DavidChia
Well-known member
Hi all,
After reading so many forums and different section of this forum . I came out with bit and piece taken from everywhere.The result I think is pretty good . Only down fall is harddrive space.
But first I got to let everyone know what system I'm having, so the time varies with you system:
Power Mac dual 1.25, 2 Gig ram, Ati 9600 64mb,FCP studio (FCP5.1.4)
Yes it an oldie, but it still works for HDV editing. Note, I'm working in PAL land.
1 ) After editing your HDV sequence in FCP.
2) Export your sequence with "quicktime conversion" to an uncompressed 8-bit or 10-bit quicktime file.
Some of you might say there is no reason to transcode to SD 8 or 10 bit. Compressor will convert your HDV timeline straight to an SD mpeg2 file.
Yes you are right , but doing it that way will render your transitions/fx in FCP as HDV and add artifacts, While doing it uncompressed for the downconversion keeps that from happening.
This is the advice given straight from a fcp plugin developer who also works on the "RED" team.
You could alternatively change the sequence codec from HDV to uncompressed 8 or 10-bit or ProRes before you export (trash your hdv renders first also) as well.
3)set the parameters for 768 x 576 SD and check the box labeled "maintain aspect ratio 16:9"
You will end up with a Gorgeous downconverted SD version that looks every bit as good as the best hardware downconverters can do.
Althought when you open this file in Quicktime, it will play in a 4:3 format and not in 16:9 format . So it looks wierd. But it is o.k .See step 5
Someone did a test with a professional Sony SDI CRT monitor had compressor set for the highest quality downsizing settings and claims that it still does not look as good as doing it through quicktime conversion where HD to SD is concerned.( Which I too agree . You can test it yourself)
4) After making the 8bit or 10 bit file , you can then compress the 8 bit or 10 bit file in compressor with whatever the best setting you can do (based on how long it is) ,
But I skip step 4, because DVD Studio Pro takes the 8bit or 10bit file that I've created .( whichever is your liking, I found that both ways add up to the same rendering time, convert to Mpeg2 in compressor first or convert to Mpeg2 in DVD SP later)
Just remember to keep the bitrate below 9.2 in total (Video + Audio + subtitle), Why? because not all DVD player can handle high bit rate.And if it is too high, DVD SP won't be able to burn the DVD.For more info on Bitrate go here and read this : http://dvdcreation.digitalmedianet.com/articles/viewarticle.jsp?id=31809
5) Load the resulting assets into DVD Studio Pro, and make sure you set the track type to 16:9 to match the anamorphic footage.
If you want the footage side cropped when played on a 4:3 TV, choose 16:9 Pan-Scan, it will fill the screen, but loose the sides.
If you want the footage letterboxed when played on a 4:3 TV, choose 16:9 Letterbox.
If you want both, just click both option at the bottom.
Burn and test on a real TV with a real DVD player.
I hope it helps,
There are a few ways to do what I'm doing. It a matter of personal choice. But the result speaks of itself .
After reading so many forums and different section of this forum . I came out with bit and piece taken from everywhere.The result I think is pretty good . Only down fall is harddrive space.
But first I got to let everyone know what system I'm having, so the time varies with you system:
Power Mac dual 1.25, 2 Gig ram, Ati 9600 64mb,FCP studio (FCP5.1.4)
Yes it an oldie, but it still works for HDV editing. Note, I'm working in PAL land.
1 ) After editing your HDV sequence in FCP.
2) Export your sequence with "quicktime conversion" to an uncompressed 8-bit or 10-bit quicktime file.
Some of you might say there is no reason to transcode to SD 8 or 10 bit. Compressor will convert your HDV timeline straight to an SD mpeg2 file.
Yes you are right , but doing it that way will render your transitions/fx in FCP as HDV and add artifacts, While doing it uncompressed for the downconversion keeps that from happening.
This is the advice given straight from a fcp plugin developer who also works on the "RED" team.
You could alternatively change the sequence codec from HDV to uncompressed 8 or 10-bit or ProRes before you export (trash your hdv renders first also) as well.
3)set the parameters for 768 x 576 SD and check the box labeled "maintain aspect ratio 16:9"
You will end up with a Gorgeous downconverted SD version that looks every bit as good as the best hardware downconverters can do.
Althought when you open this file in Quicktime, it will play in a 4:3 format and not in 16:9 format . So it looks wierd. But it is o.k .See step 5
Someone did a test with a professional Sony SDI CRT monitor had compressor set for the highest quality downsizing settings and claims that it still does not look as good as doing it through quicktime conversion where HD to SD is concerned.( Which I too agree . You can test it yourself)
4) After making the 8bit or 10 bit file , you can then compress the 8 bit or 10 bit file in compressor with whatever the best setting you can do (based on how long it is) ,
But I skip step 4, because DVD Studio Pro takes the 8bit or 10bit file that I've created .( whichever is your liking, I found that both ways add up to the same rendering time, convert to Mpeg2 in compressor first or convert to Mpeg2 in DVD SP later)
Just remember to keep the bitrate below 9.2 in total (Video + Audio + subtitle), Why? because not all DVD player can handle high bit rate.And if it is too high, DVD SP won't be able to burn the DVD.For more info on Bitrate go here and read this : http://dvdcreation.digitalmedianet.com/articles/viewarticle.jsp?id=31809
5) Load the resulting assets into DVD Studio Pro, and make sure you set the track type to 16:9 to match the anamorphic footage.
If you want the footage side cropped when played on a 4:3 TV, choose 16:9 Pan-Scan, it will fill the screen, but loose the sides.
If you want the footage letterboxed when played on a 4:3 TV, choose 16:9 Letterbox.
If you want both, just click both option at the bottom.
Burn and test on a real TV with a real DVD player.
I hope it helps,
There are a few ways to do what I'm doing. It a matter of personal choice. But the result speaks of itself .
Last edited:
