first 5D vid with new firmware
- Thread starter Pirata
- Start date
BLUESPIDER
DVXuser Ninja
Yo, you need to bring that 5d of yours here to my neck of the woods. I like my d90 for stills but this camera sure looks delicious.
I'm now using Sonar like you now. I've used cakewalk back in the hay days but this new sonar has grown lots.
I'm now using Sonar like you now. I've used cakewalk back in the hay days but this new sonar has grown lots.
Pirata
Well-known member
haha yeah I bet you'd like that.
Cool, glad to hear your making music with Sonar again. Check out this piece I recorded recently that "somehow" got mistaken for the new metal gear solid 5 soundtrack
rogar-Evil(DBG): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkeH00S4HKs&fmt=22wilsonentertainment
Active member
That explains the lack of under exposure lattitude. I was just about to say there was no detail in the shadows. Have you shot at 800 ISO?
Forgive me if I'm mistaking, but your video seems crushed... everything is clipped, shadows have no detail. Should not be like this...
This is really difficult to "debug" by your processed video. Either you did that intentionally in your color process or you are doing something wrong in post. Have a look at your workflow and levels to make sure you are working in the proper range. If you are using Vegas you may have to adjust your levels from PC to studio RGB. I'm not exactly sure, I don't use that software.
If at all possible, you should not shoot at ISO 100. It has 3-4 times more noise than ISO 160.
ISO 100
ISO 160
Try not to deviate from the following ISO: 160, 320, 640, 1250, 2500
This is really difficult to "debug" by your processed video. Either you did that intentionally in your color process or you are doing something wrong in post. Have a look at your workflow and levels to make sure you are working in the proper range. If you are using Vegas you may have to adjust your levels from PC to studio RGB. I'm not exactly sure, I don't use that software.
If at all possible, you should not shoot at ISO 100. It has 3-4 times more noise than ISO 160.
ISO 100
ISO 160
Try not to deviate from the following ISO: 160, 320, 640, 1250, 2500
Pirata
Well-known member
Forgive me if I'm mistaking, but your video seems crushed... everything is clipped, shadows have no detail. Should not be like this...
This is really difficult to "debug" by your processed video. Either you did that intentionally in your color process or you are doing something wrong in post. Have a look at your workflow and levels to make sure you are working in the proper range. If you are using Vegas you may have to adjust your levels from PC to studio RGB. I'm not exactly sure, I don't use that software.
If at all possible, you should not shoot at ISO 100. It has 3-4 times more noise than ISO 160.
ISO 100
ISO 160
Try not to deviate from the following ISO: 160, 320, 640, 1250, 2500
Wow that's a huge difference, thanks for the tip! would using 160/320 be better over say ISO 200(being "standard" for lots of shooting)?
squig
Veteran
there's a thread in cinema 5D about the best ISO settings for low noise- http://cinema5d.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2879&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=20
Pirata
Well-known member
aha! makes perfect sense now thanks a lot!
This is the same for RED and the GH-1 and I suspect every camera that's ISO Selectable from here on out.
The best investment you can make now would be in ND filters and/or SLOW Zoom lenses or Primes for exterior daylight work. I myself would prefer a mix of both, but find some strong NDs cause these cameras just keep gettin' faster and faster... which is good for low/no light but starts hurting daylight.
Starting at an F4 Prime is a great way to control your light without compromising much and there are terrific, horrifically sharp "Slow" primes available and near-to-no cost. My favorite lens, hands down-- in my arsenal-- is the Contax Zeiss 28-70/3.4~5.6 Zoom. And it's still too fast for exterior daylight work without about a 1.2 ND build-up AND a Polarizer.
The other way to go is shutter speed if you can sac it.
The best investment you can make now would be in ND filters and/or SLOW Zoom lenses or Primes for exterior daylight work. I myself would prefer a mix of both, but find some strong NDs cause these cameras just keep gettin' faster and faster... which is good for low/no light but starts hurting daylight.
Starting at an F4 Prime is a great way to control your light without compromising much and there are terrific, horrifically sharp "Slow" primes available and near-to-no cost. My favorite lens, hands down-- in my arsenal-- is the Contax Zeiss 28-70/3.4~5.6 Zoom. And it's still too fast for exterior daylight work without about a 1.2 ND build-up AND a Polarizer.
The other way to go is shutter speed if you can sac it.
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