yeah thats what I'm considering but I'm really trying to find out if this is all in my head or not!! Will only really tell when i look at some more 5D3 footage I think
How do you sharpen the soft video of 5D3 (premiere CS6)
- Thread starter tikigod19
- Start date
Scott F
Pug Life
Well, thanks for finally sharing the footage so we can all see what the problem is your were talking about!
I will echo the positive comments. I think the footage looks good, certainly the client will love it. There were some soft shots, IMO looks like human error. That is the risk you take with low light and wider apertures.
From my experience working with Canon DSLRs, if the footage is soft, it's soft and there's not much to do. If I nail the focus, I'm jumping for joy in the edit.
As mentioned, I would recommend some kind of external monitor or EVF....are you currently just eyeballing the rear monitor if I'm reading you correctly? That is really tough to go off of for nailing focus. Just another vote for a confidence monitor, take it or leave it.
I will echo the positive comments. I think the footage looks good, certainly the client will love it. There were some soft shots, IMO looks like human error. That is the risk you take with low light and wider apertures.
From my experience working with Canon DSLRs, if the footage is soft, it's soft and there's not much to do. If I nail the focus, I'm jumping for joy in the edit.
As mentioned, I would recommend some kind of external monitor or EVF....are you currently just eyeballing the rear monitor if I'm reading you correctly? That is really tough to go off of for nailing focus. Just another vote for a confidence monitor, take it or leave it.
Kyron
Well-known member
All-I is definitely a good start. If magic lantern raw is out of the question, then try playing with the focus peaking features instead. It may help you pull focus better.
I own a mkiii as well and I too have seen how soft the footage can get. Compared to raw, it looks like a mushy mess! But using a good L prime in its sweet spot does yield better results.
As for fixing soft footage, try a high pass filter in after effects. Ae doesn't natively come with a high pass filter but if you google it there is a good video tute about how to recreate a high pass effect.
I often use it for subtle edge sharpening rather than blanket sharpening the entire image with good results. Definitely denoise footage before the sharpening stage. Sharpened compression blocks and noise are just as nasty!
Found the high pass link-
http://maltaannon.com/articles/after-effects/high-pass/
I own a mkiii as well and I too have seen how soft the footage can get. Compared to raw, it looks like a mushy mess! But using a good L prime in its sweet spot does yield better results.
As for fixing soft footage, try a high pass filter in after effects. Ae doesn't natively come with a high pass filter but if you google it there is a good video tute about how to recreate a high pass effect.
I often use it for subtle edge sharpening rather than blanket sharpening the entire image with good results. Definitely denoise footage before the sharpening stage. Sharpened compression blocks and noise are just as nasty!
Found the high pass link-
http://maltaannon.com/articles/after-effects/high-pass/
I have noticed this but thought there was nothing that can be done with it.. The only denoise plug in I have is neat video reduce noise and to be honest it's SO labour intensive that I avoid using it (9 hours to export a 30 min de-noised clip on a high spec machine). Is there any better way of doing this you recommend?
Yeah I use a evf but more for shade than focus aiding. To be honest with the higher res screen on the mk3 compared to mk2 this might change, I see where you're coming from, I'll give that a go more regularly. (Not always possible when crane, glide, slide is happening though)
You're probably right to a certain extent. The problem I have is when I nail the focus, I'm still left wanting more compared to the mk2..
Correct I mainly use just screen unless the sun is glaring down and I use a loupe. I'm worried my cam won't work on my glidecam hd2000 with an external monitor, thats pretty much my main concern.. anyone had experience of a monitor mounted on the cam on the HD-2000?
David W. Jones
Veteran
Thought about mounting the monitor to the front of the Glidecam in place of weights?
again wouldnt be practical as then i'd need another monitor for when the camera is on the tripod/crane. I'm not too fussed about a monitor when on the glidecam to be honest but I wouldnt have time to remove it when changing between tripod and glide..
David W. Jones
Veteran
We use these to quickly mount and remove monitors between cameras.
http://16x9inc.com/shop/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=32
http://16x9inc.com/shop/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=32
ROCKMORE
Veteran
thanks but that appears to be a very unscientific test..
