FS7: FS7 Handgrip MOD to ARRI Standard - now available

Some workbench photos. I fastened a Stub Clamp - an early product first announced and developed here on DVXuser in 2011.

IMG_5024.jpg

I re-tappped a rosette to a 1/4 thread and the just tightened it down to
a Clockarm. But you can attach a Stubclamp to any 15mm rod you want or already own. I sell rods cut to length if you want something specific.

IMG_5031.jpg

It works a charm. The Clockarm, or any rod attached this way, gives you palm up rotation and a lot more.

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Stubclamps are $55 and in stock now for handgrip conversions.

IMG_5030.jpg

The grip locks down to the rod with two allen screws. We did this for a reason, while it takes an extra minute - the two manual screws when tightened alternately, first one then the other, 3 or 4 times to get an even closing of the jaws creates a surface bite like nothing else. it will never budge. \

Then quick adjustments are almost instantaneous. A single twist of the rubber clamp (camera end of the rod) lets you fully adjust the palm up degree and trombone adjust (elbow extension/angle) Just like turning the water on/off in your sink - you're done. Literally that fast n easy.

But the real beauty is - with a converted hand grip you don't need a Clockarm. The Stub clamp works with any 15mm rod and gives you the palm up adjustment without anything else.

Stubclamps are in stock.
 
While that is close, I don't think the two hex screws would really work for me. Would need a quicker thumbscrew tighten/release option if I were mounting it directly on the 15mm rod. It would just make it too difficult to move the grip with any other accessories on the rods (follow focus, matte box, etc).

Although that is probably perfect for someone who wanted to use a clock arm!
 
Thanks for those photos Ryan- just looking at the sensible, workmanlike form lowers my blood pressure!

I can't give the FS7 back weight, or the length required to fit a human body- or a rackover eyepiece- BUT
starting right now, I can jailbreak the grip and let you all decide what makes sense for you. I worked with Sony
on this process. I showed them how it could be done. They really did very well but why did they fail to make their
smart grip standard? To me it's a respect issue. Please respect my preference to figure out how I work best. Thanks

(climbing off soapbox now)
 
Ryan

True dat! Setting up the camera with lots of feature/studio stuff is so tight! But Stubclamps aren't just for rigging with MB/FF - they excel on lightweight stub rods or any swing rod that is attached at the camera rosette. (My favorite method for handheld and light weight. )

We do provide a high quality thumbscrew option but TSs just dont provide the BITE that good old hex gives you. Stubclamps are two piece tho, so you don't have to remove other kit to take one on or off. Yeah? When working under the lens with MB, FF and Grip - it's just tough with tiny Plasticams. When you add a quick clamp lever into the equation it has a drawback as well. It's fast but it sticks out and interferes in another way.

You want a slow Rhode Island or a fast Texas ;-)

It's all based on application. When I designed Stubs there were many quick clamps out there. I wanted something tiny.
 
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Ryan,

I think so. Both your and Bern's photo show male studs w/o showing the other side. I would say yes, if the other side of both is female socket. Both need to be M6 or 1/4 ofcourse.
Looks like they peform the same task in a different shape.

This is an excellent mount for the converted FS7 grip. Good find.
 
I think this is what folks are wanting:

SMALLRIG-15mm-Rod-Clamp-with-ARRI-Rosette-1686_1.jpg


SMALLRIG-15mm-Rod-Clamp-with-ARRI-Rosette-1686_05.jpg

That would allow for tool-less repositioning.

My preference would be a cross over. That way the mount would not be able to torque out of position. 2 rods better than 1 for secure mounting.

As to right hand positioned directly under the lens, that is never a position I have desired. I grew up on beta cams and it was always right hand up next to the lens. Elbow against ribcage is a position we all end up using but elbow extend out laterally makes for the most stable camera. Your arm acts as a cantilever. When I was shooting REALLY long lens for sports and had to do everything possible to hold the shot steady for me the trick was right elbow extended out laterally- almost horizontal...and hold your breath.

This is my latest setup:

JPNOLAgrip.jpg

A benefit of this setup is that I can place the camera on the ground and it sits upright.
 
