Hours of darkness - Gh13 (lowlight)
- Thread starter x_WOrPIG_x
- Start date
After hours and hours of research, burn-in processes, one with lens cap on, one in a darkened room, over 2 weeks of leaving it on. Nothing worked.
However, I've now fixed it...or at least it's no longer visible and I just get regular noise now.
Solution? Don't use Windows Media Player. Cranked up in VLC = perfect. Now can I have those 2 1/2 weeks back please?
Tim
However, I've now fixed it...or at least it's no longer visible and I just get regular noise now.
Solution? Don't use Windows Media Player. Cranked up in VLC = perfect. Now can I have those 2 1/2 weeks back please?
Tim
P. Harrill
Member
@itimjim
Are you suggesting that WMP is the problem and VLC isn't? That doesn't make sense to me because I've seen this stuff on VLC and QT player on a Mac... and because everything points to this being a sensor problem, not player problem.
Either I don't understand or I didn't get that you're joking.
But I'd love for you to be serious that you've found a perfect solution.
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Uncle GroOve
Active member
I've noticed that certain artifacts appear on some screns and not others - and can't figure out why.
At home my miniMac + DVC/ADC adapter + old Apple crystal display will show me banding and blockiness on some shots.
At work, my boss' 50" Samsung HD screen shows none, on exactly the same shots.
So can we say that certain artifacts can be a result of other limitations (bandwidth, viewer's hardware) rather than just the sensor + camera OS + card?
Coming from the audio field I know just how bad some home hifi setups sound ... despite the fact that the music has been produced on ultra state-of-art facilities.....
Paul
At home my miniMac + DVC/ADC adapter + old Apple crystal display will show me banding and blockiness on some shots.
At work, my boss' 50" Samsung HD screen shows none, on exactly the same shots.
So can we say that certain artifacts can be a result of other limitations (bandwidth, viewer's hardware) rather than just the sensor + camera OS + card?
Coming from the audio field I know just how bad some home hifi setups sound ... despite the fact that the music has been produced on ultra state-of-art facilities.....
Paul
seanmcleod
Well-known member
Its definitely not a screen or player issue as I have and can see banding on the camera while shooting.
I agree.
There may be a slight difference between different players. But the bands persist, and we have no accurate evidence that they are gone through some burn.
We need real proof that the burning process exists and is not a myth!!
Hi guys, my GH1 has only an hour or so of usage so far, I've done the hack and have it stable using C settings.
I know Im going to get smashed for this, but Im still learning so if someone could explain in simple terms Id be very thankfull.
Im applying a little trick with the GH1 that Ive always done with my HV20,
In Shutter priority mode on the dial,
aim at something bright, to get the auto gain down, hit exposure lock,
thats it, your blacks stay black, lit areas look natural. All good I thought.
So my question is, what am I missing out on by doing this?
Is the GH1 capable of so much more? how?
for a photography newb, what settings would be best for low light?
This is from the GH1 Wiki....
The secret it to turn the dial to S mode (shutter priority). The shutter will show '30', which is the lowest possible for smooth video output. The ISO will still be stuck at ISO 1600, but if you use the wheel to adjust the exposure compensation all the way to maximum (+ 2EV) ISO 3200 is activated (it kicks in a few moments after pressing record, boosting sensitivity to light). The exposure compensation is shown at the bottom of the LCD by a dotted line with blocks that build to the left or right. You may have to press the wheel inwards to highlight the exposure compensation meter in yellow, before being able to adjust it by turning the wheel. I have a professional or semi professional video camera.
Could one of you explain the science behind this?
I know Im going to get smashed for this, but Im still learning so if someone could explain in simple terms Id be very thankfull.
Im applying a little trick with the GH1 that Ive always done with my HV20,
In Shutter priority mode on the dial,
aim at something bright, to get the auto gain down, hit exposure lock,
thats it, your blacks stay black, lit areas look natural. All good I thought.
So my question is, what am I missing out on by doing this?
Is the GH1 capable of so much more? how?
for a photography newb, what settings would be best for low light?
This is from the GH1 Wiki....
The secret it to turn the dial to S mode (shutter priority). The shutter will show '30', which is the lowest possible for smooth video output. The ISO will still be stuck at ISO 1600, but if you use the wheel to adjust the exposure compensation all the way to maximum (+ 2EV) ISO 3200 is activated (it kicks in a few moments after pressing record, boosting sensitivity to light). The exposure compensation is shown at the bottom of the LCD by a dotted line with blocks that build to the left or right. You may have to press the wheel inwards to highlight the exposure compensation meter in yellow, before being able to adjust it by turning the wheel. I have a professional or semi professional video camera.
Could one of you explain the science behind this?
The reality is that it´s not clear this "trick" to increase the ISO. The explanation is confusing.
At least I cant do that, or I not understand what it means.
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From what I've read so far in the thread, the settings you need to note are
1600ISO
Creative Movie Mode
Lens cap on with Max aperture
EVF and LCD both off (they'll do nothing to help a sensor "burn in" and you'll just stress them otherwise)
I have to say, I'm fascinated by the idea of it as my GH1 is showing a fair bit of banding towards the higher ISOs... and I could not help but go pig-eyed at the idea of clean 1250 ISO.
I'll post my results when they're done; I've just started a burn in today.