, but do you guys see the horizontal lines im getting, im thinking it has to do with the refresh rate of the florescent tubes compared to my settings on the camera of 24/1080p and 1/48th, when i lowered down to 1/30th they became less visible to invisible, is there another way to stop this without going to a lower shutter speed so i can stay at 1/48th?


any info is great.


Jon
 
I see the horizontal lines. See what happens with shutter off and also try testing with the flicker reduce settings if you want to stay at 1/48.
 
I wonder if this is an issue with all fluorescent studio lights? Hmmmm.......this is one of the main things I'm going to be looking at at NAB next week. I'm comparing fluorescents (Kinos) with LED (LitePanels, Kinos). I'm worried neither one of them will be bright enough to work with our Letus adaptor (I'm using 1000wt Arri's right now). But if the fluorescents are going to do this at certain shutter speeds........not good. Please let me know how this works out.
 
You need to be shooting at 1/60 shutter speed, to synch with your flos. Unfortunately, this is a common problem with CMOS. Red has it, too. Note: you will also see this using magnetic ballast (non-flicker free) HMIs.
 
Today I shot an exterior at 180º in 60p mode, and sometimes I saw a flicker... I thought... what?

This happened to me once also in an interior with natural exterior light, sometimes a flicker would appear.

Anybody has any insight on this? If you don't know what I'm talking about I could up a video.

I don't have shutter on auto.
 
Iudex said:
Today I shot an exterior at 180º in 60p mode, and sometimes I saw a flicker... I thought... what?

This happened to me once also in an interior with natural exterior light, sometimes a flicker would appear.

Anybody has any insight on this? If you don't know what I'm talking about I could up a video.

I don't have shutter on auto.
Click to expand...

Turn flicker reduce to off.


I have read about this problem a couple of times when people have shot in daylight. Sun Flares and other things cause this. if I remember correctly when you get your camera, flicker reduce is set to on or auto by default. If you shoot without artificial lighting in dayllight I would have flicker reduce set to off.
 
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MitchLewis said:
I wonder if this is an issue with all fluorescent studio lights? Hmmmm.......this is one of the main things I'm going to be looking at at NAB next week. I'm comparing fluorescents (Kinos) with LED (LitePanels, Kinos). I'm worried neither one of them will be bright enough to work with our Letus adaptor (I'm using 1000wt Arri's right now). But if the fluorescents are going to do this at certain shutter speeds........not good. Please let me know how this works out.
Click to expand...

Kinos are square wave ballasts and are flicker free. Litepanels says they are flicker free but I would definitely check them out to make sure .
Kinos come in alot of flavors and give alot of punch if you got the money like for a cople of flatheads.
 
Thanks Mico. I'll check out the Kino flatheads. Good info.

Portable and powerful are cool to the touch are what I'm looking for. (they may not exist)
 
Although kinos never get as hot as other types of fixtures KInos do get real hot to the touch if they've been on for a while. Having changed many from one color temp to another my hands have hurt without gloves.
 
Man, that light made for some creepy eye catchlights... your light source was four fluo tubes arranged in a box pattern? Watch the eyes, it's ... not natural looking...
 
Barry_Green said:
Man, that light made for some creepy eye catchlights... your light source was four fluo tubes arranged in a box pattern? Watch the eyes, it's ... not natural looking...
Click to expand...

that was exactly the feeling i wanted to give people, no natural, when you see the finished spot it will work well, this was just a test. we film tomorrow.


jon
 
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