FS-100 Picture Profiles

Hmmm, haven't seen any posterization yet in my footage. I shot all day yesterday and looked through it all, but I don't think I had too much sky in any of the shots. I am shooting with cinematone2 at the moment.
 
I like the look of, Point 90%, Slope +5

when I use Point 90% and slope +5, the image looks to have higher contrast than the Auto setting
when I use Point 75% and slope +1, the image looks to have less contrast than the Auto setting and preserves some highlights

test it and check it out if you can
 
Ive been getting great low contrast with amazing information in shadows and highlights using these setting. Allowing for great grades!!

Black Level +15
Gamma Cinematone 1
Black Gamma -range: middle -Level: +7
Knee -mode: manual -manual set: Point 75.0% -Slope: -3
Color Mode Cinematone 2 -Level: 8
Color Level -4
 
Ive been getting great low contrast with amazing information in shadows and highlights using these setting. Allowing for great grades!!

Black Level +15
Gamma Cinematone 1
Black Gamma -range: middle -Level: +7
Knee -mode: manual -manual set: Point 75.0% -Slope: -3
Color Mode Cinematone 2 -Level: 8
Color Level -4

I tried this setting but it looks quite ugly to me. The highlights just blend into the high mid-tones. It looks posterized..
 
I need to setup a static scene with multi colored highlights, skin tones, a wide DR, and some nice shadow detail. (Plus lots of colors) and tune some more. I am very happy with what I am using, but I want to make sure I get the most. :)
 
I tried this setting but it looks quite ugly to me. The highlights just blend into the high mid-tones. It looks posterized..

I see what your saying with the Highs going into the mids.. Turning the point up some to 90 with slope at +3 is keeping the highlights where they need to be. Besides that so far im liking the milky look im getting from it.
 
I tried this setting but it looks quite ugly to me. The highlights just blend into the high mid-tones. It looks posterized..

I tried your setting of Knee Point 90% and +5 slope, but that blows out highlights more than the auto that I get zebras on a light reflected off a wall whereas the auto mode does not
then I tried 90% and -1 slope and it brought it to almost identical settings as the auto mode

if no one is really sure which setting is best, I'll stick with auto for now and trust Sony until someone has a scientific method to figure this out
 
I received some questions about the profiles I used for my test footage.
Here it goes:


I used mainly two profiles

1.

Black level +5
Gamma:Cinematone 1
Black Gamma: Middle/Level +7
Knee: 105/Slope -5
Colormode Cinematone 1 / Level 8
Everything else set to zero

2. What I call "Experimental Technicolor Profile"

Black level +10
Gama Cinematone1
Black Gamma: Low/ +7
Knee 105/Slope 0
Colormode Cinematone 2, Level 8
Color Level +7
Color Depth R-7/G-7/B-7/C+7/M+7/Y+7
Detail Level-7

Frank
 
Thanks for your settings Frank
I was also wondering do you think the onboard LCD is more accurate and closer to what you see on your computer screen or the TVlogic?
I can't seem to distinguish, but it seems the TVlogic shows more dynamic range and I've tried to adjust the TVlogic settings to match the onboard LCD using the color bars, but it's not working so I left everything at 0.
 
I don't think the onboard LCD has a huge dynamic range myself. I can see this when highlights blow. They look different on my smallHD and of course on the computer.
 
I tested the Auto Knee setting outdoors with some ND filters today and noticed that my Zebras (set to 100+) were automatically being balanced and zeroed out by the Auto Knee setting
If I use Manual Knee setting outdoors, it's very easy to blow out the sky and highlights, but the Auto setting seems to be doing a great job at toning down the highlights when needed
I could literally open up the aperture all the way on my lens and still not get 100+ zebras because the auto setting was preventing 100+
 
It seems to be totally dynamic and doesn't lock while recording. If I change the gain from low to medium or high, I can see the 100+ zebras disappearing within a second or two, but it's not noticeable on my TVlogic which has no zebras. If you were to keep the camera rather still, there probably would be no auto adjustments while recording, but if you're moving around a lot with the camera, it may be noticeable. The manual knee settings should be adjusted according to each scene every single time because there is no 'universal' manual knee setting that will just work on every kind of environment.
The Auto Knee actually does a great job in terms of adapting easily to different lighting situations.
 
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That still scares me. I'd be afraid as the image changed, I'd see changes in something that wouldn't be static else wise. I shoot with my Knee at 95% and 0 at the moment. I did this pointing at a blown out screen. It's possible I just don't worry as much, but I've been happy with it. I know others don't like my knee setting, but I just let my eyes decide. That said, I've only shot at 0dB and used ND so I've not used any other gains yet.
 
Wow Abel Cine's new update says
"We came up with some impressive results, but decided to do some more tests with the full production version of the camera. The ISO ratings stayed the same but I found that the production version of the camera actually had improved dynamic range overall."

He got 11.5 STOPS from the sensor wtf...

I'm gonna try their settings
 
Wow Abel Cine's new update says
"We came up with some impressive results, but decided to do some more tests with the full production version of the camera. The ISO ratings stayed the same but I found that the production version of the camera actually had improved dynamic range overall."

He got 11.5 STOPS from the sensor wtf...

I'm gonna try their settings

Wow is right!
 
case closed I would say!

CineTone1 (Knee Point 90% / Slope +2) - period.

And they didn´t use black gamma which would give even more shadow detail...

I´m impressed!
 
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