Today I started editing the 2nd project I filmed on the mkiii and only a few shots in I'm instantly unhappy again. I think when in focus, its ok. Still not as good as mkii but not much in it, however I'm churning out so much out of focus junk that I never usualy do. I'm sure its down to the same lcd sharpness that means my pictures look sharp on the camera screen and out of focus on the pc screen. I need to look into the ML digic focus peaking and hope it solves the problem as I really dont want to use a monitor, but I dread to think what the future 5 weddings I have lined up to edit are going to look like..
The fact for me is this... I used to focus manually using screen only without any aids on the mkii brilliantly and on the mkiii a lot of my footage is out of focus.
ROCKMORE
Veteran
When I first read your post I thought you must be exaggerating, but I just had a 1 week shoot with a rented MK3 and have more than a few shots not tack sharp. I was using the 24-105L that came with the camera and my new out of the box Canon 70-200 f4L IS. Maybe I'm getting sloppy, but that never happened before. I use a focus loupe on the back view screen manual focusing.
I also agree with you that the footage is not up to what I was expecting even with the focus right on. I shot another project with the same camera but a 70-200 f2.8 L and everything was good.
I was also surprised with the results of the unscientific test I posted, because I was expecting the opposite results. With your experience with the MK2 and disappointment with the MK3 why don't you dump the Mk3 and go with a mosaic AA filter for moire problems.
I also don't see the need to shoot over ISO 1600. Better have some f1.4 primes in the bag. I did some night shots with the MK3 at 12,800 and they were dismal. I didn't plan on night shooting so only had 2 f4 lenses. An f1.4 would have brought me back to ISO 1600 with an MK2. I fixed the noisy shots in AE with a lot of work. I was ready to buy an MK3 because I have a few shoots coming where I need to rent. Generally I like the MK3 but don't think I will invest in one at this point. Just invest it a few more quality lenses and wait to see what comes next.
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The reason the mk2 appears more sharp to other people is because it has way more aliasing. Aliasing makes edges stand out. Same reason a quickly downscaled 4k image looks great on 1080p monitors. Quick downscaling creates aliasing = apparently "sharper". If you add the mosaic filter, you will effectively blur the mkII image to get rid of the aliasing. Thus decreasing resolution even more.
Focusing is also bit more difficult with the markIII because aliasing doesn't stick out on edges like with previous models. If you use Magic Lantern, enable Digic peaking. Helps with focus a lot.
I will add my two cents. I am primarily an aerial video guy and I do very little ground based video, but I have shot weddings for a few friends and family. When I shoot with my 5D Mark ii I have a focusing system that works very well. For starters I would never use the rear LCD or a monitor on a shallow depth of field shot. It is just too critical. My method...once I get the shot set up and framed like I want it, maybe five seconds or so, I quickly flip out of live view and half depress the shutter button using center point auto focus to focus the shot then flip back into live view and hit record. It works wonderfully. Now, once you have started recording if your subjects moves closer or further away, then you are screwed.
I hope this helps.
Wayne Mann
www.HeliCamHDmeda.com
I hope this helps.
Wayne Mann
www.HeliCamHDmeda.com
We shoot most of our aerial stuff on Epics and Panasonic's GH3. I have two primes for the GH3 so I have not tried this, but I have seen samples of the GH3 with the Lumix 12-35 and one of the longer Lumix lenses using the "face tracking" or "subject tracking" focusing system that the GH3 has and it is very impressive. Unfortunately the GH3 is nowhere near the low light monster that the 5D Mark iii is, but for the outdoor wedding stuff it would be great. The GH3 and those lenses are very cheap to rent and the image from the GH3 is very sharp.
Wayne Mann
www.HeliCamHDmedia.com
Wayne Mann
www.HeliCamHDmedia.com
Do you know if this is present in the 5d mkiii nightly builds? Where abouts is it in the menu I can't seem to find it..
Ted Ramasola
Veteran
Display Tab>LV Digic Peaking>Slightly sharper
thanks a lot. i found it after my post but was coming back to check slightly sharper is the best setting to use. The difference seems to be marginal but I can see how it would help. I can't quite work out whether the edges are slightly sharper when using 5 and 10x magnification mode also..?