Well these seem a little soft to me, best focus I could get. Time to get inside the m2 and make some minor adjustments, definetely sounds as though there is a slight wobble. I will do the changes and post some more pics.
Grabs from M2....hmmm
- Thread starter Noel Evans
- Start date
Just cracked her open - big wobble. Time to fix.
For those wondering my focus on the static ground glass is perfect.
EDIT - made it worse. At least by doing so I now understand how to make it better.
For those wondering my focus on the static ground glass is perfect.
EDIT - made it worse. At least by doing so I now understand how to make it better.
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Jay Rodriguez
Coffee Member
Thay look pretty good though. Yes, they're a bit soft but I like the look. Let me finish my coffee and wake up a bit first lol.
AuditoryVisuals
Well-known member
Whoa! When these images were first loading I though they were under water.
Is the pine cone image shot at telephoto or wide angle? It's hard to tell since the DOF is so shallow.
Is the pine cone image shot at telephoto or wide angle? It's hard to tell since the DOF is so shallow.
Basically following what this guy did HERE and if you go down and see the fine pin adjustment pic; when he says it took him a few hours, believe me he wasnt lying. I gave up yesterday for other more pressing things, but back on it now - all up 90 mins so far - am close though. As much as the fine pin adjustments, you also need a bit of luck as you tighten that its going to be the one. Personally I think redrock should machine the hole the motor rod goes into a little more snug and it would be much easier.
Well Ive managed to get the wobble down from about 1.5mm to about 0.20 mm which has removed just about all detectable vibration I had in the unit before i.e. its much quiter. Hopefully its done the trick, Ill do a pull apart clean, reassembly then test it again.
EDIT: Adjusted motor too low, so back to pulling apart.
EDIT: Ok ready, now Im off to emulate the same shots I did yesterday and see what comes up.
Well Ive managed to get the wobble down from about 1.5mm to about 0.20 mm which has removed just about all detectable vibration I had in the unit before i.e. its much quiter. Hopefully its done the trick, Ill do a pull apart clean, reassembly then test it again.
EDIT: Adjusted motor too low, so back to pulling apart.
EDIT: Ok ready, now Im off to emulate the same shots I did yesterday and see what comes up.
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I know this shot has pretty bad light - Im not concerned, only worried about focus at this point. Which to me seems not quite there. Ive measured, checking on monitor. Expecting too much or ?
Pretty much same shot using A1 lense - correct measured focus. Same crappy lighting.
Pretty much same shot using A1 lense - correct measured focus. Same crappy lighting.
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Ok so I upgraded the lighting a little bit and then retook the shot with the same 50mm lense I have been using (pic 1) then changed to an 80mm (pic2) - now the 80 mm seems much sharper so I am wondering now if theres an issue with my 50.
pic 1
pic2
pic 1
pic2
Dennis Wood
DVXuser Sponsor
In the top right of your first grab posted (white flowers) you'll find a fair amount of blue fringing. It's something you'll need to watch for with the XH-A1.
Dennis Wood said:
Its pretty much the same with every shot I take with these lenses. With the 50 having issues its time for a lense upgrade anyway.
Well I had to run to escape the rain only minutes after stepping outside, but Im much happier with the way things are going with the m2 now.
Dennis Wood
DVXuser Sponsor
The blue fringe is coming from your XH-A1...likely your 50mm is OK. If you shoot some bare cam footage, you'll see it's coming from the camera. The adapter can make it worse...but being aware of when it occurs is a good idea if you've got some critical shooting to do.
There's something really strange going with the M2's bokeh rendition. You can see how the out of focus area looks like "turbulence". Something I have also wondered watching Marlon Torres's excellent footage. Anyone got a clue about this? Maybe it has something to do with the M2's achromat?
Here's one example:
Here's one example:
Jay Rodriguez
Coffee Member
Dennis Wood said:
Dennis,
Do you have any suggestions on how to avoid the blue fringing from happening?
marlontorres
Well-known member
Elton said:
Honestly, I don't mind it. If your audience is watching your movie and they notice and pick out stuff like that than you have some serious problems with your movie
Now if they're watching the movie and paying attention to the story and loving the visuals like they're suppose to be, who cares if the bokeh has radial edged blurs :0
marlontorres
Well-known member
The radial stuff on the bokeh isn't so bad in mine. See below. It's there but not as bad as badlaa's... maybe a little more tweaking on the M2 will fix it. Or higher quality lenses?
HDkilledFILM.
Burnin' down the House
I agree, the LENS is what needs to be corrected 9 times out of 10 with any adapter. Most nikon lens' have a softening around the edges when shooting at their most wide aperture. Just try and hit the sweet spot (typically f4-f5.6) for both the actual camera's lens and the lens you put on the adapter.
HDkilledFILM. said:
Thanks Ill give that a try as well.