That looks like a nice clamp if it doesn't slip. Have you used this? I can tell you from long experience a Stubclamp will not slip - ever. Which is good when planning because if you want to keep your kit light and unobtrusive you can count on not needing a crossover piece. No need to use two rods with a Stub. I'm not suggesting it's better- it's just style and application. The Stub clamp is a good fit for someone who can take the time to fix two allen screws when they build the camera out- and actually want to fix it and forget it. I have had Stubs on the rails for months without adjusting. Also they are two piece - which can be a flat out life saver in the field. I don't mind having a hex wrench with me but for someone else that may be a deal breaker. Also if you are someone who likes alot of quick adjustment while shooting a Stub clamp would be a pain. Think of the Stub as the smallest, lightest and strongest clamp for all day positioning. That works for me - As I mentioned I shot alot of shows with an Aaton but I probably only changed the position of the grip a couple times a year, when I got bored and started fiddling. As far has hand under the lens goes- I really like it. Did you find kit that allowed that position? Adam Wilt first made the suggestion to me that with modern form factor cameras they are similar to an old Scoopic camera which I had owned, so I exerimented and made the Dovetail plate because to me it was a critical improvement. My priority is elbow in, after that it's a toss up between palm up or fist under the lens. But it can't be both when you get under the lens you're wrist wants to return to straight. For those of you who have not tried under lens centrer positioning- experiment with a toolbox or a toaster oven- hold it up grabbed by the side and then hold it in same place supported from under center.

Just dont let anyone see you doing this. ;-)
 
JPNola... either the single rod clamp or bridge is what we are looking for, but I think the issue is the female-female rosette pairing between the brackets you posted and the modified grip.

I think what I may end up doing is using that Movcam Offset Rosette I posted a pic of to mount the grip to the rosette bridge I have. Should make the connection and allow for repositioning to make room for other accessories on the rails.
 
plasticam said:
FS7 Handgrips now can be reengineered to ARRI standard with stainless steel rosette and M6 internal threaded socket.

View attachment 110434
This opens up industry standard options for rigging according to your preference. Professionally machined in New Orleans. It's footprint free, we do not alter your grip and it may be returned to 'factory' should you ever want (why, is another matter ;-)

Two shooters contacted me last week to ask if I could do this. After looking at Ben Giles great original effort, I took off last week and engineered a simple strong solution. Send us your grip for 1 day, we will perform upgrade and return ship next day. One day turnaround. Price is $150 including return shipping, ground. The first one went out this week and parts are on hand for two more right now. Additional parts arriving next week, so if interested just email info@shootingmachine.net to set up your conversion.

Goodbye 'Sony only land'- hello WORLD!
Click to expand...

Does the grip retain its original rotation adjustability after this mod or does it have to be adjusted on a rosette?
 
original rotation remains unaffected. The conversion leaves no footprint on the factory grip.
Retaining the "release" function is nifty, it opens up some mounting options I'm playing with this wk end.
I'll have some new things to show tomorrow. but right now its Jamaican Grill with pimento wood night!!!
 
plasticam said:
That looks like a nice clamp if it doesn't slip. Have you used this? I can tell you from long experience a Stubclamp will not slip - ever. Which is good when planning because if you want to keep your kit light and unobtrusive you can count on not needing a crossover piece. No need to use two rods with a Stub. I'm not suggesting it's better- it's just style and application. The Stub clamp is a good fit for someone who can take the time to fix two allen screws when they build the camera out- and actually want to fix it and forget it. I have had Stubs on the rails for months without adjusting. Also they are two piece - which can be a flat out life saver in the field. I don't mind having a hex wrench with me but for someone else that may be a deal breaker. Also if you are someone who likes alot of quick adjustment while shooting a Stub clamp would be a pain. Think of the Stub as the smallest, lightest and strongest clamp for all day positioning. That works for me - As I mentioned I shot alot of shows with an Aaton but I probably only changed the position of the grip a couple times a year, when I got bored and started fiddling. As far has hand under the lens goes- I really like it. Did you find kit that allowed that position? Adam Wilt first made the suggestion to me that with modern form factor cameras they are similar to an old Scoopic camera which I had owned, so I exerimented and made the Dovetail plate because to me it was a critical improvement. My priority is elbow in, after that it's a toss up between palm up or fist under the lens. But it can't be both when you get under the lens you're wrist wants to return to straight. For those of you who have not tried under lens centrer positioning- experiment with a toolbox or a toaster oven- hold it up grabbed by the side and then hold it in same place supported from under center.

Just dont let anyone see you doing this. ;-)
Click to expand...


