GH-1 vs. t2i - bring it!!

Not to mention the GH1(3) hack puts an edge on the 7D anyways... I have yet to do it - but its on the to do list.

an edge? I'd say it's more of a sledgehammer:badputer:

....if you still haven't implemented the "13", I'd suggest taking a moment to do so, it's a completely different cam as far as I'm concerned

( GH-1,7D,T2i ):violent5:(GH-13) :D
 
That's why I said 'possibly'. :happy:

I'm just in the pre-purchase paranoia. I hope the new GH1 firmware is not hack-proof and it's just something that needs to be adjusted.
No reason to get paranoid, yet. People having problems with firmware upgrade seem very reluctant to use a very useful debugging tool: document with video the upgrade process, so those who completed it successfully can validate that proper procedures are being followed. I wonder why.
 
No reason to get paranoid, yet. People having problems with firmware upgrade seem very reluctant to use a very useful debugging tool: document with video the upgrade process, so those who completed it successfully can validate that proper procedures are being followed. I wonder why.

Well... Let's see how things go from now on.

:embarasse
 
Thanks guys...

But possibly Panasonic is preventing new cameras from being hacked with newer firmware from factory: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=215987&page=3

This is such a bummer.

But hopefully just a matter of hack things again.

r.e. the new GH1 not hackable? I'm not buying it.

I bought a GH1 from B&H less then 2 weeks ago and it hacked fine. I'm not commenting on an individual situation, but some guys try to do the hack just before bed or in some other way carelessly... then after making some minor mistake start trying a dozen things over and over until they're totally lost and make statements like "I'm not sure if I checked this or that or what number I put in"...

I agree with the advice to video tape the whole process. That's a good idea.

Now, regarding the t2i and GH1?

I'll definitely be using them together, and will report and post comparisons of video between the two. The reason I'm adding a t2i to the GH1 (instead of getting a second GH1) is because the Canons are as far ahead in photography as the GH1 is in video. When I was trying to decide whether to keep the 7D or not, people kept saying that if I shot 50/50 video/stills, then just keep the 7D. I understand why they said that now... the GH13 (so far) is an awesome video camera with stills capability, rather then the other way around.

For my big hands the GH1 is awkwardly tiny. Until I get it on a mount I'll probably use it on sticks 95% of the time. Even though the t2i is much smaller then the 7D, it handles well IMO. I wish the GH1 had the ergonomics of the t2i but of course with the articulating screen.

Finally, r.e. the "t2i vs. gh13", while the GH1 is killing it for normal video... that banding is as distracting in low light as moire on a news anchor's jacket. I shot w/ the 20mm 1.7 @ 1600 iso and still got significant banding in crap light... switching to 800 iso just made it too dark altogether.

If you don't HAVE to shoot in stupidly low light and you aren't that big into stills... then it's a no-brainer... add another GH1.
 
I agree. I am disappointed in the photos of the gh1, I sold my 7d to get it and now need to get another photo camera maybe the t2i or a d5000
 
To get the best stills out of the GH1

To get the best stills out of the GH1

Shoot raw, learn Lightroom(3) and CS4/5 P'shop and life is very good! I see nothing particularly impressive about the Canon APS-C stills, FF(5DMK2) yes, but APS-C? I'm amazed your seeing big difference, must be down to glass?
 
I'll definitely be using them together, and will report and post comparisons of video between the two. The reason I'm adding a t2i to the GH1 (instead of getting a second GH1) is because the Canons are as far ahead in photography as the GH1 is in video. When I was trying to decide whether to keep the 7D or not, people kept saying that if I shot 50/50 video/stills, then just keep the 7D. I understand why they said that now... the GH13 (so far) is an awesome video camera with stills capability, rather then the other way around.
I mostly shoot stills. Believe it or not I got GH1 primarily to shoot stills. To me it offered the best value among the smallest interchangeable lens camera system. [Small] size weighed heavily in my decision-making, because I do a lot of climbing. Shot with a friends 7D. Yeah, it can do bursts faster, but if I need to capture an "action sequence" might as well switch a 1080p24 movie. Yeah, it has 2-3 stop ISO advantage, but in low light I will take break out the tripod anyway. The only real advantage Canons hold is in wider range of autofocus lens available. Hopefully that will change. Perhaps there are other advantages Canons hold as well, but I am not a good enough photographer to appreciate them. In which case in GH1 I got exactly the kind of tool I need ;)
 
