Good battery-powered nighttime lighting solution

They are not battle tested so I wouldn't advise to use them in a project like this one, but I'm building LED fresnels that get the same light output as a 500W tungsten fresnel, drawing a bit less than 100W of power. They use CREE CRI 93+ LEDs, and optical-grade glass (it's not a fresnel lens actually, but it does the same function). They weight 500g each (one pound), plus about as much for the adapter, which sits on the ground (I wanted to make the fresnel itself as small and light as possible). They have absolutely no flicker at any frequency I have tested (at least up to 1/2000s). My aim is to sell these at around $400 each.

Two downsides:
They have a slow-moving, almost-silent fan (for me it's no problem at all, but for others it might be).
If you like your gear to be able to withstand rough use, they are not for you: they are made of ABS plastic, and I already broke one in a 1.5m drop test (that's five feet) (it still works but the fan lost one blade and is unbalanced now; I can rapair it easily but for others it wouldn't be so simple).

Why I post this here: currently they need to be plugged, but I could make them work with batteries as well. A $100 LiPo battery that weights one kilo (2 pounds) and needs a $50 charger would keep one working for two hours. But I'd have to work on it to make sure everything is OK. Do you think it would be worth the effort?

Interesting to a degree, no question. Super affordable. However, no matter how affordable, it will miss the boat if it doesn't hit selling points - you'd be better off bumping the price up and hitting selling points. Battery power is the #1 requirement, IMHO. Because there are plenty of varying quality fresnel/par LEDs that are AC powered already, though usually for a lot of $. What most of us want is battery powered LED fresnels. That is a key differentiating requirement. However, it is not the only one. The second one, sadly, is output. It would be great if this pushed out the equivalent of 1K tungsten fresnel, rather than 500W. If you had something like that - battery operated, 1K equivalent, dimmable, flicker-free, around 95 CRI, and sold it for under $800, I think you'd have buyers line up around the block. Also, by battery powered, I don't mean lugging a battery that's the size of a small car and that costs as much. Basically, what the OP needs - the ability to shoot night exteriors with battery powered LEDs.
 
What the OP needs to do is talk to Toby at Gear/MP&E or Keith at Austin Movie Gear. They'll help him get set up with whatever he needs.
 
Interesting to a degree, no question. Super affordable. However, no matter how affordable, it will miss the boat if it doesn't hit selling points - you'd be better off bumping the price up and hitting selling points. Battery power is the #1 requirement, IMHO. Because there are plenty of varying quality fresnel/par LEDs that are AC powered already, though usually for a lot of $. What most of us want is battery powered LED fresnels. That is a key differentiating requirement. However, it is not the only one. The second one, sadly, is output. It would be great if this pushed out the equivalent of 1K tungsten fresnel, rather than 500W. If you had something like that - battery operated, 1K equivalent, dimmable, flicker-free, around 95 CRI, and sold it for under $800, I think you'd have buyers line up around the block. Also, by battery powered, I don't mean lugging a battery that's the size of a small car and that costs as much. Basically, what the OP needs - the ability to shoot night exteriors with battery powered LEDs.

Thanks a lot. Main issue: higher power LEDs are less efficient (more power use) and require a different power unit than what I'm currently using, making everything more complex and expensive. These things are about the size and weight of a stills flash, so I don't think having two together will be a big issue. In any case I do have a 130W LED at home that might come close to 1K tungsten, but I haven't played with it yet.
To avoid hijacking the thread, we can go on with PMs.
 
A little 2.5-3kw portable gennie only costs $50/day to rent. So there's really no sensible reason not to have at least one of them on a night exterior shoot. Lets you run a 2kw blondie and some LEDs/Kinos, or a 1.2/1.8kw HMI and an LED or two.

It also lets you charge your batteries, and have a kettle to keep the tea and coffee flowing on-set (which is hugely important on night shoots).
 
Thanks for all the feedback here, guys.

Someone on the thread above asked what ISO I'd be shooting with. 850 is always desirable, but we frequently go up to 1600 or even a little higher with the C100 in low-light situations.

I've got an experienced DP for this shoot, and the both of us are on pretty good terms with the guys at Gear and Austin Movie Gear here in Austin. They have many of the options discussed above. We plan extensive location scouting beforehand, but the run-n-gun nature of this project is going to require mostly quick, simplified setups.
 
Charles sometimes I think you get a little remote from the world on the ground.

I try not to post from an ivory tower, i.e. suggest that everyone should have big crews and lots of gear. The package I suggested was three small heads and about $75 of grip gear. I would be able to manage that with one extra pair of hands if I had to. Yes, it's possible to use less and it's possible to use homemade lights and that's great. I've done all of the low-rent versions of shooting myself, lighting with hardware store units and old Lowel-lights etc. and if that's all you have, that's all you can do. But once you've used better gear, you know how much more flexible and faster it is to have the right tools. As David Jones pointed out, renting was on the table so why wouldn't I approach it from that standpoint.

The bigger picture of the point I was trying to make is that it's very hard to recommend a lighting package without knowing the budget, the style of the shoot, the logistics, the size of crew, and the expectations involved. That's why I wrote that sticky.

I don't really know how crowd-sourcing this sort of information works, anyway. How do you know whose advice to take?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top