Bad strobing, especially after a conversion from 60i to 24p, most often boils down to this:
You moved the camera too quickly.
If you want 24p, you need to treat the camera like it's shooting 24 frames per second. This means your pans need to be sloooooow, and even slower the longer of a zoom you use. Same goes for zooms or tilts or anything else that radically alters the perspective of the shot.
Yes, this even applies to footage you shoot in 60i. In 60i it'll look fine, because you're taking a picture 60 times per second, and the difference from one to another is slight, even if you're moving quickly.
However, 24p is 24 pictures per second, so the difference between pictures is more pronounced -- thus, you see a "strobe" effect.
When you convert from 60i to 24p, you're discarded 36 time references, 60% of your temporal resolution. You're going from pictures with slight differences to pictures with bigger differences. You'll see the strobe.
Getting a "film look" starts on the set and in the camera, not in post.
You moved the camera too quickly.
If you want 24p, you need to treat the camera like it's shooting 24 frames per second. This means your pans need to be sloooooow, and even slower the longer of a zoom you use. Same goes for zooms or tilts or anything else that radically alters the perspective of the shot.
Yes, this even applies to footage you shoot in 60i. In 60i it'll look fine, because you're taking a picture 60 times per second, and the difference from one to another is slight, even if you're moving quickly.
However, 24p is 24 pictures per second, so the difference between pictures is more pronounced -- thus, you see a "strobe" effect.
When you convert from 60i to 24p, you're discarded 36 time references, 60% of your temporal resolution. You're going from pictures with slight differences to pictures with bigger differences. You'll see the strobe.
Getting a "film look" starts on the set and in the camera, not in post.