GH4 GH4: proper setup order for video shooting...

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wwjd

Well-known member
I'm not a great camera guy because I usually forget one of the steps in this list. I know nothing has to be SOLID / FIXED in stone, but what is the general checklist when setting up EACH SHOT for video? Here's a list I think is in order, but looking for other's input for corrections or changes.

The way I see it, a proper order affects things down the line that need adjusted. But, that COULD vary depending on the needed look and lighting.

Project level:
Resolution
Frame Rate (may be adjusted per shot, per the need for slo-mo etc)

CHECKLIST PER SHOT:
Shutter Speed - 180 angle or twice frame rate (1st because it affects the "look" you may want, thus light down the pipe)
Aperture - also affects light, and look, depending on lens and need
ISO - based on light coming in from the above two, as well as target native range of the camera
Scene Profile - depends on need: neutral, cine, whatever
White Balance - AFTER all that so you get a proper balance seen by the sensor
Focus - last before recording, always very important

Where does ND filter fit? Before ISO maybe?
Again, I realise there is no EXACT proper order, but I'm making a little checklist card so I stop forgetting parts.

Feedback?
 
ND filter is used if too much light is coming in at the desired fstop. You'd adjust it after ISO.
 
My checklist is something like this:

All camera settings start out with a base DCI 4K 24p 180 degrees for setting C3-1. C3-2 uses everything the same, but with 1080p and variable frame rate. When the GH5S comes, I will move these settings to C3-3 and set C3-2 to 4K 60p.

Strike: Just in case I'm running lights on batteries. My crew knows that if we're on mains, just to call out strike.
WB: I only white balance on each take if there is a high ambient mix. If I'm supplying the majority of the light, I do a manual white balance and store it in camera.
Shutter Angle: I start with 180, then I take a look to see if I see any banding or flickering in my shots from some cheap lights or a monitor. If so, I synchro scan accordingly.
Light Meter: Usually only done at the top of the scene if I supplying most of the light. I also take into account the blocking so I can determine how much focus pulling is needed. I use an Android DOF calculator to see what I have to work with. If outdoors, I adjust my meter ND settings to give me the desired aperture.
Aperture: Set according to light meter.
ND: Set if scene is outdoors.
False Color: I check where exposure is on the subject's faces and set ISO accordingly, trying to stay under ISO 1250. I mostly shoot V-Log or Cine-D, though that may change when I evaluate HLG.
Focus Set: Switch monitor from False Color to Punch In to set initial focus, then switch to peaking.
Sound: I most always shoot dual system sound, so I set levels for all mics at this time. This is usually done at the beginning of a scene, and left untouched. I run a safety track, so I run my levels hot (-8db).


Check False Color and adjust ISO: This is usually done at the top of the scene. I meter my subject with an external light meter
 
Great input you guys. Thanks!

estarky7 when you set aperture based on light meter, do you consider the "look" of the scene? Like having all in focus or getting out of focus background bokeh? Or is that a lens style choice? I thought it was part of designing the scene's look.
 
wwjd said:
Great input you guys. Thanks!

estarky7 when you set aperture based on light meter, do you consider the "look" of the scene? Like having all in focus or getting out of focus background bokeh? Or is that a lens style choice? I thought it was part of designing the scene's look.
Click to expand...

That's where I stated that I consider the blocking. The Sekonic L-478D allows you to select which parameter you'd like to dominate, so I'll use my Android app for DOF calculations and I'll set the aperture to that. Then I can use the sekonic to adjust ISO, shutter angle (which I rarely do) or see what ND is needed, by seeing how many stops I'm over exposed.
 
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