glidecam hd1000 or 2000

cane

Well-known member
Anybody can give me a advice.. ???

Stuck between the two choices above
I'm using canon 60d not planning to push anything on the rig only the camera and a lens
Mine heaviest lens is tokina 11-16mm weight canon 60d and tokina total is 1.3 kg

I 'm interested in your experience not the theory about the glidecam specifications...

Which is best way to go for me according to balancing etc etc ......
 
Well from what I've read (including Cheesycam's review of them) stabilizers work best when they're loaded up and closer to their maximum weight capacity. If you were to put the minimum weight on the HD2000 for example you might find it hard to balance and may not perform as expected. If you almost maxed out the HD1000 instead you may find it performing better than its bigger brother.
 
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I had the glidecam (non hd revision) 4000 w/ a dvx on it. I always found it performed better with a weight closer to being maxed out. So if you don't plan on buying a newer / heavier cam, I would go with the 1000 series
 
I'm not sure why the posts above say the Glidecam works best maxed out, it's just not right.
The 1000 is too light considering the better suited 2000. As far as weight, you can max the weight out, but you'll just be holding up extra weight for absolutely no benefit. A 60D with a lens like the Tonika will perform fine on the 2000, and you need to keep in mind that at some point in the future you'll probably add a mic so this is where the 2000 gives you more flexibility (plus if you change cameras you're still covered.
Balance is the ket to these rigs, and the last thing you want to do is run them loaded if you have no reason to. You'll get better control and much easier use keeping them on the lighter side. If you fly at max weight, you're doing it wrong, and the 1000 will put you too close to the limit.
Don't think the 1000 is a good choice, you'll regret it very quickly.
 
Thank you Pookie for your reply

Are saying this from your own experience with the hd 2000
Here is example that picket up from youtube that the low weight camera 550D have problems ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nip69Hkk6HQ
the 2000 For the future can it be useful to have more range in weight capacity but I'm little bit it to anxious to balance this things what I read about it...

I'm not sure why the posts above say the Glidecam works best maxed out, it's just not right.
The 1000 is too light considering the better suited 2000. As far as weight, you can max the weight out, but you'll just be holding up extra weight for absolutely no benefit. A 60D with a lens like the Tonika will perform fine on the 2000, and you need to keep in mind that at some point in the future you'll probably add a mic so this is where the 2000 gives you more flexibility (plus if you change cameras you're still covered.
Balance is the ket to these rigs, and the last thing you want to do is run them loaded if you have no reason to. You'll get better control and much easier use keeping them on the lighter side. If you fly at max weight, you're doing it wrong, and the 1000 will put you too close to the limit.
Don't think the 1000 is a good choice, you'll regret it very quickly.
 
the HD versions are much, much, much easier to balance, geto one of those if you can afford it
 
Ive got the 1000HD and a 550d and 7d. Sadly I dont have the tokina, but i use the kit lens for gliding (18-55).

I have to say that the kit lens and 550d straight onto the glidecam was hard to ballance and was very sensitive. After adding a little extra weight to the camera (quick release plate) it was a lot better. For this set up I use 4 out of the 8 supplied weights.

The 7d and kit lens with quick release plate all balances very nicely and I would like to say works better than my lighter camera. So I agree with boncrek and awbacon. For this set up I use 7 of the supplied weights.

But as with anything its all about practice. Steadicam operating is a craft in itself. Especially when you are multi-tasking keeping the focus distance

This might be obvious but whatever you choose, get a quick release plate with it!
 
Ive got the 1000HD and a 550d and 7d. Sadly I dont have the tokina, but i use the kit lens for gliding (18-55).

I have to say that the kit lens and 550d straight onto the glidecam was hard to ballance and was very sensitive. After adding a little extra weight to the camera (quick release plate) it was a lot better. For this set up I use 4 out of the 8 supplied weights.

The 7d and kit lens with quick release plate all balances very nicely and I would like to say works better than my lighter camera. So I agree with boncrek and awbacon. For this set up I use 7 of the supplied weights.

But as with anything its all about practice. Steadicam operating is a craft in itself. Especially when you are multi-tasking keeping the focus distance

This might be obvious but whatever you choose, get a quick release plate with it!

