Hot Pixel on 60D

Canon will map them out if you're still under warranty, they repair the camera with their pixel remapping diagnostic software.

The dead pixel is still there, it just uses the colour info from nearby ones, simulating the dead pixel as working.
 
Before you send it in, put the camera in a MANUAL sensor clean mode with body cap on the body instead of the lens. Let it run for two to five minutes then turn the camera off (power switch). Shoot stills and video under the same conditions you did where you noticed the dead pixel so you can see if the problem has been cured.

During the manual sensor clean (with body cap on, (YOU'RE NOT STICKING A SENSOR SWAB DOWN IN THERE!), the mirror stays up and the shutter open, but the body cap is keeping all light from reaching the sensor) the camera does limited remapping/reset of malfunctioning or "stuck" pixels.

Canon techs will try this first thing if you send the camera in, so you may as well try it.

I had a "stuck" pixel on my 7D, showed as "HOT" white. Taking the lens off, replacing it with body cap, and putting the camera in a manual sensor clean cycle cured it.

Use a full charged battery to do this. I often do this with all cameras prior to a shoot, just in case there is a "stuck" pixel I just hadn't noticed
 
What Bruce said.

I'd like to add that in my experience, it helps to run the camera in live-view mode for a few minutes before you put it into manual cleaning mode.

This fix works but it must be done the right way (let the sensor warm up by running in live view).

The method that worked for me:

1. New battery in camera
2. Run camera in live view for five minutes
3. turn off camera and remove lens/attach lens cap and viewfinder cap.
4. turn on camera, and enable manual cleaning mode.
5. Leave camera alone for 5 minutes, preferably in a dark place (cabinet or shoebox) this is to eliminate any possible light leakage onto sensor.
6. Turn off camera.
7. Turn on camera, hot photosites should not be visible any longer.



Good luck!
 
Even though I can't truly quantify its effectiveness, I let the camera "warm up" because I've noticed the hot pixels become more visible the longer I stay in live view. I'm assuming that the more visible the hot pixels are, the easier it is for the camera to detect them and map them out when in manual cleaning mode.
 
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