I'm not even sure where to start. I can't seem to get my drop time to be around 2-3 seconds. I have it at like 1.5-2 seconds when I only have 2 weights in the back and 1 in the front, but then it doesn't seem to be stable enough when I move around (lots of pendulum effect).
Because shorter zoom lenses change in length by 50% or more, I have found it very difficult to use them successfully on my Glidecam 2000. I prefer to stick to short, prime lenses: Nikkor 10.5mm f/4, 28mm f/2.8, and 35mm f/2 in particular.
Check my prior post for more details & pix on my D90 glidecam rig:
I was re-reading Shaun's comments, and it's entirely possible that since I added an L-Bracket & quick release plate to the top of my glidecam rig, I therefore had enough weight to make balancing easier than if I was trying to balance a "naked" d90.
Technically, I have my D90 oriented the "wrong" way on the camera platform. However I found it much easier to balance that way, and it also didn't interfere with the quick release plate knob.
My experience with short zoom lenses is that after I'd balanced the rig for the lens at, say, 24mm, the rig would be out-of-balance when I zoomed the lens out to 120mm. When the lens is extended or retracted, the balance point shifts. While the same shift happens whenever lens elements are moved for focusing, the balance point is not moved nearly as much.
I've never tried to fly a longer zoom lens, such as the 70-200, but seeing as how the length of the lens does not change during zooming or focusing, I doubt that the same balance problems would be found. However, until Nikon releases a full-frame video DSLR, I doubt I'll ever have the desire to fly what would be, effectively, a 115-300mm zoom lens.
Guys, I've never tried to balance a DSLR on my glidecam cause I don't own one, but I use a DVX on one and balancing for me is simple and take around 3 to 5 mins.
Golden rule is that you MUST balance the rig the way its is going to be used. In otherwords,,, with a DSLR and a zoom lens, you will have to re balance the rig for every zoom position you wish to use. If you are balanced on the full long end of the lens and slide it back only a teeny 1mm, it will throw it out. Even if you rest a tissue on the end of the lens it will throw it out, glidecams are super sensitive, so balance the rig for your intended shot.
Also read the specs on the glidecam and i'm pretty sure theres a part where it says about how much min weight you need for a succesful balance,,, there's also a good video tute on you tube which explains in detail how to balance the rig.
Alright! Looks like I got it balanced with the 24-70 2.8, zoomed out at 24mm
Here's what it's looking like:
3 weights on the back (slid all the way back)
2 weights on the front
The camera is mounted on the 1st from the back, 2nd from left, hole on the quick release plate
The telescoping pole is in as short as it can go
The quick release plate is moved back almost all of the way
I'm getting a drop-time of about 2.5 seconds, and it is working like a charm!
Hope that helps ... now I'm going to see if I can balance the 50mm 1.4!
To be honest, before I got the glidecam I had no idea that it even rotated 360 degrees. I figured all rotation was done by physically rotating the operator! That's how much of a beginner I am! I also didn't realize that you're SUPPOSED to use your free hand to gently guide this thing.
I wish there was a video training series on Glidecam usage. I could really use it.