Ok let me calculate your set up
7D with battery = 860g
Quick release with sliding plate = 280g
kitlens 18-55 = 200g
TOTAL = 1340g

Mine setup without quick release Total 60d and tokina = 1315g
Do you think the quick release with sliding plate 280g total 1590g will still works with the HD1000 ????
 
Ok let me calculate your set up
7D with battery = 860g
Quick release with sliding plate = 280g
kitlens 18-55 = 200g
TOTAL = 1340g

Mine setup without quick release Total 60d and tokina = 1315g
Do you think the quick release with sliding plate 280g total 1590g will still works with the HD1000 ????

You'd be pushing the weight limit a bit.
The HD1000 is lighter than the HD2000 so if you do move up then just know that you'll have to be adding weights to the top to get it balanced.
You could try adding weights to the bottom of the HD1000 to cover that extra half pound on top but then you may just be better off with the HD2000.
Do you plan to upgrade your lens/camera configuaration at all? Since you're a little overweight already I'd just try adding more accessories to make it heavier and use the HD2000 for it.
Just know that it'll be overall heavier with the HD2000 than the HD1000 and so long takes will be more difficult.
 
You'd be pushing the weight limit a bit.
The HD1000 is lighter than the HD2000 so if you do move up then just know that you'll have to be adding weights to the top to get it balanced.
You could try adding weights to the bottom of the HD1000 to cover that extra half pound on top but then you may just be better off with the HD2000.
Do you plan to upgrade your lens/camera configuaration at all? Since you're a little overweight already I'd just try adding more accessories to make it heavier and use the HD2000 for it.
Just know that it'll be overall heavier with the HD2000 than the HD1000 and so long takes will be more difficult.

No I'm not planning for a upgrade lens/camera if I do it will be a second 60D and don't want the quick release.
So 60D and tokina will be the heaviest combo and that's less weight that I notice on most HD1000 with 7D and 5D users included cheesycam
I think the best way to go with this combo is the HD 1000
 
I 2nd the HD2000 - I used to use it with an ENG camera, but with a DSLR, it's even better. You will realize after you begin shooting that the glidecam is best when it weighs as little as possible overall. I too am confused about the "maxing out" concept - if you've ever shot with a glidecam handheld, thats the least optimum setup since you will tire out very fast. what matters for stability is attaining perfect balance ratio. increased stability relies on a farther spread between the camera and the weights - this is why the HD4000 is boss with a DSLR - its overall maximum length allows to maximize stability. The HD2000 is a good balance between performance and portability, which is why I picked it out.
 
Yeah pretty sweet! Glad you're happy.

a little tip i read on here about follow shots, if you get a pace of string between you and the actor, it apparently helps with maintaining the same distance... if the stings not in shot of course!

Also I find it extremely hard to focus with a wide open lens on my glidecam (lack of monitor is my excuse!) If you set the aperture at f8 or above you'll find it much easier. although i'l admit this isnt really possible at night like in your shot.
 
Yeah pretty sweet! Glad you're happy.

a little tip i read on here about follow shots, if you get a pace of string between you and the actor, it apparently helps with maintaining the same distance... if the stings not in shot of course!

Also I find it extremely hard to focus with a wide open lens on my glidecam (lack of monitor is my excuse!) If you set the aperture at f8 or above you'll find it much easier. although i'l admit this isnt really possible at night like in your shot.


Good advice with the string
I know about the aperture but I have no change to do that while we shooting by night and that's gone happen the next set's
 
Yeah pretty sweet! Glad you're happy.

a little tip i read on here about follow shots, if you get a pace of string between you and the actor, it apparently helps with maintaining the same distance... if the stings not in shot of course!

Also I find it extremely hard to focus with a wide open lens on my glidecam (lack of monitor is my excuse!) If you set the aperture at f8 or above you'll find it much easier. although i'l admit this isnt really possible at night like in your shot.


No offense implied at all, but I've never heard of anyone using a piece of string to gauge a distance, especially with a Steadicam. First, very unsafe, second, there's no way your going to shoot anything useful when you're having to keep your eye on a piece of string.

Sorry.
 
I have the HD-2000 and find it works very well with my 60D with a tamron 17-50 (medium/light weight zoom). When I put my GH1 with the 14-140 on it I need to use a longer screw to add 3 or 4 extra weight plates.

When i first got it I cursed not getting the HD-1000 (especially now I've sold my HMC150's) but having said that I dont know if with accessories the 60d would be too heavy for the HD-1000.
 
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