VideoMaker
Well-known member
Can you describe the technique you use for manual focus on moving subjects? I've tried this with my 150 but haven't had much luck.
HMC150-how is the autofocus?
- Thread starter Jeffyr
- Start date
Can you describe the technique you use for manual focus on moving subjects? I've tried this with my 150 but haven't had much luck.
Mike Harvey
Veteran
Practice... that's about the only way really. And if you're on tripod, investing in a good zoom remote helps a lot as it frees up a hand.
I have a zoom remote with a foucs in it. Comes in real handy when it's cold out and the damn focus ring on the camera gets sticky.
VideoMaker
Well-known member
Mike, I have a remote focus controller I use on a tripod. But I have trouble seeing the white outline in EVF Detail, especially when outdoors. Are you using an external monitor? Adjusting focus via the footage readout? Using EVF Detail? I understand the need to practice but would appreciate hearing what technique is working best for other folks.
you and i both need to get a 'hoodman' lcd cover for outdoor shoots!
i've found that with focusing using the detail function i've just had to learn how to recognize when the image appears sharpest. i can't actually see the artificial outline, its more subtle in practice, creating a little extra appearance of sharpness when in-focus that might otherwise be too hard to see on the so-so lcd that Panny gives us.
the only time this really becomes a problem, is if my subject is moving to/from the camera and i have to pull focus....then i have to rely more on staying in the ballpark and reading the distance in ft.
the other instance is when i can't see my lcd well in bright light, but there are hoods to cover that and i can always look into the evf.
one thing i've discovered, is that the small 1/3" sensor and its longer depth of field are actually a good thing, letting me get away with being 'close enough' in focus to get the shot. in fact, i've found that its better to just guess using the distance reading than to either leave it on Auto or infinity, even when the subject is very far away!
and if you're doing any documentary or run-n-gun shoots where there are no second takes, you're better off having the focus be off by only a foot or two technically, than leaving it to chance or Auto.
i've found that with focusing using the detail function i've just had to learn how to recognize when the image appears sharpest. i can't actually see the artificial outline, its more subtle in practice, creating a little extra appearance of sharpness when in-focus that might otherwise be too hard to see on the so-so lcd that Panny gives us.
the only time this really becomes a problem, is if my subject is moving to/from the camera and i have to pull focus....then i have to rely more on staying in the ballpark and reading the distance in ft.
the other instance is when i can't see my lcd well in bright light, but there are hoods to cover that and i can always look into the evf.
one thing i've discovered, is that the small 1/3" sensor and its longer depth of field are actually a good thing, letting me get away with being 'close enough' in focus to get the shot. in fact, i've found that its better to just guess using the distance reading than to either leave it on Auto or infinity, even when the subject is very far away!
and if you're doing any documentary or run-n-gun shoots where there are no second takes, you're better off having the focus be off by only a foot or two technically, than leaving it to chance or Auto.