GH3 GH3 Settings for GH2 Users (with test pics)

dvbrother

Well-known member
If you are a GH2 user, there’s a high likelihood you shot on SMOOTH with Contrast at -2 and Sharpness at -2. These were the settings I used almost always with great success.
I acquired a GH3 a few months ago and, out of the box the imagery looks quite different than my GH2 on the above Smooth settings.

Let’s face it, some of us GH3 owners are not convinced that the GH3 can deliver the cinematic imagery the GH2 so successfully output. In my opinion, the current settings many people are using have demonstrated a rather “blah”, video-ish look.

This weekend, I finally endeavored to do some tests, with the goal of trying to replicate the sexy look of the GH2, without sacrificing the advantages the GH3 brings to the table. I think I succeeded.
The point of these tests was to confirm my own hunches about the look I like. They were meant for me, but I figured my tests and observations might be helpful to you, too, in understanding the differences between the GH2’s Film Modes and the GH3’s Photo Styles.

The most important findings are these:

CONTRAST

1. Almost all of the Photo Styles in the GH3 are flatter than the GH2’s Smooth -2 contrast, which was arguably as flat as the GH2 could get.
2. GH3 STANDARD and NATURAL at -5 Contrast are both way, way flatter than GH2 Smooth at -2.
3. The Photo Style that matches Smooth at -2 most closely on the GH3 is STANDARD with a Contrast of 0. That’s right. Zero.

This was the key for me. I personally like a healthy amount of contrast. Not insane amounts, but the Smooth -2 look was perfect for me. I never complained that I needed a flatter image. So I have now set my GH3 Photo Style to STANDARD with Contrast at 0 and …boom! The images now look much more like the sexy GH2 imagery I’ve grown to love.

SHARPNESS

-5 Sharpness on the GH3 is less than -2 on the GH2. In fact, I think setting the GH3 Sharpness to -2 is the same as -2 on the GH2.

GH2 CINEMA Film Mode

There are no Photo Styles on the GH3 that even come close to the GH2 Cinema setting, which had a curve that favored room in the highlights at the expense of shadows.
All GH3 Photostyles have curves that see deeper into the shadows than any Film Mode on the GH2.

NATURAL lifts the exposure of the entire image compared to STANDARD, but mostly in the shadows and midtones. This is probably the best setting for low light shooting.

Here’s something I learned about the SMOOTH setting on the GH2:
The colorimetry is weird and inaccurate! Blues and greens look nothing like they do in the real world. All other Film modes in the GH2 have more accurate colorimetry.

SATURATION

GH3 STANDARD Saturation at 0 is more saturated than GH2 Smooth Saturation at 0.
Based on these findings, here are my new favorite GH3 settings (for vintage lenses):

STANDARD
Contrast 0
Sharpness -3
Saturation -2
NR -5

Now, with Lumix lenses, I have a different setting. Compared to my old, Nikon prime set, the Lumix lenses are sharper, contrastier, warmer and more saturated. So here’s my GH3 settings for Lumix lenses:

STANDARD
Contrast -1
Sharpness -5
Saturation -3
NR -5
(I also adjust white balance to “cool off” the image to match my Nikons.)

Below are some stills from my tests. Please forgive the lack of quality, as I wasn’t originally planning to post any of these. I displayed the chart on my computer monitor, and set the exposure intentionally hot, so that the brightest white chip was one “click” below clipping. I intentionally set the focus a bit fuzzy to avoid moire from my computer monitor. I set my WB to Daylight, and there's an obvious WB difference between the original chart image and my footage. If you load these photos into Phtoshop or an NLE, you can view them with scopes and check out the gamma curve and saturation. They were shot in the 50mb/s 1080/24p mode. Shot on a Nikon 50mm at f2. 400 ISO.

There are many other tests I did to come to my conclusions. These photos are only one experiement I performed. The "real world" footage I shot outdoors I can't yet post because it's for a TV program that will air on PBS soon.

Enjoy!

chip_chart.jpg
GH2_Smooth_-2-2,0-2.jpg
STD 0-3-1-5.jpg
NAT 0-3-1-5.jpg
STD -5-3-1-5.jpg
NAT -5-3-1-5.jpg
 
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I always correct and grade my footage in post and I don't want to limit the GH3 in terms of the image it can capture, so my hacked GH2 has become my B-camera that I will adjust in post to match the GH3 as much as possible.

Later on this year I expect I will pick up a second GH3 body and then my GH2 will likely be the emergency back-up cam.

I am curious to see what happens with the GH3 once the high bit-rate patches are available for it. ( a new GH3 firmware patch is coming at the end of the month, so I expect to see GH3 patches by late Spring )
 
I always correct and grade my footage in post and I don't want to limit the GH3 in terms of the image it can capture, so my hacked GH2 has become my B-camera that I will adjust in post to match the GH3 as much as possible.
Fair enough. I think the color reproduction on the GH3 is more pleasing than the GH2. But setting the Contrast to -5, as many people are doing, seems too flat. If the goal is to grade in post, just make sure you are grading in a 32-bit environment to avoid banding and other artifacts that would otherwise result from grading 8-bit, 4:2:0 footage. I prefer to get the look "in camera" as much as possible, so that the need for grading is minimal. Neither approach is right or wrong. Just different.
 
the GH2’s Smooth -2 contrast, which was arguably as flat as the GH2 could get.

