Glidecam HD 1000 - Need advice in finding balance

J

Jackyl224

New member
Hey all! Apologies if this is in the wrong sub forum, first off.

Secondly; I recently purchased a Glidecam HD 1000 to use with my Canon T2i and 50 mm lens. Well, whether the camera is just too light or what, I simply cannot balance this. my Roknon lens, on the contrary, is way too heavy for this glidecam.

I tried the drop test and my rig swings down at a fast pace, with enough momentum to swing sharply all the way to the other side. I am stumped, and wondering if I, as a film making newbie, bit off more than I could chew.

Thanks for your advice!

-J
 
How much does you'r setup(s) weigh ?

How long is the drop time in exactly ?

Do you use the counter weights to balance it ?

Glidecams are not as easy to setup and balance due to their gimbal isn't adjustable in height (up/down).
 
vainlord said:
How much does you'r setup(s) weigh ?

How long is the drop time in exactly ?

Do you use the counter weights to balance it ?

Glidecams are not as easy to setup and balance due to their gimbal isn't adjustable in height (up/down).
Click to expand...


1: 1 second, roughly.

2: Yes, two counter weights on either end.

3: 2 pounds or so. The lens is plastic and small.
 
Well if you have to fast of a drop time you need to adjust counterweights, not sure how much each weigh but if you only use on either end what do you end up with in terms of drop time ?

Another option would be to add a quick release mount like the manfrotto 577 to add weight on the top.
 
Last edited:
I still end up with very fast drop time, as well as the camera tipping and spinning all over the place.

and hm. I guess I'll have to look into that, too. Thanks
 
The problem with small cameras and smaller steadycams is that they are simply to lightweight.

I have the monomcam CF pro which is carbonfiber, and my camera setup weighs around 2.5kg. Still it wasn't after i added a Manfrotto 577 to my steadycam that i got it to handle really smooth.

Now i didn't add the Manfrotto due to weight issues, i simply wanted to be able to attach it quickly to the steadycam. But once i added it and balanced it i noticed a huge difference in handling. I got it balanced before, but now it's much more stable and smoother to operate. Sure it weighs quite a bit more now as i had to extend the center pole downward to counterbalance the extra weigh on top but it's well worth it. In the end i probably get a vest and a arm.

So lighter isn't always better, in this case it will work against you.

There are a couple of guides on youtube that both explain and show you how to balance it, if you haven't seen them here are two.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtiJSuiuEIc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hv296ivAfoY
 
Last edited:
Make the pole shorter, take weight out from the bottom, or add weight to the top. Until you get a slow drop time.

BTW a good way to add weight to the top is to add macro rails to help you balance the camera in the other two axis. Two may be overkill.
 
The locked gimbal is a PITA on the glidecams.

Macrorails are will move the camera in smaller increments then the glidecam, thus being more precise. I jus wished Manfrotto made a combined unit that wasn't so bulky, i'd be all over that. :-)
 
well, in this case he wants the bulk

on my flycam nano, I took away the original plates and screwed my macro rails directly above the pole (this won't work with all models, it depends on how the plates are attached to each other)
 
Last edited:
I don't think anyone wants bulk, weight sure. The again the oversized platforms of the Glidecam's is huge as well so the difference compared to that is marginal i suppose.
 
Hi,

1. one second is a bit too fast, it is a bit bottom heavy. It should be between 2-3 seconds.

2. OK, please note that you can also use the telescopic rods to balance: if it is top heavy you need to make the rod longer, if bottom heavy closi it a bit until you get the 2-3 seconds drop time.

3. Try to adjust it as I wrote at 1. and 2. I hope it'd work.

Cheerz,
Thwts

Jackyl224 said:
1: 1 second, roughly.

2: Yes, two counter weights on either end.

3: 2 pounds or so. The lens is plastic and small.
Click to expand...
 
As Samuel suggested.

1. Remove weight from the bottom
2. Add weight to the top with the camera
3. Shorten the distance between the lower weights and the gimbal.

One of, or a combo of all three with bring your drop time up to 2 secs or so. 3 seconds is too slow and requires you to control it at all times with your other hand.

On a side note, a 50mm lens is almost impossible to fly on a stabilizer with a crop cam like the T2i. It is an equivalent focal length of an 80mm portrait lens. You have to be an exceptional steadicam operator to even attempt it. There are only a few steadicam operators in the world capable of getting consistently good results at those longer focal lengths. You might get a few seconds here and there that are usable, but in general it is going to be the blair witch project with that lens.

After five years of building and shooting with stabilizers I will only go up to a 35mm equivalent and expect consistently good results. This means 24mm on your cam as the longest focal length I'd even try. 18mm would be much easier to learn with and actually give you results that you'll be pleased with.

Cheers,
Pete
 
Regarding drop time: look at all those kids with "how to setup your steadicam" youtube clips that show a drop test and count "ONETWOTHREE - there, three seconds!" When in reality they've gotten maybe just past one second.

Call up the stopwatch on your phone and learn to count seconds... generally "one-one-thousand, two-one-thousand..."

Without a decent drop time, your weights are acting like a pendulum and your camera will be all over the place. I have a Came carbon fiber unit, and the bottom has one washer one each side - not the supplied weights, either, but 3/4"-across hardware store washers. ONE on each side. And that's with a Manfrotto 577 added. I fine-tune it by adjusting overall length of the column. I get just shy of 3 seconds that way which works for me.

The Came has fore and aft and side to side adjustment knobs, which makes things easier and no tools are needed, that helps. A slow drop time with a light camera makes balance very delicate, a millimeter either way or adding a lens cap and it's off.

I also use a lightstand and a small level. I put the handle on the lightstand, and check to make sure the center post of the stand is level since you can't rest a level on the steadicam (and mine doesn't have a bubble). Eyeball level against the center post. Spin to check static balance, but just spin as fast as you'd ever pan the camera, doesn't need to be like you're going to drill a hole with the thing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top