Help Choosing Film..

Loki

Loki

Veteran
I don't know too much about the different film stocks from Kodak, but I won 4 rolls of 400' of film way back in Feb, and I want to claim it now, but I need to choose the stock I want.

I would like to get a Colour Negative stock with a lower ISO rating, something with a low speed so I can get a decent exposure with as little light as possible. Daylight balanced also.

Can someone explain how Kodak's naming system works? for example, what does this tell you about the stock:

KODAK VISION2 250D 5205 / 7205

?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Exactly. The 7205/5205 references Kodak's individual product name, but it doesn't tell you any of the film's characteristics.

For quick deciphering, "72xx" = 16mm, 52xx = 35mm. So 7245 is a 16mm stock, 5245 is the exact same stock in 35mm.

You said you wanted a lower ISO rating and a low speed "so I can get a decent exposure with as little light as possible." You do realize that you're making a contradictory statement? Low speed = needs more light. High speed = needs less light.

250 ISO needs twice as much light as 500 ISO. 100 ISO needs 8 times as much light as 800 ISO.

Faster speed = grainier footage. Lower speed = tight grain, a usually more pleasing picture, but needs more light.

640 ISO would deliver about as much sensitivity as a DVX in progressive mode.

Typically daylight films aren't all that "fast", because daylight is usually extremely bright. 50D or 100D is about all you usually see, though my favorite stock has been Vision 250D (but you'll almost always need ND filters in order to use it). Even 50D, in sunlight, will frequently require an F/8. 250D would need about F/22 in the same circumstances.

The "D" or "T" suffix references Daylight or Tungsten film balance, so 250D = daylight, 250T = tungsten. You can use an 85 filter to use tungsten film in daylgiht conditions, and you can use a daylight filter to use tungsten film in daylight conditions.

The only daylight films Kodak appears to be offering (in color negative) are 50D and 250D. For the best low-light performance you'd want the 250D. They also offer Ektachrome 100D reversal film, which has a supersaturated color palette.
 
Did you take time to research or did that just come out of your brain to your finger tips as your wrote that barry? Thats insane knowledge of that stuff.
 
Barry_Green said:
Exactly. The 7205/5205 references Kodak's individual product name, but it doesn't tell you any of the film's characteristics.

For quick deciphering, "72xx" = 16mm, 52xx = 35mm. So 7245 is a 16mm stock, 5245 is the exact same stock in 35mm.

You said you wanted a lower ISO rating and a low speed "so I can get a decent exposure with as little light as possible." You do realize that you're making a contradictory statement? Low speed = needs more light. High speed = needs less light.

250 ISO needs twice as much light as 500 ISO. 100 ISO needs 8 times as much light as 800 ISO.

Faster speed = grainier footage. Lower speed = tight grain, a usually more pleasing picture, but needs more light.

640 ISO would deliver about as much sensitivity as a DVX in progressive mode.

Typically daylight films aren't all that "fast", because daylight is usually extremely bright. 50D or 100D is about all you usually see, though my favorite stock has been Vision 250D (but you'll almost always need ND filters in order to use it). Even 50D, in sunlight, will frequently require an F/8. 250D would need about F/22 in the same circumstances.

The "D" or "T" suffix references Daylight or Tungsten film balance, so 250D = daylight, 250T = tungsten. You can use an 85 filter to use tungsten film in daylgiht conditions, and you can use a daylight filter to use tungsten film in daylight conditions.

The only daylight films Kodak appears to be offering (in color negative) are 50D and 250D. For the best low-light performance you'd want the 250D. They also offer Ektachrome 100D reversal film, which has a supersaturated color palette.
Click to expand...

I realized my typo after I posted my my second msg..

alas when I came back.. you had pointed it out for all to see and laugh at ...

*goes red

:thumbsup:

I have decided to go with the VISION2 250D 7205.
 
No Barry

"Let's play Global Thermal Nuclear War"

z3266_film_wargames.jpg
 
Oh i know he is already, but that info was just really specific to a brand of film and what not about their way of numbering and what not. nice
 
Barry_Green said:
Exactly. The 7205/5205 references Kodak's individual product name, but it doesn't tell you any of the film's characteristics.