Stubclamp may not slip, but the rods can. They shouldn't, but they can and sometimes do. A crossover removes any chance of the grip rotating out of position. ( admittedly, it also limits the positioning of any grip since the rosette is in a fixed position. ) With my pictured setup I also get a grip for the left hand. The sphere fits into the palm of my left hand allowing my fingers to ride focus, zoom, and iris. In my shooting I need to reposition the grip often. With my 12mm wide I have to move the grip rearward so that the grip or my knuckles are not in frame. I then re-position the grip further out on the rails for my zoom lenses. Your recommended under-lens position would likely eliminate any need for repositioning of the grip for wide angle lens. But it introduces having to remove the grip to store the camera in a camera case, no? And are you able to place the camera on the ground, standing upright, with an under-lens grip position?

Dunno why but I like my right hand on the same horizontal plane as the center of the cameras mass. I find that it prevents the camera body from roll...from losing horizontal level. The hand position is similar to that used often by cinema camera operators who grab the sides of the matte box. I prefer when left and right hand can share the load of the rig and right hand isn't having to deal with all the load alone. ( carpal diem )

Another advantage of the setup in the photo of my rig is that there is no having to break the camera down to put the camera in the camera case. Take camera out, power camera up, shoot. No mounting of any grip necessary. The DISadvantage of my setup- one that dispenses with the Sony grip - is that I lose all the controls on the grip. That wasn't a biggie until the software update that allows repositioning of the focus mag box. The ONLY means of moving the box is the lil' joystick nubbin' on the control grip. Having to hit REC with my left hand wasn't a deal breaker for me and neither was having to adjust electronic iris with my left hand. That steppy electronic iris change is so unacceptable that I was avoiding iris changes in-shot on my electronic-iris glass in all but dire situations.

There is no right or wrong here- we are just sharing ideas and personal preferences and what a lovely thing that is, no?

Really thrilled with the progress you have made on this grip situation, Caleb! And your openness to such immediate critique of your design is commendable. If you have something that will allow me to mount the Sony grip on a female ARRI rosette I am definitely interested in purchasing one from you. I'll even buy you an Abita Amber to boot.
 
Came across another potential solution for mounting the converted Grip to a single rail.

Cool-Lux Rod Rosette Female M6 looks good, & conforms to ARRI standard, but like the others lacks a Male Thread. However on their Walnut Grip they show a similar rod adapter with a Male thread, but it's unclear whether it uses ARRI Rosettes, though appears it might. I've emailed asking if it does, & if so would they sell just that piece, perhaps calling it Rod Rosette Male M6.

Since the FS7 Grip's swivel point is higher than most others I like that Cool-Lux's adapter offsets the rosette so the connection could be placed higher too.

v4430y.jpg

http://store.cool-lux.com/collections/accessories/products/rod-rosette-female-m6

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http://store.cool-lux.com/collections/accessories/products/walnut-grip
 
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Bern, Nice find. Just send this (or any) clamp to me with grip and I'll cut an M6 stud to length and West System epoxy it into the socket. Done
 
Prototyped all weekend. Now have a working 15mm rod clamp for FS7 handgrips after conversion- photos below. This should solve the attachment problem for a lot of people. I can have 5 ready this week.

A Male M6 rosette stud should be taking shape in a couple days. See below.

1. Here is a Stubclamp with stainless steel knurled thumbscrews.

IMG_5068.jpg

And here is a disc machined to Sony spec.

IMG_5088.jpg IMG_5089.jpg
So that solves the 15mm rod option - bam, no tools required. This is the perfect way to attach to our Clockarm. Or any rod bracket you already have.

Now with a Stubclamp you can pop the top off (that nifty 2 piece design showing it's stuff again!) and expose a threaded socket.

IMG_5092.jpg
We're getting close to a universal mount- not bad.

IMG_5095.jpg

Tomorrow I'm getting to work on a method to rotate the stud so it clamps down and meshes with a standard M6 rosette normally.

We got a jailbreak going here!
 
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Could you post a couple of photos of your solution on a rigged up fs7?. I'm having a hard time figuring out whether the ergonomics of the conversion would work for me.

Thanks
 
Thanks Ben. You pioneered this, I was just contacted and asked to join in the fun. It;s absolutley pernicious the way Sony has locked in these screws. I've done 3 now and good god the screws are not red or blue locktite, the threads are white and I suspect it's epoxy. Ben if you got that off with a screwdriver - well that's amazing. So far I have extracted only one screw with a driver. Not one grip, one screw. The entire battle is removal - once you release the bad smoke, it's all good. I just dont understand the thinking behind epoxing screws at such a critical attachment point. I could sound like Bush 1 and say 'critical juncture' ;-)
 
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