It's just the total package of it as a stills cam. For me it's a combo of the ergonomics plus compatibility with an assortment of L-glass that I have access to... (which is a major factor that won't apply to everybody)... but also shutter lag, shot to shot speed, total MP for enlargements, etc. (all of which are 50% better/more/faster in the t2i).

Let's not turn this into a t2i vs. gh1 debate however... I'm only talking about the t2i as a STILLS cam with video capability, rather then the other way around... and the OP is asking if it's reasonable to add a t2i to his kit, rather then a second GH1... and in my opinion, that's reasonable for the low-light, plus improved stills capability... and ergonomics for shooting stills.

I agree the GH1 is the best over-all value however... as I'll have to buy a 17-55 2.8 for the t2i to make it do what I need it to do. There's no comparison on value. The GH1 takes it hands down.
 
Yea it might be down to glass, I had a Tamron 28-75 on my 7D and it was sharp, I am also missing the 50 1.8 equivalent on the GH1, that Panasonic 45mm 2.8 is too pricey. I have been getting FD glass but manual focus for photos is a pain, can't tell if I got good focus until I download onto my computer.

I have been tinkering with RAW but it slows up the processor a lot trying to shoot multiple pictures. I probably need to take less pictures and focus on getting better shots instead.
 
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Mu experience after doing a handheld test today with a hacked Gh1 with 20mm FD lenses and my 7d sigma 20mm is that the Gh1 is more sensitive to rolling shutter than the canons. Having done lots of shooting on my canons without seeing the kind of rolling that the GH1 exhibits makes me stay with the canons.

Not trying to start any battle on brands. Theres alot to like on the gh1 like that wonderful histogram.
 
I'll offer a non-expert opinion.

I purchased both camera kits and returned the T2i. I made the decision with unhacked GH1 firmware.

I have a collection of non L FD glass and found that adapting to EF was an optical nightmare. The differences between what the viewfinder displayed and the still were too much for my limited experience and "live view" produced huge delays. The 12min time limit makes the T2i unacceptable as a video camera substitute. The kit lens on the T2i is underwhelming and makes more noise than a Harley. Even if you replaced the lens with something comparable to the GH1's kit lens you'd have to babysit.

All that said, If I was to buy a second camera I'd get a T2i. The ergonomics and weight of the T2i make it a pleasure to use. If I needed to shoot handheld the T2i would be my first choice despite the GH1s articulated LCD. The T2i's ability to output video over HDMI while recording is also a huge advantage. Finally, there is so much more glass available for the EOS mount.

If you aren't a pro that requires redundancy a T2i as a second camera is an excellent choice.
 
My experience after doing a handheld test today with a hacked Gh1 with 20mm FD lenses and my 7d sigma 20mm is that the Gh1 is more sensitive to rolling shutter than the canons.
Does the effective FOV affect occurrence or visibility of rolling shutter? 20mm lens on GH1 is far different from 20mm lens on 7D. It's 40mm FOV vs. 32mm FOV. I don't know if the effectively narrower angle on GH1 might make rolling shutter more noticeable, but whenever doing a comparison like this it makes sense to remove as many variables as possible.
 
Does the effective FOV affect occurrence or visibility of rolling shutter? 20mm lens on GH1 is far different from 20mm lens on 7D. It's 40mm FOV vs. 32mm FOV. I don't know if the effectively narrower angle on GH1 might make rolling shutter more noticeable, but whenever doing a comparison like this it makes sense to remove as many variables as possible.

You are correct: longer effective focal lengths do exaggerate the effect.
 
I considered the t2i as it was one of the few other cams in my price range but after testing it out the gh1 was just superior in every way but I still couldn't pull the trigger but then when the hack came out it was just over kill for me and gh1 clearly wins out so I went with it.
 
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