It actually isn't. The Cinema mode with Contrast set to 0 is the flatest the GH2 got, with fairly equal exposure from 0 to 100 IRE. All the other modes on the GH2 alter the curve.

Smooth might well have 'less contrast', but that's not the same as being flat exposure-wise.
 
It actually isn't. The Cinema mode with Contrast set to 0 is the flatest the GH2 got, with fairly equal exposure from 0 to 100 IRE. All the other modes on the GH2 alter the curve.

Smooth might well have 'less contrast', but that's not the same as being flat exposure-wise.
That is probably true, but many abandoned that profile for SMOOTH because CINEMA's curve created ugly blown highlights and ugly skin tones.
 
FCPX
Premiere Pro CS6
Adobe After Effects CS6
All these are 32-bit. Of course programs like Speedgrade and DaVinci Resolve are 32-bit.

FCP 7 is not.

Can you provide some footage that shows this problem happens in FCP7 and stops when graded in another program?
Thanks
 
Can you provide some footage that shows this problem happens in FCP7 and stops when graded in another program?
Thanks

I don't personally have any footage that illustrates this, but it is documented elsewhere. If you look up Shian Storm or ColorGHear, there are forums and videos that discuss this. The basic theory is that by placing 8-bit footage into a 32-bit float environment (like the programs I mentioned...of which FCP 7 is NOT) you have much more flexibility in grading because instead of 256 values per channel, you have millions. Here's a link that might provide some explanation:

http://blogs.adobe.com/VideoRoad/2010/06/understanding_color_processing.html

This video does a great job of explaining the advantage of 32-bit color correction:

http://www.lynda.com/home/Player.aspx?lpk4=30903
 
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Thx for the post, brother. Yours has been the first to do any kind of testing, regarding the best GH3 'flat' setting. I had been using Natural -4 -4 -1 -5 so will test with your Standard ones.
 
Thx for the post, brother. Yours has been the first to do any kind of testing, regarding the best GH3 'flat' setting. I had been using Natural -4 -4 -1 -5 so will test with your Standard ones.
Cool. Keep in mind these settings just reflect my personal taste, and my desire to get my look "in camera". If you like to have maximum flexibility for grading, then your Natural settings make sense.
 
Don't forget the new 'Slipstream 3' setting I released. Slipstream 3 contains the GH3 quantisation matrix set on all REC modes and at higher bitrates for the GH2 over its GH3 counterpart - and using superior 4x4 transform for the whole picture. Slipstream Settings are found over on personal-view.com under the Cluster X Series thread. Give your grade tests another shot. :-)
 
Thanks for the post. I've been having trouble getting nice skin tones on the gh3. when i try the dial everything thing down -5 skins just turns all pinky plastic fake baked in terrible looking. I could fix it in post but like you Id like to get it right in cam first. Saturation seemed to be the major culprit. right now I am trying standard -4 0 -1 -5. I will give your lumix lens settings a shot.

I have to say, as it stands so far i perfer the look of the gh2 over the gh3 at present. Its just somehow more organic. lets hope the hack and more playing with profiles will bring it up a notch.
 
Thank you for taking the time to test the profiles. My GH3 just arrived today and so far I have arrived at very similar settings just from playing around. Panny seems to have given us a bit more control over the settings, in particular with the contrast.

This weekend I plan on testing the noise patterns within NeatVideo.. I am shocked at how useable the high iso footage might be if I am in a bind..
 
I also like the gh2 footage over the gh3, Every comparison video I have watched, I pick gh2, even with less dynamic range, it looks more filmic to me. IDK, maybe it's the motion blur and the higher contrast my eyes seem to prefer.
 
Just shot an event yesterday in a variety of situations. Everything from daytime with beautiful weather to the most horrible indoor lighting I have ever experienced. I am absolutely in love with the GH3. I shot with these settings and have a feeling I will be staying close to this for the next few shoots. Everything really came out great...

Natural
Contrast -4
Sharpness 0
Saturation 0
NR -5

Really in love with this cam..
 
I shot some comparison tests using your settings compared to no enhancements, and compared to the original posters settings. The below settings were a bit bright for me but in a low light situation they'd be what I would use. They added about a stop to the shadows. Maybe a -3 sharpness would help me but it really is a matter of taste. I did the tests with the 14-140 lens which is already pretty sharp. All settings were 24p, 50/sec and ISO 400.

Natural
Contrast -4
Sharpness 0
Saturation 0
NR-5


http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9VGjPXMwmXo
 
Fascinating findings. I have a dumb question, anyone feel free to respond here.......Although I understand that taking "noise reduction" down to -5 retains more detail - because the in camera NR subdues the detail.......do you not also risk bring in noise that you may have to remove later on?
 
Fascinating findings. I have a dumb question, anyone feel free to respond here.......Although I understand that taking "noise reduction" down to -5 retains more detail - because the in camera NR subdues the detail.......do you not also risk bring in noise that you may have to remove later on?


Yes, this is true, but for many the thought is that a. The fine noise looks better than the mushy noise reduction footage. And b. If you want noise reduction you can do it in post and probably do it better with the neat video plugin or some other method.
 
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