For quick deciphering, "72xx" = 16mm, 52xx = 35mm. So 7245 is a 16mm stock, 5245 is the exact same stock in 35mm.

You said you wanted a lower ISO rating and a low speed "so I can get a decent exposure with as little light as possible." You do realize that you're making a contradictory statement? Low speed = needs more light. High speed = needs less light.

250 ISO needs twice as much light as 500 ISO. 100 ISO needs 8 times as much light as 800 ISO.

Faster speed = grainier footage. Lower speed = tight grain, a usually more pleasing picture, but needs more light.

640 ISO would deliver about as much sensitivity as a DVX in progressive mode.

Typically daylight films aren't all that "fast", because daylight is usually extremely bright. 50D or 100D is about all you usually see, though my favorite stock has been Vision 250D (but you'll almost always need ND filters in order to use it). Even 50D, in sunlight, will frequently require an F/8. 250D would need about F/22 in the same circumstances.

The "D" or "T" suffix references Daylight or Tungsten film balance, so 250D = daylight, 250T = tungsten. You can use an 85 filter to use tungsten film in daylgiht conditions, and you can use a daylight filter to use tungsten film in daylight conditions.

The only daylight films Kodak appears to be offering (in color negative) are 50D and 250D. For the best low-light performance you'd want the 250D. They also offer Ektachrome 100D reversal film, which has a supersaturated color palette.
Click to expand...

Wow. How do you do that? Magic?
 
You might really want to think about getting tungsten balanced stock as you will be able to use it in more conditions. If you are shooting in daylight situations, than a warming filter and its correction factor would reduce the amount of ND that would be required anyway.

If you are going to shoot 16/S16, then a go for the slower stocks as they will have much better grain characteristics (though your lighting budget will go up). Vision 2 200T (7217) is a very versatile choice.

If you are going to shoot 35, then go for a faster stock as its increased area will more than make up the difference in grain character of faster stock. This would reduce your lighting budget and still give you great results. Vision 2 500T (5218) would be a good choice.

If you are shooting 16mm, you need to consider the wind characteristics (for single perf) either A or B. There are a number of other considerations that you will need to understand to place your order properly.
 
I agree with khmuse, go with a Tungsten balanced film stock. If you get a daylight balanced stock and want to use it with tungsten lights, you'll have to use an 80A filter to compensate which typically blocks 2 stops of light. (without it the entire film would take a yellow-orangish cast from the tungsten light) Whereas with tungsten film, an 85B filter to color correct it to daylight blocks around 2/3 stop, and there is a lot more light available outside.
 
One other factor to consider is how much running time you expect from your 1600' of free film. (By the way, you are soooo lucky!)

1600' of 16/S16mm at 24 fps will give you just under 45 mins

1600' of 35mm 4 perf at 24 fps will give you 17 3/4 mins

1600' of 35mm 3 perf at 24 fps will give you 26 2/3 mins

1600' of 35mm 2 perf at 24 fps will give you 35 1/2 mins

If you are not going to go the optical print route, and you want a 1.85 or 2.35 aspect ratio, then try and shoot 3 or 2 perf (admittedly 2 perf is just now coming back into favor and would only support 2.35).

Have a blast!
 
khmuse said:
One other factor to consider is how much running time you expect from your 1600' of free film. (By the way, you are soooo lucky!)

1600' of 16/S16mm at 24 fps will give you just under 45 mins

1600' of 35mm 4 perf at 24 fps will give you 17 3/4 mins

1600' of 35mm 3 perf at 24 fps will give you 26 2/3 mins

1600' of 35mm 2 perf at 24 fps will give you 35 1/2 mins

If you are not going to go the optical print route, and you want a 1.85 or 2.35 aspect ratio, then try and shoot 3 or 2 perf (admittedly 2 perf is just now coming back into favor and would only support 2.35).

Have a blast!
Click to expand...

I picked up the film today. Aside from the guy at the warehouse being a prick.. it was neat.

now I have 4 lovely cans of 16mm film sitting in a bright yellow kodak box in my room.

As for your suggestion, I went with the daylight balanced stock cause I plan to shoot entirely out doors.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top