FX1 Film Look (NOT Z1)

Bad strobing, especially after a conversion from 60i to 24p, most often boils down to this:

You moved the camera too quickly.

If you want 24p, you need to treat the camera like it's shooting 24 frames per second. This means your pans need to be sloooooow, and even slower the longer of a zoom you use. Same goes for zooms or tilts or anything else that radically alters the perspective of the shot.

Yes, this even applies to footage you shoot in 60i. In 60i it'll look fine, because you're taking a picture 60 times per second, and the difference from one to another is slight, even if you're moving quickly.

However, 24p is 24 pictures per second, so the difference between pictures is more pronounced -- thus, you see a "strobe" effect.

When you convert from 60i to 24p, you're discarded 36 time references, 60% of your temporal resolution. You're going from pictures with slight differences to pictures with bigger differences. You'll see the strobe.

Getting a "film look" starts on the set and in the camera, not in post.
 
Thanks for that information David, it will help me. However, will it look any better if I de-interlace it like what myfriendimage said?
 
Well, any time you deinterlace, you're going to lose up to half your vertical resolution, so keep that in mind. It's more noticeable at some times than at others. Or, you may not notice at all.
 
myfriendimage said:
Yeah i notice when i shoot in 24cf or 60i I always pan and tilt slow, more cinematic

The camera techniques we've come to consider "cinematic" were developed in large part to bring out the best in 24fps shooting. If you're shooting like it's 24p, you're already ahead of the game.
 
In addition to panning slow, choreograph your shots so you'll always have someone or something in the center of the frame for the eye to focus on, so you don't notice the strobing background. You'll see this in movies like Casablanca, where a waiter passes by, and the camera follows the waiter to the next table instead of panning directly.
 
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